The mornings were quite crisp so the fire was lit whilst we fed the birds and had breakfast. We had word that the Markets were on this morning. Nothing like the word “Markets” to wet the palate so the plan to go to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse took a slight deviation to the local school grounds for the Markets. A short drive to the other end of the village and there it lay – the Markets – a collection of all strange things and smells a bit like early explorers we lay anchor in the crowded carpark and moved amongst the natives. There was a lonely busker plying his trade before an uncaring audience wound up in the goods on sale. Now I tired very quickly – once around the tents was enough. So I became the buskers sole fan but I was soon joined by Dale and we sat patiently like dogs on a lead waiting for the madam to return.
Once the shopping flea had been scratched the girls returned to collect us and on the road again.
On our way to the lighthouse we had a few other points of interest to visit and the first of these was Canal Rocks – a rocky headland outcrop with interesting formation and wind weathered rocks. The wind was strong but the rocks tell you how strong they can get.
It was still early by the time we arrived at Cullens Wines Cellar Door and vineyard. Our thoughts ran to a hot coffee and a bun but the cellar door was under renovation and the staff disinterested so we basically looked around and moved on.
Next winery Vasse Felix. Founded by Dr Thomas Cullity in 1967, its first vintage in 1971, David Gregg appointed winemaker in 1973, the Gregg Family acquire the vineyard in 1984, and the vineyard and cellar door were acquired by the Holmes a Court Family in 1987 and remain the owners today. The cellar door is picturesque and the top of the range in Australian cellar doors. The entrance is manicured with a large well maintained carpark so much so that an odd looking home made vehicle stands out like a sore thumb. Sculptures decorate the entrance walkway with gracious trees and landscaping – the carpark is worth visiting!
Stepping inside is an experience in its self. There is a gallery behind the enormous doors shown below and only two chairs to sit an admire the art. There is a cellar of the very best Vasse Felix wines above which is the wine tasting area and cafe and outstanding pieces of sculpture and art then upstairs is the restaurant exuding an opulence of elegance with an Australian flavour. The dining room was full of guests and I felt like a pervert spying on them so I declined to photograph the dining room. As we left we were followed by birdsong.
Finally time to return home but not before we visited Cowaramup; a village just up the road from Margaret River paying homage to the dairy cow. These fibre glass cows and calves adorn the footpaths and shop fronts throughout the village adding significantly to the character of the place. The pharmacy was particularly caught up in the mad cow disease.
There were a number of shops we had to visit and fortunately 1 was the French bakery where we obtained lunch then a Curiosity shop (I found it curious we were in there) and the sweet shop – I missed that having been caught up in curiosity. We were now close to our home and the fireplace and bottle of wine was calling – no sorry that was the birds for their afternoon feed.
We will be back on the road tomorrow this time going to the most south-westerly point on the mainland Australia.
Did I tell you we handed the car back to cousin Ken which meant that we got the opportunity to unite our efforts to explore this big wide land or at least Swan Valley. After feeding the birds and ourselves we picked up the tourist map provided by the Tourist Information Centre and Zdravka’s itinerary and headed out for adventure. First Stop – the chocolate shops. Oh, the Morish Nuts shop was worth a stop for a photo too.
Then we moved onto the House of honey – a sticky situation developed.
We continued our exploration of the waterholes and camp spots finding delights wherever we went.
After filling the morning with all the delights of the valley we returned to Guildford and the selection of somewhere to get lunch. Now there are a number of pubs near the centre of the old town – The Rose and Crown – well we had been there, the Stirling Arms built in 1852, or the Guildford Hotel which had been the subject of a fire and we decided to go to the last one Guildford Hotel to see what they had done to the menu and whether it was all burnt up. The reno looked positive so fingers crossed for the menu.
With our bellys full we decided to slow the pace and take a walk in the park – Stirling Park on the other side of the rail line. To get to the park we had to cross the rail line in Meadows St and we encountered the first of a number of memorials to the Tenth Light Horse Regiment. The first is the Guildford Town War Memorial, then Guildford’s Artillery Guns and the Memorial Gates. The Guildford Town War Memorial remembers the many men who served in World War 1, the 25 pound Artillery pieces are replacements for two earlier guns, a captured Howitzer from WW1 and a twenty five pounder from WW2 and the Memorial Gates originally from Perth Railway Station presented to the town to honour the men of the Tenth Light Horse Regiment.
There are a number of other memorials but I was very taken by the Tenth Light Horse Statue developed by Charles Robb as part of a community initiative again in remembrance of the Tenth Light Horse Regiment raised in the town in 1914. It acknowledges the bond between horse and Trooper and support of indigenous horse breakers. None of the horses returned to Australia.
There is more to the park than war memorials, there are the white cockatoos nesting in the caverns in the gum trees.
