THE RETIREES VISIT HOBART AND THE TAHUNE FOREST

Star Date 5th August 2024

We were staying in the Allurity Hotel in Bathurst St and had dined nearby. It was a regular school day for Lola and a working day for Paul, so we decided to look around for a breakfast joint. Photo #1 (looking left to right) is the view from our bedroom window – the building had been converted from its former use of an office building to a hotel, and it had an unusual arrangement for the shower and toilet, but the bed was comfortable, and we were close to the CBD.

At first we walked up Bathurst St in the direction we had gone the night before and were pleasantly surprised by some of the street art. Photo #4 is the hotel and photos #2, 5, 6, & 7 some of the street art. Photo 7 is in a narrow lane and getting a clear picture a challenge.

We found a cafe serving breakfast and then moved onto towards and into Salamanca Markets which were not open but it meant there were no crowds. We walked down Elizabeth St passed the Post Office – a 19th century styled building, and onto the Seafarers Centre and the Mission to Seafarers in the midst of Salamanca its Custom House, wharves and chandleries. A piece of history of sailing ship and sailors lost in many cities Photos 9, 10, & 11. What has helped preserve the history is the construction behind the historic buildings providing residences and work places photos 12, 13, & 14.

We found the site of the American Embassy from the times of the sailing ships in one of those lanes but apart from the plaque and the story it told there is nothing of the embassy.

As we made our way back to our hotel we walked through the park Franklin Square which we had passed by going to Salamanca. Who was it that is remembered by the statue in the park photos 15, & 16. The statue commemorates Sir John Franklin (1786-1847), Lieutenant Governor of Van Dieman’s land. Sir John Franklin was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of Van Dieman`s Land in 1837. Sir John established a State education system, founded the Tasmanian Natural History Society (which became the first scientific Royal Society to be established outside Britain) and subsidised the Tasmanian Journal of Natural History. During his period in office, Tasmania became the intellectual hub of the Australian colonies. There may be some doubt about that claim but that is what I found out on Monument Australia – https://monumentaustralia.org.au/.

After his Tasmanian appointment he conducted two significant polar explorations, the first in 1845 and the second in 1847 in his attempt to discover the North West Passage. The statue was intended to commemorate the governorship of Tasmania by the great Arctic navigator, Sir John Franklin.

In 1847, Franklin reminded the Admiralty of its promise that his having held a civil post should not debar him from further naval service. The Admiralty kept its word. At 59 he was too old for Arctic exploration and died on this expedition, in the HMS Erebus, which was beset in the ice-pack off the coast of King William’s Land, on 11 June 1847, in sight of the North-West Passage which he had first set out to find nearly thirty years before.  Franklin and 128 sailors aboard the HMS Erebus and HMS Terror perished in the Royal Navy’s worst polar expedition disaster.

We had a rest while waiting for Paul to call to take us to Lola’s performance. Lola attends Taroon State High School situated on picturesque Little Sandy Bay near Dixon’s Beach. You can see through the headlands at the mouth of the Derwent River and that means you look directly south to Antarctica and the winds from the south howl through – bloody cold. The programme was arranged so that each band played two numbers and whilst they were playing the next band was setting up at stage 2. The band sounded quite good and were roundly applauded by their school mates and thank god it was over quickly – we were not dressed for this weather. We left Lola Paul, her mum Emily and sister there to enjoy the celebrations that followed returning to the hotel. Paul and Lola would later pick us up for dinner.

Next morning we had booked a tour to take us to Tahune Forest on the Huon River.

Tasmania is known for towering trees. In fact, the second tallest tree in the world lives here (according to the Tasmanian Tourist Bureau and Tahune Adventures. So it’s no surprise that the Tasmanian government went through the trouble to build the Tahune Airwalk.

Built amongst the treetops in the Huon River Valley, the Tahune Airwalk takes you 50 metres above the forest floor. From here, you’ll be able to see across the verdant valleys that earn Tasmania the nickname ‘Apple Island.’

The morning did not start well with Kerry needing a day off. So on my lonesome I walked up the hill to the pick up missed the pickup but saved the day by a phone call to the operators of the tour – Tahune Adventures – http://www.tahuneadventures.com.au.

