THE RETIREES VISIT THE SOUTH ISLAND ACROSS THE DITCH blog 495 Episode 1

19TH MAY TO 10TH JUNE 2026

Day 1   Flying on Virgin Air Lines for the first time since the change of ownership during Co-vid, Kerry and I arrive at Queenstown International Airport at the scheduled arrival time of 3.40 pm. We are traveling with Barry and Sandi, fellow retirees and cruise ship travellers and now partnering them in their adventure on the South Island. Barry had selected our hire car which was awaiting us off site. It had been a guess as to what space was needed for the four of us and our luggage, but we seemed to have guessed well. We pick up our Nissan X-Trail Hatchback, plan and load the luggage, and leave the car hire company with Barry in the driver’s seat, following his faithful Garmin GPS and drive to our Queenstown hotel, where we stay in Sherwood just down the road from the airport. We had booked into the Lodge in the hotel whilst Barry and Sandi had chosen a unit with a view of the lake.

our hotel and our room

Barry and Sandi had planned to catch up with their daughter Ruth but with no plans as to where they would dine. We were invited to join them, and plans were made to go to a local pizza restaurant. Local turned out to be the restaurant in the Holiday Inn Hotel next door to our hotel. Neither Kerry or I had met Ruth previously but she was delightful company. She is a young traveller mixing travel and study enjoying her nomad life. Dinner was fun and the meals were fine. Barry and Sandi will catch up with her again when their paths next cross.

Photos of, the sunrise and Lake Wakatipu.

Day 2 – Queenstown and Arrowtown

Our plans were fluid as to what we might find or do throughout the journey. After breakfast at the hotel, we drove to Arrowtown. Arrowtown is a historic gold mining town 20 minutes from Queenstown and located on the banks of the Arrow River. The town is popular because it preserves its 1860s gold-rush history while offering a vibrant, modern food and shopping scene. The town has stunning natural landscapes. The winter season had turned the trees which were covered with autumn foliage.

Arrowtown buildings and its surroundings,

A highlight and surprise for us was the Lakes District Museum. The museum provided an insight into the gold mining history of Queenstown. The museum had constructed a number of scenes as things might have been as well and telling its history.

Lakes District Museum.

Queenstown sits directly on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand’s longest lake (84 km) famous for its dramatic Z-shape, pristine water, and unique natural tide. Framed by the Remarkables mountain range, this alpine lake is the vibrant hub for Queenstown’s sightseeing, cruises, and water sports. So, after visiting Arrowtown Barry drove onto the docks where TSS Earnslaw Steamship is docked to catch the cruise boat RedNZ which would take us for a cruise to the Walter Peak High Country Farm. It was by then getting a bit late (sunset was around 5.00pm) so we did not hop off as we had a big drive to Te Anu and Milford Sound tomorrow.

TSS Earnslaw Steamship, the lake, the Walter Peak High Country Farm, RedNZ and the steamship again

Day 3   Queenstown to Te Anau

It is a 6-hour drive to Parklands Motel in Te Anau. On the way we had a stop at the Dome Café in Mossburn. Great coffee stop, on your travels to Te Anau or Milford/Doubtful Sound but not much in the village. Beside the café there is a business called Bracken Hall claiming to have the best venison pies in the South Island. Apart from that there was a new petrol station (one of those 24 hours self-serve unattended things very popular in NZ) and the original petrol station on the opposite side of the road looking more like Steptoe & Son yard and just dirty with vehicles to be repaired or beyond repair. After coffee and cake and a visit to the bathroom, we hit the road again. We were starting to see more sheep, more and more mountains and low cloud. Low cloud would be a feature of the scenery whenever approaching or in the mountains.