After a walk in the park we thought about a cup of coffee and recalled Yahava Koffeeworks that we had driven passed. It was on the way home so we called in. In the carpark we found an old Toyota – someone enjoyed the coffee and decided to stay. The garden was pretty but I think I may have been getting bored at this time. Inside they were roasting beans and there was every known apparatus for drinking the brew. They even had a water view to enjoy the brew and finally there was the bird bath – bye bye birdee.
I was pretty tired by then and so we ended the day in front of the fire at home with a glass and watching the Olympics. We have picked up some local products and decided that between the wine and local product that was it for the night. Tomorrow is another day, more fire wood to be chopped and Galahs (the birds) to be fed so I would need my kip.
Our next destination was the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse located on the headland of the most south-westerly point on the mainland Australia.
The light tower which is built of local stone was originally designed to show two lights – a higher white light and a lower red light. Although the foundations were completed, the lower light was never installed. It was opened with great ceremony in 1895. Until June 1982 the lens was rotated by a counter weight driving clockwork mechanism, and the beacon was a pressure kerosene mantle type. A radio navigation beacon was commissioned in 1955 and operated until 1992. The lighthouse was automated in 1982. The lighthouse, besides being a navigational aid, serves as an important automatic weather station. The lighthouse’s buildings and grounds are now vested in the local tourism body and the single (1960s) and double (1980s) communications towers that were north-west of the lighthouse, seen in older photographs of Cape Leeuwin, have been removed.
We approached the lighthouse from Augusta. The rock below commemorates the landing of the first settlers in 1830 from the Brig Emily Taylor . From that point you look out across a broad bay and behind us you can see the rock walls protecting the new marina. Immediately behind the memorial is a rock shelf decorated with the seaweed washed ashore. A bit further along is another memorial this time to Capt. Matthew Flinders RN aboard the HMS Investigator 6th December 1801 when he sighted Cape Leeuwin and commenced mapping the coast of Australia. Atop of the memorial are the features that can be sighted from this point such as the conjunction of the Indian Ocean and the Great Southern Ocean.
The reason we came this way – I don’t recall but the vista of the lighthouse emphasises the remoteness of this point. The light keepers house and other out buildings and water tanks can be seen on the right hand side of the photos. The entrance takes you into the coffee shop and gift shop and then you make your way through each of the following buildings with museums and artifacts all of which i think is to disguise how far you have to walk to get to the lighthouse. Finally we got to the reason for coming here today – to see the meeting of the two oceans
The climb to the viewing deck of the lighthouse consists of 176 steps. Enough said.
Returning north along Caves Rd we encountered the Lake Cave. It is a stunning crystal wonderland, situated deep beneath the earth. The entrance of the cave lies at the base of a spectacular sinkhole. Visitors descend a staircase through an ancient sinkhole called a doline, gazing up at the towering karri trees from the floor of the sunken forest. Inside the cave a tranquil lake reflects the delicate crystal formations that grow from the cave ceiling and dazzling crystal formations dominate the cave roof, while the unique ‘Suspended Table’ is perfectly reflected in the tranquil water below.
Droplets hang from the tips of straws and stalactites before dropping to the cave floor or into the lake creating ripples in the water’s reflections. The unique ‘Suspended Table’ formation, which weighs several tonnes and seems to defy gravity as it hovers above the clear lake water is one of the unique features within the cave. We took a guided. They say there is moderate physical exertion required to enter this cave. Don’t believe it for a minute – easy going down but when you make your way back up the staircase of the magnificent doline do it at your own pace.
Looking at the photos we start at the Visitors centre and from there you walk out onto a deck above a huge sinkhole – you have to see it to believe it. As you go down there are a number of changes in direction and this has alot to do with the return journey being exhausting. You will see a large rock lying on its side (from the left down photo 8) and this is a staligmite that collsaped during a recent bush fire almost sealing off the entrance to the cave. The photo to the right of the staligmite is the hole it came from. The inside the cave is like a fairyland. Photos 10 and 11 show you the suspended table formed by flood waters through the cave. The final photo #17 is the doorway to the tunnel that was drilled to release the flood water to preserve the cave.
Well we have visited many caves around the world, but we were about to encounter the worst return to the Visitors Centre – up the stairs. Well I don’t know how many stairs but both Kerry and I took at least half an hour to climb out of the hole and that was it for us that day. Dale and Zdravka patiently awaited our climb and I may have had a nanny nap going home. Tomorrow we will go north again to Busselton – no stairs.
Dale and Zdravka have planned to go to the Pinnacles and without the use of Ken’s car we decided to hitch a ride. The Pinnacles are limestone formations within Nambung National Park, near the town of Cervantes, Western Australia 2 hours drive north of Perth. Dale had his trusty new Landcruiser at hand with plenty of space for all. The drive proved trouble free and we were treated to some unique countryside. Note the unique intrusion of the sand into the surrounding scrub in photos # 6 & 7 (reading left to right down the page).