It was a small bus with some obvious tourists aboard like me with my camera around my neck who awaited the round trip to pick me up. We left Hobart traveling to Taroona (yes past the school I visited yesterday) hung a right turn and headed to Huonville and into Franklin. On the way I noticed a sign about a cafe in Franklin that raised a legal heckle on my neck – Osteria – cafe of petty sessions.

The phrase “petty sessions” in Australia, historically referred to a lower-level court that dealt with minor criminal offenses and civil matters, akin to what is now typically handled by Magistrates’ Courts. Petty Sessions courts primarily handled summary offenses—minor cases such as traffic violations, petty theft, or public order issues—where quick decisions were appropriate. These courts operated in a more informal setting than higher courts, with magistrates often presiding over cases without juries. The term “petty sessions” has largely fallen out of common use. So I was interested to check it out when we stopped in Franklin.

Franklin, is a small town in Tasmania’s Huon Valley, with a rich history tied closely to Tasmania’s maritime heritage, agriculture, and early settlement. Named after Lady Jane Franklin, the wife of Sir John Franklin (yes Sir John Franklin, the fellow immortalised by the statue in Franklin Square, who was the governor of Van Dieman’s Land (now Tasmania) from 1837 to 1843. Franklin was initially established as an agricultural and timber town in the 19th century.

With its riverfront location, Franklin is historically known for its wooden boat-building industry. The town’s rich maritime heritage continues today with the presence of the Wooden Boat Centre, a workshop and museum dedicated to traditional boat-building skills ( unfortunately closed this day). Franklin’s location along the Huon River made it a prime spot for riverboat transport. The riverboats played a critical role in transporting goods to and from Hobart and surrounding settlements, and the Huon River became a lifeline for local communities. Photos #1 & 2 (left to right below) picture the Cafe of petty sessions which Photo # 3 identifies as the former police station, court house, Gaol, and residence for the Franklin area. Photos #4 & 5 identify the water mill and the painting depicting an earlier time in Franklin’s history and alongside is one of the pub’s (suitably located across the road from the former court and police station). Finally photo 7 provides a view of the harbour on the Huon River. Our break was quickly over and we were on the road again to Geeveston where we took a right hand turn to follow the river into the hills and its headwaters.

We had chosen this tour to see Newdegate Cave and the Tahune Skywalk. On arriving at the tourist centre I learned about everything else that was available but this was a tour no changes permitted. Photos # 1 to 3 (viewed left to right) is the entrance to the carpark, and the Tourist Information Centre. Newdegate is one set of caves in the Hasting Caves area. Firstly we explored thermal hot spring Photo # 7 (yes the water runs into the swimming pool – not very natural), the picnic area, photos #4 to 6 (one of the smaller trees provides the centre pole) and the entrance to two short walks – photo #8. After killing time doing those things we started the march to the cave entrance.

Photos #9 to 12 are photos of the walk along with two feature notice poles which could not be read to to the weathering and photo #13 is the cave entrance. Photos #14 to 26 are all from the interior of the cave which was dry in the sense there was no stream running through it.

After completing the cave we returned to the Tour centre and took a different path to the Forest walk. Photos #27 to 30 show the lodge front and back then the bridge across the Huon River. Then the climb started until we go to the entrance to the Sky Bridge – photos #31 to 33. The walk is made up of a circuit and then a viewing platform over the Houn and Picton River conjunction – photos 34 to 42 and the final photo is the view back to the tourist centre. The journey concludes at a cantilever sitting high above the intersection of the Huon and Picton Rivers to give you breathtaking views. There’s no better way to experience the healthy natural abundance of the Tasmanian island.

We were offered the opportunity to take the long walk or short walk back to the bus. The long walk had the attraction of a swinging bridge whereas the short walk had the bus, so I took the short walk. Good thing too, the driver came with me while the rest went on the long walk so I could rest while the driver panicked when the group did not come back by the designated time. I offered to stay with the bus and after two abortive attempts to find them, the group turned up oblivious to the time – did I say they were Japanese & Korean? On the road again and it was lunch time – we were stopping at Kermandie Hotel Port Huon on the mouth of the Huon River.

