Month: October 2015

The Retirees go Abroad – Cologne

There are only a few weeks before we go home and to make the most of our last few weeks we have decided to try a bus trip to Cologne in Germany with a trip down the Rhine River for a few days. Yes it may seem odd to travel by bus but it was cheaper by far than plane, train or automobile. So our adventure starts at 5.00am with the alarm going off so we can catch our bus 100m around the corner outside the job centre at Long Eaton. It is a foggy morning and bloody cold as well but there is our bus awaiting us. On board are the driver and a couple from Chesterfield who had to get up at 3.30 am to catch the bus.

It is a bloody boring drive to Stop 24 where we meet our tour bus (they collect everyone and sort them out at Stop 24). We bought some lunch as we thought we were there for an hour and a half but no sooner do I have the subway foot long than the call comes over the intercom – passengers for bus 24 your bus is ready for boarding.

Another boring bus ride then a ferry ride with P&O. We are used to My Ferry and it is a shock to see the difference on the P&O ferry – most disappointing. We are overnighting at Lille or so we are told but it turns out that we are staying at Neuville near the Belgian/France border. The accommodation is fine the meals are shit and the walk after dinner into the village was most interesting. Nothing is open – Its France on a Sunday – but it is a pleasant village with some unusual shrines which I expect are all small chapels giving thanks for peace. After all this is one of the deadliest battle zones of WW1.

The next morning we are promised we will be in Cologne by lunch – we forgot to ask what time is lunch. Breakfast is fine and I get to teach a few Poms how to tell the difference between a boiled egg and a fresh egg. The bus ride is painful with the old biddies in front unable to shut up and Barbara behind us snoring like a trooper.

We arrive at Cologne and the bus driver cannot find the boat. This is the second driver who did not have a clue about his destination. The previous driver could not find Northampton bus station. We find the boat at the end of a bike path – I would never have guessed that the driver would have to reverse his bus up a bike path to drop us off. Two o’clock is lunch time and the food is good so we look set for a decent feed at least once per day.

We have the afternoon in Cologne. We walk for about 30 minutes past some amazing buildings and bridges to cross the Rhine and make our way to the Cathedral but we never made it.

Michael on the cycle stopped us. I bumped into an Irish man who looked my age driving a pedal rickshaw offering guided tours of Cologne and the deal; was so good we took it on. I wanted to see how this old bastard was going to pedal us around Cologne. An electric bike is how. Oh well at least I knew I would not have to push.

He took us to the Cathedral. Michael told us that the Cathedral contained the bones of the three wise men who visited Jesus at his birth. Frederick Barbarossa had stolen them from Milan and built a Cathedral to house them and here they remain. They are contained in a golden shrine in the eastern end of the cathedral.

And then to a memorial to the 6 million Germans killed by the Nazis and then to view a railway bridge and pontificate on the financing of the Cathedral by a levy on boat traffic on the Rhine. Even though the levy was raised for 300 years it took 600 years to finish the Cathedral.

From there we went to see the flood levels of the Rhine in recent history, the new docklands where the old docks of Cologne had been gentrified as apartments. We then returned along the river front to Mick’s favourite Irish pub, the old square containing the medieval city hall (Rathaus) and the Jan and Greta memorial as well as some irreverent grotesques – one poking his tongue and the other baring her bum.We left Michael and returned to the Cathedral and this time went inside.

We decided that we would return to the boat as there are free drinks on tonight. Back at the boat we dine (the food is alright again) and then go to the bar with our dinner companions for a few drinks. Great afternoon and night. This bus tour may turn out alright!

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The Retirees go Abroad – Croatia – Opatija Riviera – Njivice on the island of Krk, Beli on the island of Cres

It is our last day on tour and we are travelling by boat to Njivice on the island of Krk. Krk is the largest island in Croatia and Njivice is the newest town developed on Krk and this is due to tourism. It is all cafes resorts and tourist shops but it also has a traditional beach if somewhat stony. Kerry and I took the opportunity to have a swim. The water is very refreshing and extremely clear. Unlike Icici you can walk into the water but it soon gets to depths of 20 to 25 feet. A 1/2 hour was enough to drive us back to shore to the sunshine and our towels.