The weather was slightly overcast but the air-con was on and we were sweet. As we came closer to the area around Cervantes the country was flat with scrubby bushes but as we drawing nearer suddenly there were sand hills rolling in across the top of the scrub and to match the sand hills the clouds piled up promising rain at some stage. Below are pictures of the pinnacles. You can walk freely among the pinnacles and it reminds me of walking among headstones in a cemetery.
There was a visitor’s centre with an interesting museum on the wildlife and the Aboriginals tales about the origins of the Pinnacles – a bit more interesting than the speculation by the scientists about the creation of the rock formations. Fascinating to wander through and see how the animals and birds used them. Referring to our tour itinerary we decided it was time for the Lobster Shack in Cervantes for lunch. Zdravka had spent hours piecing together our tour making this a relaxing holiday for us in the back seat. Cervantes is named after a ship that was wrecked nearby. The ship, in turn, was named after Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote. The principal industry in the town is fishing particularly Lobster. The Pinnacles in nearby Nambung National Park and the saline Lake Thetis, which contains stromatolites, supports a small tourism industry which helps out the economy of the area. Firstly we stopped off at a beach and touched the Indian Ocean then into Cervantes and the Lobster Shack.
The Lobster shack – watch out for the robbing sea gulls.
Leaving Cervantes and onto the saline Lake Thetis, which contains stromatolites. “Stromatolites – Greek for ‘layered rock’ – are microbial reefs created by cyanobacteria”. These deposits built up very slowly: a single 1m structure may be 2,000 to 3,000 years old. But the tiny microbes that make up modern Stromatolites are similar to organism that existed 3.5 billion years ago! What’s more, Stromatolites are the reason why we’re alive today! Before cyanobacteria the air was only 1% oxygen. Then, for 2 billion years, photosynthesising Stromatolites pumped oxygen into the oceans (like underwater trees, before trees existed). When the oceans’ waters were saturated, oxygen was released into the air, and with around 20% of oxygen in the air, life was able to flourish and evolve. For context, consider that the Earth itself has been around for 4.5 billion years, and that modern Homo sapiens have only been on Earth for 160,000 years.
Finally we had to climb this hill and look at the ocean to end our visit to Cervantes.
I may have nodded off on the way home- old people do that.
However it was the end to an enjoyable day. The Pinnacles presented a foreign landscape out of place until we experienced the Stramatolites of Lake Thetis and somehow it makes sense – billions of years have passed and this is the outcome.
We wake with the sunrise and outside the kangaroos are gathering across the road. They stay there until 8.00 am when they will rush across to the back of the Sebel Apartments. No one is there to feed them but that doesn’t deter them. Dale and Zdravka are going to Perth to Kings Park and we are taking a wine tour. We will meet the coach at Guildford opposite the visitors centre.
After breakfast we drove into Guildford and meandered through the streets until we stood in the bus stop awaiting our guide. We were getting concerned when the bus had not arrived at the appointed time. We were on the point of ringing the tour company when we noticed the bus approaching. The driver was some what surprised but called us on board. So the tour began. Our first stop would be Mandoon Estate. I was suspicious that something was wrong and so at Mandoon the driver started investigating our tickets. Lo and behold we were 1 day too early and travelling with a different tour company and our tour commenced tomorrow. My embarrassment would not permit me to continue although that was offered and I could not bring myself to even taste the wine.
So we walked through the winery and found the early homestead now turned into an arts and crafts gallery with views over the Swan River. From the river bank we watched a pair of cockatoos preparing their nest in a hole in the tree.
Still feeling embarrassed that not only had we joined the wrong tour but we even got the day for our tour wrong, I was inclined to avoid showing my face at Mandoon cellar door. However adjoining Mandoon is Sandalford Wines cellar door – nothing too hold me back we came into the cellar door via the tradesman’s entrance. Sandalford is one of the biggest wine producers in the Valley. As we walked through the vineyards we noticed these white flowers everywhere but no one seemed certain if they had a purpose other than looking pretty. We settled down to some serious wine tasting
After tasting the wines at Sandalford I still could not bring myself to do any wine tasting at Mandoon so we caught an Uber (remember our car is back in Guildford) back to Guildford and strolled the old town a little further. We had planned to visit a number of different places in the Valley with our traveling companions so we could not explore too far. After lunch we headed back to Sebel in the Vines and made plans for dinner.