Mossburn on the road to Te Anu – Dome Café, Low cloud on the mountains, Sheep of course, Bracken Hall

We arrived in Te Anu around 1.30pm and the rooms were not ready. We took the opportunity to take a drive around the town, visit the Lake and the float plane dock and a short drive along the road toward Milford Sound as the rooms weren’t ready. We got as far as Lake Mistletoe where we found a park and the outside dunny in the form of a long drop. A map showing our position and the distance to Milford Sound caught our eye. The beach was all river stone and tee pees of driftwood had been erected probably by the park rangers. We had cut some sandwiches and carried boiling water in our flask so that we could have lunch overlooking the lake. We returned to the main road and found our way to Mistletoe walk. The track was a circuit, and we noticed an abundance of fungi/mushrooms and strange trees with extended limbs. As we approached the edge of Lake Mistletoe the scenery was very dramatic with mountains in the background, bird life abounding and unusual groundcovers.

Photos              Float plane docking, Lake Mistletoe, the long drop lunch at the lake, fungi, ground cover and bird life, Float planes at dock

We returned to Te Anu and our accommodation. We roamed the streets to find our evening repast – bottles of wine and snacks whilst we played cards (Skipbo). We arose early, had breakfast and were ready to move onto Milford Sound. This is when I took the morning photo of the Float planes at dock.

Float planes at dock

Day 4   Te Anau             The day was not promising the best weather so we decided that Kerry and I would cruise on Milford Sound. Barry and Sandi chose a walk in the Sound having enjoyed the cruise on a previous occasion. Milford Sound or Piopiotahi in Māori is a breathtaking fiord in New Zealand’s Fiordland National Park, renowned for its dramatic sheer cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and inky dark waters. Yes, a fiord – a valley carved by glacier. It was a long drive with Barry at the wheel. Dramatic scenery surrounded us. The mountains were astounding, shooting up like a forest all round. We encountered just 1 tunnel, and it was single lane as well. So, as you will see in the photos, we had to await our turn to pass through. When our turn came, I was able to photograph the interior passage. More mountains rose around us as we made our way to the Milford Sound dock with the vegetation changing to dense forest.

Dramatic mountains, tunnel, tunnel passage, more mountains,

Arriving at the dock there was a very modern quay and visitor complex with 9 vessels tied up awaiting the passengers for the day. We had a bit of a wait and moved along the wharf viewing all the vessels. I was particularly taken by Milford Mariner, part sail part cruising yacht. However, that was not our vessel – we boarded the Milford Monarch. The boat was not crowded at all. The biggest crowd was a bus tour. Our vessel was the last to sail. The photos will tell you what we saw. Kerry and I found the cruise disappointing – very little wildlife was visible and but for the evening showers overnight there would not have been any waterfalls.

Milford Mariner and Milford Monarch at the quayside, photos of the sound

Now I know the wildlife is not like a zoo but the promises of seeing Hector Dolphins, NZ fur Seals, Albatrosses and everything else was clearly just marketing. As explained by the staff “you’re here out of season”. We rejoined Barry and Sandi for the drive back to Te Anu, to hunt for dinner and play more Skipbo. During our hunt for dinner, we encountered one of the world’s smallest coffee venues. We all agreed that we would get our morning coffee there.

Day 5 Barry selecting his coffee, the coffee shop,

Episode 2 Our hunt for Invercargill follows. Keep reading to enjoy the whole safari.

The Retirees on the Move Again – Tasmania in Ten – West Coast Wilderness Railway

Watered and fed we returned to our caravan park, slept as best we could then showered in the freezing cold of the ablutions block the following morning, before boarding the Mt Lyell No 3 steam engine for a ride from Queenstown to Dubbil Barril. The West Coast Wilderness Railway is a reconstruction of the Mount Lyell Mining and Railway Company railway in Tasmania between Queenstown and Regatta Point, Strahan. The railway is significant because of its Abt system to conquer the mountainous terrain through rainforest, with original locomotives still operating on the railway today. Now operating as a tourist experience with a focus on sharing the history of the Tasmania’s West Coast, the original railway began operations in 1897 as the only link between Queenstown and the port of Strahan. The railway utilised the Abt rack and pinion system for steep sections and the gauge is 3 ft 6 in. The Abt system was devised by Roman Abt, a Swiss locomotive engineer.