Here are the photos of our trip over to Krk our boat and some of the other craft we encountered.

From Krk we travelled to Beli on the island of Cres. Unlike Njivice, Beli developed as a hilltop village and with tourism developed its harbour and the recreational activities that attract tourists. It is also a wildlife haven for the Cres Griffon Vulture although we did not encounter any. Unlike Njivice, Beli has a pebble beach but like Njivice very clear water. But this time we chose to visit the village on top of the hill and take in the stunning scenery. The road to Belli was about 1 kilometre long and most of it at an 18% gradient. Here are the photos.

Our day ended with a long trip home to pack ready for the bus back to Zagreb, Heathrow and then the drive to Long Eaton. I put my camera away until our tour to the Rhine and its wine region of Mosel.

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The Retirees go Abroad – Croatia – Opatija Riviera –Ičići

The next day the sky was clear and blue and the beach was beckoning. So we walked in the direction of Lovran along the coast but only made it to Icici (pronounced itchy key). Just past a large marina, Icici is a small village with a pebble beach and the more typical concrete platform. We hired two sun lounges and an umbrella and stretched out with our books. We are outside the summer season and it is Monday so very few people come to the beach and it remains peaceful. There is a gentle breeze and the sun is mild. Ultimately we work up the courage to jump in the sea -shit it was cold and with the tide coming in quite choppy. It is over 6′ deep even at the edge of the concrete beach so no standing around or lolling in the waves just constant treading water and swimming.

We dried off in the sun and then strolled up to the cafe where most of everything on the menu was “off” apart from the hamburgers and hotdogs. At least the beer was cold and the wine cheaper than Fanta. The wind picked up after lunch and the water became colder and choppier. By 4.00pm we decided to go home – 40 minutes walk along the coastline. A very pleasant day.

Here are some photos of the beach and the walk home.

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The Retirees go Abroad – Croatia – Opatija Riviera – Rijeka once again

The sun did not get up this morning. Rather a grey sky and blustery wind covered over the blue and bright sky of Croatia so our plans change. After enquiries we decide we will go to Krk which is the largest town on the island of the same name. Unfortunately our intel was rubbish and we arrived in Rijeka one hour before the next bus to Krk. The weather was still unfavourable and we did not want to sit at the bus station for another hour so we decided to walk into Rijeka and see a bit more of the town.

We called into Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes a huge church attached to yet another monastery but there was a service being performed so I thought it would be bad taste to start taking photos; particularly with the big crowd of believers there. We moved on to Square Trg and found Stendarac, a monument given to Rijeka by Emperor Maxamillan for its loyalty to Venice. Since 1700 the Square of Trg Riječkae rezolucijae Square has served as a playground for the children of the patricians, and this is where Stendarac is located, a stone flagpole/pillar used for the flag which was raised as instructed by the Emperor Maximilian in memory of the city’s loyalty during the Venetian occupation in 1508 and as confirmation of the political rights of the city. Originally it was located in front of the old City Hall on Koblerov trg Square, but over the years it has often changed its location. The pillar /flagpole, over 2 metres high is decorated with three inscriptions that date back to 1509, 1515 and 1766, as well as with a relief of St. Vitus holding a model of the city in his hand.

We strolled on to the markets past the train chugging down the main street, past the Ivan pl. Zajc Croatian National Theatre located by the main city market, close to the banks of the Rječina River and close to the port’s docks, on reclaimed land of the former army training ground known as Ürmeny Square.

The markets are made up of two purpose built two storey pavilions one full of butchers shops and the other full of fish mongers, smelly fish mongers.