The following morning we repeated our trip to Guildford and caught the correct tour bus. As we boarded Kerry recounted yesterday’s adventure. This introduction broke the ice with the other passengers – 3 gay guys who admitted they were a 3 some very quickly into the trip. First stop was Nikola Estate (formerly Houghtons Winery) and the largest vineyard in WA. Very elegant and extensive grounds – the driver gossiped that the owners had a big event here and the vineyard grounds were jammed packed so much so that people could not leave the vineyard until after midnight due to the traffic jam created as people tried to leave. Well there was no trouble like that today. The place was empty so the 5 of us were sat down at the big table and tried their wines.
Sitting at the table I noticed they have a chapel for weddings. Although the cellar door and grounds were impressive this was not what we had come looking for. Here is a glimpse of the chapel from our tasting window.
Next we moved onto Olive Farm Wines. Yes a combination small winery which was of more interest to us particularly its wine dispenser which you can see below. The drive into the vineyard can be observed from the wine tasting table with the vineyard either side of the driveway. Thus far each vineyard had some different style or grape variety in addition to traditional grape varieties but this dispenser was something to behold – there were 30+ bottles on tap for a tasting at a price. The cellar door was quite busy but I expect it was tours like us in a small winery that made it seem very full. I liked their Shiraz (I know I’m boring) and left with bottle in hand. Onto the next one – Lamont’s Winery.
Lamont’s did not impress as the other two cellar doors did, but inside was a different story. Lamont’s appeared lost in the bush whereas the other two were prominent on a major road. Of course I had to have an incident with my camera – the battery was flat and I did not bring my backup so the picture below is all I can offer for Lamont’s. Inside was a busy cafe, and the maturing vats and wine tasting area. Our host who’s name is lost to me now (I think he was married to one of the daughters of the Lamont family based on his apparent level of authority but not directly part of the family based on his “experience” in the industry related to us during the tasting). The gay guys turned out to be easy going but inexperienced travelers and wine connoisseurs and our host played up to them. He gathered their choice in wines told them it was cheap and nasty gave them the bottle and turned to Kerry and me asking what we would like to taste. Kerry suggested we get straight to the good stuff in their range of Shiraz and she was saving herself for the gin distillery. Our host lined up 3 bottles of Shiraz each of a different vintage and went through with each wine in an indepth tasting and of course I bought the one I liked – ouch was it that much? Read more about the winery at https://lamonts.com.au/swan-valley-winery/.
As we left he threw in a packet of olives to have with the wine which was generous of him and they were enjoyed by Dale and Zdravka but not with my wine.
Next stop was the gin distillery Sin Gin. Sin Gin Distillery is a Nano distillery creating Perth Pink, Original Sin & the Seven Deadly Sins range of gins in the Swan Valley. Sin Gin is named after Kate Sinfield who brought ideas of gin with her from England to Australia in the 1980’s. Mark and Kate work closely with products from the local Western Australian environment to handcraft unique, tasty and fun gins. Here is a link to their website – https://singindistillery.com.au/collections/the-sin-gin-collections. With my camera battery flat there are no photos. We made our way home to share stories and our olives with Dale and Zdravka. Tomorrow I will need to cut more wood for the fire – very chilly nights.
It all started as a conversation over a coffee meeting. Dale and Zdravka (long term friends) were talking about an across country trip they were planning once they had taken delivery of their new Land Cruiser. Their plans to go skiing had expanded into driving across the Nullarbor through the eastern goldfields of Western Australia onto Perth because they had never been there before – as you do.
Now we saw an opportunity. Between breaking my neck, undergoing months of treatment, surgeries for that then surgery (a craniotomy) for my brain tumour discovered during the second operation to screw my head back on then radiology therapy and now chemotherapy, that we needed a holiday and a return visit to Swan Valley and Margaret River wine districts might be just the go. However, we were not ready to drive across the Nullarbor to get there.
As members of the Accor Vacation Club, we were able to book accommodation in Swan Valley so we did a deal that we would meet up in Swan Valley for a few days sharing accommodation and then travel with them to Margaret River to again share accommodation in exchange for which we would hitch a ride with them whilst we were together. As we were developing the itinerary our son Paul let it be known that our granddaughter was playing lead guitar in her school band and that generally coincided with the end of the WA adventure, so our planning then included a return trip through Tasmania.
So, the fun of planning how to stitch these ideas together started resulting in Zdravka producing an elaborate itinerary which included us for part of their tour. The tour for us commenced with an early morning plane flight from Brisbane to Perth (a five-hour flight) then an Uber ride to Sebel Swan Valley.
Home at Sebel
We arrived in Perth just about the same time as we received a text from Kerry’s cousin Ken advising that his mother-in-law had passed away and he would not be at his home to greet us (Ken lives in Swan Valley). Even so Arden, Ken’s son, would be home and Ken offered us the use of his car. So, our Uber ride from the airport was shorter but not by much to pick up Ken’s car and catch up with Arden.