A rack railway (also rack-and-pinion railway, cog railway) is a steep grade railway with a toothed rack rail, usually between the running rails. The trains are fitted with one or more cog wheels or pinions that mesh with this rack rail. This allows the trains to operate on steep grades above around 7 to 10%, which is the maximum for friction-based rail.

We stopped at various stations (now abandoned except for the tourists attending the trip), panned for gold at Lynchford, walked through a cold weather rain forest, and saw trestle bridges built by hand from forest timber, witnessed a hand operated turntable at Dubbil Barril and were feed every step of the way. The “guard” Thomas told us the story of the two Irish miners Crotty and Bowes Kelly (and co-opted two passengers into playing the parts) along the journey making some of the more boring parts entertaining.

We started with sparkling wine and salmon canapes before arriving at the gold town of Lynchford where we panned for a tiny speck of gold. Yes only one tiny speck was found. Here we saw the F O Henry sign above the shop door reminding us of the demount-able store we saw in a picture in the Hall at Lake Margaret and F O Henry went on to become one of Tasmania’s wealthiest men.

After panning for gold we had scones jam and cream before our next stop to take on water for the boiler after our engine had got to the top of the mountain. We got to see the rack and pinion system in operation.

After this stop we cruised down the mountain through the gorge amazed at the rugged country through which the railway had been built by manual labour and into Dubbil Barril where we strolled through a forest walk whilst the engineers turned the engine around for the trip back to Queenstown. The turntable is manual and lots of steam is expelled during the process and not just from the engine. On our return journey we snacked on salad wraps and hot chocolate. Thomas finished his tale of the rivalry between the Irish miners and how that determined the death of some towns and the survival of Queenstown.

After a very enjoyable journey we went home to the van and commenced our journey to Hobart, still full from all the food on the train. It is one of the longer legs of our journey and we encountered a full moon on the way finally arriving at Paul and Emily’s house in South Hobart around 6.30pm.

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The Retirees on the Move Again – Tasmania in Ten – Dove Lake, Tullah and Strahan

The following morning, we awoke to another cold day with grey skies and spotting rain. Nevertheless, we decided to visit Dove Lake and view the Cradle Mountain. The first shuttle was at 9.10 am and we were on it – apart from the driver the only ones on it. After 20 mins driving through the park we arrived at a car park with snow topped mountains in the background. On the far side of the car park was a sign board with all the walks available and Kerry selected the walk to the old boat shed. We walked past a couple getting out of their car with backpacks and bush walking sticks looking the very image of prepared experienced walkers. We walked along the edge of the lake, passing buttongrass and other alpine flora not realising we were walking in the shadow of Cradle Mountain. That couple from the car park passed us as we neared the boat shed. We started talking with them and learned they were walking to the summit of Cradle Mountain which was immediately behind us. After bidding them fair weather for their climb and taking a few snaps of the boat shed (I don’t know how long it has stood in that cold water but it seemed in good nick given the environment) we returned to that car park and caught the shuttle back to the caravan park and set sail for Strahan.

There is no mobile phone service on Cradle Mountain or its surrounds, so we blissfully thought the world had forgotten us until we reached Tullah (pronounced Tu-lah in Strahan and Tull -a in Queenstown) and we regained service and the urgent messages. Whilst Kerry rang home, I made a cup of coffee. Coffee cup in hand I walked through the mining memorial beside the highway. It had provided a convenient place to pull in and it also told an interesting story about the mining of galena (silver sulphide – the usual form of lead in its natural state) at Mt Farrell in the 19th century and later after the Depression a second strike was made saving the town till 1974.

Kerry finished her phone call and we moved onto Strahan. We had hopes of visiting Bonnet Island but the weather is against sailing through Hells Gates (or so we were told) so it is an afternoon of knitting and writing this blog.

That evening we visited Hamers Hotel for dinner. Not bad but a limited menu and a noisy woman who continuously laughed like a hyena.

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