Not much else to do so we caught a bus home and took a walk along the front. The sun made an appearance but the wind was doing its best to blow it away. Made it around to Hemingway’s cafe and found the Sea Kidd London tied up awaiting its clients. Had a burger, took some photos and went home. Oh by the way if you want to see more about the MV Sea Kidd London go to http://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-23357/seakid.htm.

We then took a walk home passing the visitors wall – graffiti depicting from Mahler to Luminere – see the photos below.

Home or the hotel at least we went to the pool read a book had a swim and then back to the room – a lazy day.

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The Retirees go Abroad – Croatia – Opatija Riviera – Rijeka and Trsat

Saturday morning and breakfast is still disappointing and unimaginative. So we quickly move onto the bus station and buy tickets to Rijeka. This is the principal sea port of Croatia and 3rd largest city of Croatia. We can see the high rise towers from our hotels balcony.

The bus trip takes about 30 mins and although air conditioned it is struggling with the heat of the day. Arriving at the bus station we have no idea of the layout of the city but very quickly we discover city history boards in 6 languages which direct us to the information office. Collecting a map of the city we plan to follow part of the old city trail and then go by bus to the hill top castle overlooking Rijeka at Trsat. This city has been fought over by the Venetians, Italians, Hungarians and the Romans because of its excellent harbour.

Our self-guided tour starts with a performance by local Marching teams performing in the mall. Next we move on and to the old city gate which has had the bell tower and clock added to it over time. Note the two headed eagle in the Hapsburg crest over the gate and then the two headed eagle (both heads looking in the same direction) for the city crest. This is how close the Hapsburgs are to Croatia. Passing through the gate we look for evidence of the city’s past and find images of the present, and remembrance of the past (an old olive press now a fountain). Finally we find all that remains of the old roman gate of the garrison from the late roman period. Behind this are the excavated ruins of the Roman garrison buildings and the garrison well.

St Fabians Chapel was built on top of the ruins in about the 8th century and some form of the chapel stand there today. It now faces a car park on rough ground in the midst of other demolished or partly demolished buildings. One of the buildings has become the canvas for some interesting graffiti. We then moved on to one of the most interesting churches we have encountered – a round chapel once part of a Jesuit monastery. The chapel of St Vitus also has a strange past and I have photographed the story and the icon for you to read.

We tried to visit the Palace of Justice without success and the St Mary Assumption Church and its leaning tower. From there we caught the bus to Trsat to see the old castle and have some lunch. We were dropped off from the bus straight into Our Lady of Trsat Church part of another monastery with a service taking place and being broadcast to the world. Pope John Paul visited the church and as a consequent a large bronze of the Pontiff squats in the fore ground of the church.

We found a restaurant and had lunch with a South American macaw. The bloody thing sat on the outside of its cage scratching and chatting to itself as we crunched away on our salads.

The temperature had risen to over 30 degrees so we tried to keep in the shade whilst finding the castle. It turned out to be close by. It is thought that the castle lies at the exact spot of an ancient Illyrian and Roman fortress. The Croatian noble Vuk Krsto Frankopan is buried in one of the churches. The Trsat castle was completely reconstructed and renovated in the 19th century when the mausoleum of the military commander Laval Nugent was built in its interior. The courtyard of the castle has now been turned into a restaurant and many tourists visit the place during the summer months. We had a good look around finding its fabulous views of the city and the hinterland particularly the amazing freeway across the valley. Kerry was starting to feel the heat so I finished exploring whilst she waited with a friend in the shade.

Leaving the castle behind we made our way to the bus stop (too hot to chance our hand at walking down the 750 steps to Rijeka) and then to the canal by the bus station to Opatija. The return trip was hot and noisy – there is no volume switch on some of the old women on the bus and everyone has to listen to their gossiping. On returning to the hotel I could not wait to get into the shower and then we both dozed for an hour before dinner after which we had a walk to the casino where we cleaned up winning 120 Kuna about 10 pounds. Content with having won enough money to buy lunch tomorrow we returned to the hotel to sleep.

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