After collecting the car, we arrived at the Sebel before Dale and Zdravka. Fortunately, as it was somewhat of a puzzle to find the place. Despite its seclusion the amenities were very good. Surrounded by a golf course and a Novotel Hotel it was very comfortable and had some interesting WA neighbours.
Our neighbours were very quiet, but they were not your usual types. A mob of kangaroos gathered in the back of the apartment on the edge of the green of one of the course holes. Even when I took a walk the following morning the mob was there. However right on 8.00am they would race from the course proper to the area behind our unit – rather obvious sign that someone is feeding them. Similarly, the local parrots which looked like the Lorikeets from the Currumbin Bird Sanctuary only predominantly green.
8.00am the mob arrives and loiters there all day local parrot
Dale and Zdravka arrived about midday and the usual preparations for a short stay commenced – a visit to the supermarket and bottle shop. The following morning, I was up and feeling good so I took a walk on the golf course where our neighbours were settling a minor dispute and haunting the golfers: –
A playful fist-a-cuffs, Haunting the green and a Xanthorrhoea in the fairway
Zdravka had their day planned and as we unexpectedly had a car, we decided to do something different from them. It was Friday so we took a drive and ended up in Guildford (the old town area) and spent most of the day exploring this earliest British settlement in Swan Valley. Guildford was founded in 1829 at the confluence of the Helena River and Swan River, being sited near a permanent fresh water supply and was one of the earliest settlements of the Swan River Colony. It is one of only three towns in the metropolitan area listed on the Register of the National Trust. Guildford was originally the centre of the Swan River Colony before Perth succeeded in being the dominant location on the Swan Coastal Plain.
We found ourselves recalling the area from earlier visits but this time we stumbled across the Visitors Centre being the converted former Magistrates Court, Gaol house and a settlers cottage (relocated for its historic preservation). The Courthouse has a fabulous small museum on British settlement and some of the history of the 10th Australian Lighthouse Regiment that trained there before and during WW1 and still operates as a unit of the Australian Defence Force today. Across the road from the Courthouse is a relaxing park full of magnificent gum trees, cockatoos and memorials to the Regiment. We visited this later with Dale and Zdravka and I will return to it later.
History board The old Magistrates Court now Visitors Centre
The old Gaol The curfew bell
The curfew bell has stood there since early settlement and no one thought to steal it until the twentieth century. A country of convicts in deed.
The “settler’s cottage” is a two-room shanty one room for sleeping and the main room was for kitchen, dining and everything else and was once the home of an early settler who had been transported as a convict. He and his wife raised 13 children in this home and outdoor dunny.
Kerry and our guide outside the shanty the only internal wall in the house.
The kitchen and below the bedroom. The dunny
Our guide is a local teacher, who volunteers on weekends and her family has been living in Swan Valley for several generations in the same house 11 Meadow St built in the 1860s. If memory serves me, I think, her grandmother may have been the last family member to live there but the new owner is only too obliging to show the home and its historic features. The house was just down the road, and our guide told us to tell the new owners she had sent us to see the house. So, we strolled across the rail line passed the old local Council Chambers, the local theatre company, a large pub, and made an acquaintance with another resident in the street. Whilst Kerry was chatting with her new friend I was trying to find the house our guides grandmother had lived in, when I was rushed by our the new owner keen to show us the house. Very warm community. We were shown into the backyard where we met her partner doing some gardening and our host then pointed out the original house and its extensions.
The front of number 11
The shed at the back and its extension A grape vine originally planted in 1860
The Dunny/garden shed
Our guide had told us about the 10th Light Horse Regiment and how her grandfather (now deceased) was a veteran of WW1 and had been a member of the regiment. The town has remembered their service by providing each home where the veterans lived with a poppy to stand at the front of the house to remember them and their service.
The original well with a modern accessory Front door of No 11
Well, feeling a bit sombre from this journey through history we needed a coffee so we headed to the oldest pub in town the Rose & Crown and the fable underground cellar. In the earliest days of settlement when the pub was catering to a much rougher crowd, they brought in their supplies of alcohol from sailing ships plying the Swan River through an underground tunnel which has today been transformed into a bar and night spot.
Cellar – this way Original fittings Dark and sinister bar
I have left writing this blog too long – I think we wandered a bit up the main street and then went home dragging Dale and Zdravka to the Rose and Crown for dinner that night.
I am in the Eva Air business class lounge facing a 19 hour delay before our next flight and you know I don’t care. Just had a shower. What a fantasy that is. The only thing missing is the personal attendant to rub your back.
I have answered my emails reviewed the results of the Easts directors retreat reviewed the amended budget and shot off some questions to the CFO and oh yes Kerry and I have discussed our day. We plan to take a free half day tour to Longshan Temple, the Presidential office building, Chiang Kai-shek memorial Hall, Martyrs Shrine and the Taipei Mall (hunting and gathering again).