Port Huon, a small town on the Huon River, has a rich history tied to its role as a key port and hub for the apple and timber industries. Located around 40 km southwest of Hobart, it developed in the 19th century, mainly to support the bustling timber trade and the apple industry, both crucial to Tasmania’s economy. During World War II, Port Huon played a role in military logistics. The Australian and U.S. navies used the nearby waters for strategic operations, and the port served as a repair and refueling station. In recent decades, the area around Port Huon has seen significant growth in the aquaculture industry, particularly salmon farming, which has become a major part of Tasmania’s economy. This industry now provides employment and supports the local economy.

Today, Port Huon is known for its scenic beauty, with views over the Huon River and surrounding hills, and draws visitors interested in Tasmania’s natural environment and local produce, especially apples and seafood. Its history as a port, agricultural hub, and center for timber and salmon farming remains an important part of its character.

We stopped at the Kermandie Hotel. Charming old building decorated with the history of French exploration. The notable French expeditions to the region were led by explorers such as Bruni d’Entrecasteaux and Nicolas Baudin. In 1792 and 1793, Rear Admiral Antoine Raymond Joseph de Bruni d’Entrecasteaux was sent by the French government to search for the lost expedition of fellow explorer Jean-François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse. While searching, d’Entrecasteaux charted much of Tasmania’s coastline.The Huon River and subsequently Port Huon were named after Vice-Admiral Jean-Michel Huon de Kermadec, one of the expedition’s officers.

Nicolas Baudin arrived in Tasmanian waters in 1802. This expedition also mapped various parts of Tasmania and was significant in gathering scientific data. The French naturalists and artists aboard Baudin’s ships, including François Péron and Charles-Alexandre Lesueur, extensively documented the plants, animals, and landscapes, leaving a rich archive of illustrations and descriptions. The expedition anchored in areas around the Huon Valley and the channel, further solidifying French influence on place names in the area.

The hotel carries this history on its walls. Although the exterior may disappoint the interior has a 19th century charm.

Loaded with all accounted for, we headed back the way we had come to the Tahune Forest. One beer and a meal meant nap time for me so whilst the others prattled on in their own languages, I spent a little time walking amongst the stars. Safely home I found Kerry rested in bed and restless to do something as usual. So, I took her for dinner.

Our time on tour over we flew back to Brisbane and planning for our next voyage off the beaten track.

December 2024

The Retirees in Tasmania – Hobart

Our family has become very dispersed – our youngest and his family having taken up residence in Hobart Tasmania. #HobartTasmania The Covid restrictions have prevented us from travelling particularly to visit our family so with a lessening of restrictions in November and December 2021, we returned to Hobart and Paul’s home.

Living below the summit of Mt Wellington (pictured above) they have a charming semi rural property with fabulous views but close proximity to Hobart and its surrounds. We stayed with them for a few days during which we took in the sites before visiting the north and north east of Tasmania.

One of the places we visited was the historic village of Richmond about 25 km north-east of Hobart, in the Coal River region. Richmond’s most famous landmark is the Richmond Bridge, built in 1823 to 1825, around the time of the town’s first settlement. It is Australia’s oldest bridge still in use. The town was initially part of the route between Hobart and Port Arthur. Present-day Richmond is best known as being preserved as it was at that time. It is a vibrant tourist town, with many of the sandstone structures still standing. But we had come with the intent to see the model village of Hobart Town circa 1820 – OLD HOBART TOWN.

At the end of a driveway off the main street is this model correct in every detail (or so they say) – minuature in scale it is like a picture of the town one hour of one day over 200 years ago. Individually handcrafted with passion by Andrew and John Quick over a three year period, the authentic model village has been reconstructed from original plans and it gives a unique glimpse into the tough life of Australia’s convict past. I was taken back by the detail which included an interpretation of life for the inhabitants the harshness of that life including executions on the gallows and flogging with a cat-of-nine-tails. The Hope and Anchor pub shown in the pictures below still exisits but I am not certain that it is the original building or in the original location.

We then strolled through Richmond seeking the historic bridge and some of the original sandstone buildings.

After returning to the car we travelled further into Coal River Valley and onto our lunch venue Coal River Farm. A family run business owned by Daniel and Melanie Leesong with an urge to celebrate Tasmania’s world class produce they opened the doors at Coal River Farm. They have developed a reputation for cheese and chocolate in the form of a high tea and that is what we were there for.