A walk around the terminal for an hour or so and back to the lounge. This gave us the opportunity to check out the weather – shitty to say the least. Kerry is still over tired and does not feel up to the tour in rainy weather. Cancelled the tour. Killed time walked the entire terminal 1, 2, 3, and 4 – they all join up.
Finally on the plane and business class is a treat. Next stop Paris (only 13 hours flying). The trip was probably the bumpiest trip I have ever had and the layout of the seats meant that Kerry and I could barely see one another and over that period it becomes annoying.
Landed at Charles De Gaulle and waited for the luggage and waited and waited. Extremely high winds made it impossible to unload our plane. Got the luggage and collected the car. Set the GPS and off to Amboise in the Loire Valley we go. Interesting trip just under 2 hours but how the scenery changed. The suburbs of Paris looked dirty and cold while the country side around Amboise is clean and fresh but also cold. Amboise has been around since the Neolithic times when it was settled by a Celtic group called the Turones, occupied by the Romans and the first signs of a castle appeared in the 4th century AD. Clovis the King of the Franks met Alaric King of the Visigoths on Ile d’Or (the island in the Loire river just off Amboise) in 503AD (no idea why) but this gives you some idea that when I say the buildings here are a real mixture of old and new and the roads are all designed for donkey carts that its true.
Jet lag caught up with on the first day. We found our hotel, walked to the Tourism office bought our tickets for the next day’s adventures and came back for a nanna nap and I woke again at 3.00am.
Our Hotel/Downtown Amboise
Up bright and early – hey who played around with my watch its 7.45 am? It’s overcast so no idea of the time therefore slept in. Never the less we left the hotel on time to visit Clos Luce, Leonardo da Vinci’s last home (gifted to him by Francois 1st). It’s a bit more than a home but not quite a chateau. It is surrounded by lovely gardens and contains a history of da Vinci’s engineering designs and inventions from military to civil. Even had Kerry interested (oops spoke to soon she’s sitting down – time to move on).
Clos Luce
We had chosen to walk but it’s another shitty day weather wise windy and wet which made the entrance to Castle Amboise a bit treacherous. The castle is in the middle of the city and as we walked to the castle we noticed that the castle walls contained houses. I don’t know when but people have constructed house in the castle walls. They are privately owned so we could not see inside but quite different. Les Troglodytes – Oui!
Troglodytes
The castle itself is only part of the original (about 50% I guess has been demolished over time). What remains was interesting. Da Vinci is buried there. He lived in Amboise only 3 years before dying and in his will he asked to be entombed in the St Florentin church in Castle Amboise and when this was demolished they dug up his bones some coins (by which they determined these were da Vinci’s bones) and reinterred him in the St Hubert Chapel also in the castle grounds (where you can see him today).
Castle Amboise
St Hubert’s Chapel
Home for a sandwich and then we drove to Chateau Chenonceaux. Now this place is unique in that it is built in the river Cher with a short timber bridge on one end and a 60m bridge connecting it to the other side (the bridge was covered in by Catherine de Medici (wife of Henri II) after his death and after she took the chateau back from Henri’s lover Diane of Poitiers (for whom Henri acquired the Chateau). The “bridge “was turned into a banquet hall by Catherine and the chateau changed hands a few times up to 1945 but is now a heritage building. It is not opulently fitted out but is interesting because of the various people who have called it home since 1521.
Chenonceaux
“the Bridge” – Chenonceaux
Back in Amboise we noticed a very old building containing a quaint restaurant across the road from the hotel (across the road – you can see into the restaurant and vis a versa – the road is 6m wide from the wall of our hotel to the wall of the restaurant). So we had drinks in the living room of the hotel browsing the local picture books on the sites of the Loire Valley then ambled across the road for dinner. But for the fact it was blowing a gale and probably close to 0c it was lovely. To bed to dream and check the internet. Bugger! We had planned to visit Futuroscope outside Poitiers but it is closed until February 14 – one of our goals was to go back to Futuroscope but now we are going to miss it. In France when something says on its web site opening in February do not think they mean the 1st of February.
Next morning breakfast in our hotel room (porridge and a cuppa) and travel onto Chinon and the Fortresse Royale. Amboise was like a village you see all over France – history in every house and town planning for donkey carts and pedestrians. I enjoyed the town but I am a 21st century boy and looking forward to an Ibis Hotel in Poitiers.
On the road again and we made good time down to Chinon. As seems usual in France the GPS “Tommy” has the difficulty of finding its way in the villages but this time it was the town of Chinon. “Turn right” it said and all I could see was a barely sealed road connecting houses with an uncertain end round a corner. So I missed the turn but my co-pilot insisted we go down that path. Within 50m we came to a roundabout and on the third exit a bloody big sign “Chinon – medieval citie” and “Fortresses Royale – Parking”. Under co – pilot instructions I went back to the muddy lane and down we went until we shocked a French woman walking her dog who politely told us yes you can get to the fortress this way but it is better to go over there as there is parking for the car (at least that is what we determined as she was as good with English as we were with French – avoided running over the dog).
Got to the parking and then to the visitors centre then to the fortress. Sited on a rocky outcrop (as usual) it towers over the city. It is actually three forts in one. The oldest Coudray Tower is where the last of the knights Templar were held after Louis Philippe ordered the arrest of all members of the temple. The Middle Tower contains a very interesting display on the history of the fort (last used for military purposes in the 15th century) the visits by Joan of Arc to Charles VII and the archaeology discoveries. It also contains the bell tower (which we climbed after it rang 12noon) and this is an additional 5 stories above the fort and probably 100m above the city. (It is said that the bell has rung over Chinon since 1399 and this is where the “Plantagenet” started life when Geoffrey V Count of Anjou took the nickname “Plantagenet” after a sprig of broom he wore in his hat and his son Henri II became King of England through his mother). So Chinon remained a little bit of England through Richard the Lion Heart and then King John who lost the fortresse to Philippe Auguste King of France and Chinon became part of France for the first time. As you can see I enjoyed this part.
Coudray Tower
Middle Tower
Finally there is the Tower of St Georges which was not really part of the military defences but the royal suites and administration centre for France under Charles VII. The emblem for the city is three towers. After the reign of Charles VII Chinon loses popularity and the last fortification work was in 1560. Thereafter it falls into disuse and comes close to destruction in 1854. In the intervening period many parts of the three towers and principally the third one is destroyed (the visitors centre is located where the third tower once stood). It is now a listed historic monument and as you can see some significant historical moments occurred here. Great fun for me not so much for Kerry who become angry and distressed (and rightly so) when I went exploring in the Coudray tower and the cells below ground.
We notice there is an elevator on the side of the cliff about 50m from the visitors centre so we went in search of a hot chocolate in the town. Just like Amboise its design is from other eras and has a mixture of the oldest and the older throughout. Found the hot chocolate in a Tabac – not much open on a Sunday had a sandwich in the car then off to Poitiers. We arrived about 2.00 booked in settled in and I had a nanna nap. After dinner in a very interesting pub called Au Bureau we strolled the streets and are keen to see it all in daylight.
Still waking early despite the lack of sunlight and the overcast weather. Breakfast in our room, packed up checked out then strolled the medieval city which has been transformed by modern paving in the narrow streets and limiting traffic to essential commercial traffic. But Mondays are strange in that none of the shops opened before 2.00pm. Visited a Romanesque church Notre Dame Le Grand Dame said to be the oldest church in France (12th century) and it still has some of its original frescos.
Notre Dame Le Grand Dame
Eglise la Porchaine Poitiers
Spotted a cafe – well actually we smelt it first – so we shot over for a hot chocolat. Met a French woman who teaches French to foreign students and they in turn are teaching her English and she practised on us. We also visit another Romanesque church Eglise la Porchaine unusual because it is square and has a 3 storey square bell tower. It is still raining and very little open so we decide to trek on to Dampierre sur Boutonne to visit Cousin Terri and her husband Mick. We arrived just about lunch time.
Dampierre is a rural village of about 50 homes about 1 hour west of La Rochelle. Mick and Terri have lived here (I’m not certain) 15 years plus (I first met my cousin when she visited Dad and Mum in Brisbane and then returned the favour in 1990 when she and Mick lived in Brighton Hove and Mick bought and sold motors.) Shortly thereafter they moved to Dampierre to renovate an abandoned house and create “gites” French holiday accommodation, Mick turned his hand to renovating for other Poms taking advantage of their EU status to invade France once again. One of the projects they have taken on is the renovation of a house at Leger. Mick’s youngest son Daniel is visiting (he also has bought and renovated abandoned houses) and over lunch we talk them into showing us the progress with this renovation (Daniel says it still looks like a WW1 house on the Somme). So we drive toward Aulnay through the back blocks of the back of beyond to Leger. It is as pretty as I remember it. An abandoned house with granny flat looking across open French fields. Today one of Terri’s neighbours is planting a plot of potatoes with a garden fork – a centuries old scene. There is still a lot of work to be done but they are both still enthusiastic about the project. A combination of poor holiday seasons and Mick’s health not permitting him to work has seen a shortage of cash for the project but still Mick has performed a lot of the fundamental reconstruction needed. Personally and Mick now agrees he agrees he should have bull dozed the house and started again but that would not have the same charm, Back to Dampierre a warm fire and hot meal. Kerry has developed a sore throat and goes to bed and I bore Terri Mick and Daniel with photos and we reminisce about Dad’s emigration as a 19 year old to start a new life in Australia.