A modern building greets you set in a picutresque part of the valley and the building makes every attempt to allow you to observe your surrounds. Inside you pass a window onto the chocolate maker pouring his moulds and then are forced to walk past each and every kind of chocolate until you reach the dining room with its cheese fridge and choclate dispalys. The menu includes other fresh produce but we were there for cheese and chocolates. Delicious! Satisfied we went to return to our car and the trip home but our grandaughter Lola became sidetracked by a lonesome goat hungry for the greener grass outside his enclosure. After the goat became distracted by other visitors we escaped to the car and home.

The next few days were spent catching up with our family in Tassie before we headed north.

The Retirees on the Move Again – Tasmania in Ten – South Hobart Mt Wellington and Mt Pleasant

The journey into south Hobart was almost as winding as the trip to Queenstown. We followed a new moon into Hobart. Night made it difficult to spot the house but a vigorously waving Emily caught our attention. After a happy reunion we dine on impromptu pizzas with a bottle of red – very nice indeed.

Paul is our youngest son and Emily is his wife. They have two daughters Finney and Lola and live in a three – bedroom house almost at the pinnacle of Mt Wellington. As they live under Mt Wellington our first visit the next day Friday was to the summit of the mountain where we were whipped by very strong winds. Of course this is where I received a call on my mobile from a solicitor enquiring on one of my files. The wind was so strong and the reception terrible I had to confess to being on top of Mt Wellington. As I explored the old shelter Kerry was being blown away on the walkway below the new lookout shelter. We enjoyed a cup of coffee whilst watching everyone else sheltering from the wind. The drive back down was quite hairy.

Next we went to lunch at Frogmore Creek Winery. A friend of our daughter Carly, Shelly is managing the restaurant and cellar. Carly had strongly recommended we make time to visit and she was not wrong. Beautiful food, presented in an innovative way and not expensive with a view 2nd to none. We were looking at Mt Pleasant and the two radio telescope dishes operated by the University of Tasmania. It is home to three radio astronomy antennas and the Grote Reber Museum.

Frogmore wineries is made up of the Cambridge Vineyard and the Campania Vineyard. The Cambridge vineyard is situated on the base of the foothills at the end of the Coal River Valley, planted around Frogmore Creek Wines’ Cellar Door and the Restaurant overlooking the picturesque Barilla Bay. The Cambridge vineyard was first established between 1998-1999 and is the differentiated by a smaller diurnal variation than more inland vineyards (milder days and nights) – the moderating effect is from the proximity to the sea (Barilla Bay). We were impressed with the wines and joined their wine Club.

We ordered lunch and my curiosity made me google the Observatory to see if they did tours. They did but not today but I turned on my charm (??) and organised that after our first two courses we would do the tour and then come back for dessert. Which is what we did.

Grote Reber was the father of radio astronomy, being the first person to build a “big dish” antenna for the purpose of mapping the sky at radio frequencies. He discovered many discrete radio sources, and he mapped the band of bright radio emission from our Galaxy, the Milky Way.

Reber came to Tasmania in the late 1950s because of its unique location at high magnetic latitude in the southern hemisphere. He spent 40 years studying low frequency emissions with telescopes he built himself, first in partnership with the University of Tasmania School of Physics, and later on his own at Bothwell. His accomplishments are remarkable, not only in radio astronomy but also in electrical powered transport, in carbon dating of aboriginal settlements, and in the patterns made by growing bean plants. The museum has exhibits that show Reber’s telescopes, his life’s work, and his many other interests. A unique feature is Reber’s original radio shack, the control building for the radio telescope array at Bothwell, which is installed at the Museum with Reber’s original radio equipment in place.

The museum also shows the radio frequency spectrum with graphic illustrations and physical demonstrations of electromagnetic waves. The radio sky is shown, with matching illustrations of galaxies as seen in the radio and optical spectrum data acquired by the Hubble Space Telescope. A feature of the Museum is a Virtual Reality Theatre, provided by the Swinburne University of Technology. The museum will show entertaining and educational movies and demonstrations in three dimensions.

A feature for us was to visit the control room and see the atomic clock and learn of the impending visit by NASA in respect of the smaller of the two telescopes.

We then returned to desserts that were out of this world (very fitting I thought). After lunch we tried the wines at the wine tasting to finish off a most remarkable day.

 

Dinner that night at the Shipwrights Arms was not as wonderful as Frogmore but it was with the family and we all enjoyed it.

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