Its early once again – cannot seem to sleep past 4.00am. Still dark and cold but it must be time for a cuppa to start the day. Raining windy and cold. We decided to visit the donkeys (not open on Tuesdays) and go to La Rochelle to see if our memories of the town are true. So we drove over to the donkey farm where we saw the local breed of donkey brought back from extinction through one stallion and careful breeding. Long ears and a hairy coat they look a little strange.
L’Assinere Baudet Du Poitou
Then we travelled out to the coast to La Rochelle. It was windier and colder making it difficult to find the town we remembered. But we did buy a Euro millions ticket and out popped two tickets = a good omen and Kerry who had been longing for a crepe citron got her crepe.
St Malo sea wall
Weather does not improve so we head home for a warm fire and a cuppa. Mick and Terri arrived later and we put on some nibbles before dinner. Terri pulls out her Euro Millions ticket and we agree to pool our chances.
Next morning happy birthday to Kerry and up early to travel to Le Mont St Michel and St. Malo. Mick cooks us a hot breakfast and makes us lunch as well while Terri checks the lotto results. The weather has cleared to a fine day. After breakfast and the disappointment that we missed out on Euro millions it is farewell and hit the road. As we approach the address of our accommodation, Kerry has serious doubts about its location. We are driving through vacant paddocks and ancient farm villages but suddenly Le Mont appears behind all the villages and our accommodation comes into view. It turns out to be perfect, well located and cheap.
Le Mont St Michel
Meet the proprietor (who cannot speak English) but we muddle through then off to St Malo. Fabulous old walled city but even the GPS got lost in the city. So we parked outside then walked through fighting a fierce storm with strong winds and rain. It is too early for dinner so we decide to go back to Le Mont and a nice restaurant there for a birthday dinner for Kerry. Nothing opens before 7.00pm so in frustration we go home and have vegemite sandwiches and a cup of tea. Try again tomorrow.
The next morning we dine on a sumptuous continental breakfast and leave for the Mont. Extraordinary the car parking available for excursions to the Abbey. After parking we walked to the navette (bus) and travelled with hundreds of Japanese tourists to the Abbey (they thought it was the Tokyo underground and 100 tried to get on a fifty seater bus). At the Abbey we tried to lose them by walking up onto the ramparts and then up the stairs to the Abbey but there they were at the top and we tripped thought the Abbey together (giggling teenage Japanese girls doing stupid poses for their cameras all the way around). We got a surprise when we tried to pay to get in – a computer malfunction meant we got a free entry (gratuitie). The Abbey is large on a monumental scale and being on top of an island mountain it is a bloody long way up (hence a defibrillator at the top of the steps). The Abbey is a labyrinth of rooms passages and halls and kept us interested for hours. There is a garden like a roof garden which on one side is open to the sea sky and air (hence they have installed a perspex sheet to stop silly Japanese girls from falling out which I am certain they would have done – they all crowded around the opening like they did on the bus). Had a nice lunch and then returned to the area on the land – it has hotels a supermarket and restaurants all on a grand scale – the tourists in summer must be as thick as blow flies on a carcass.
View back to the main land
View of the abbey
Back to our B&B room for a nanna nap and dream about tomorrow
It all started with a 60th birthday and a flight from Brisbane to London. Premium economy seats were very comfortable but not until we reached Taipei – bloody Qantas don’t have premium economy on this shared leg. Arrive in London and onto to the London express to Paddington and then a cab ride through Hyde Park to our apartment. Pleasant surprise it was a one bedroom apartment with kitchen dining lounge large bedroom and bathroom. It also had a balcony which was green as it never saw the sun but received every chilling wind. No thoughts of a BBQ on the balcony. Day one went exploring and found the Natural History Museum a few streets away. After 3 – 4 hours we probably saw 1/3 of the available exhibits. So we needed some shopping therapy. But we went about it the hard way walking to Kensington High Street then along the edge of Kensington Gardens up to Harvey Nicks and Harrods where Kerry got her Harrod’s store card by buying a number of pairs of shoes.
Figure 1Natural History Museum Kensington
The next day Terri and Mick arrive and off we go to explore the Albert and Victoria Museum. Wow! It is difficult to describe the wealth of exhibits at this one place. Whew – off to the National gallery in Trafalgar Square to meet Mick’s sister Margaret for a drink, but not too late as we went to see “Matilda”. Wonderful show with outstanding set design and acting by the whole cast but directed more at kids.
Figure 2 Victoria and Albert Museum
Next day we took the Big Bus to see London. We sat atop the open bus in bloody freezing weather so by the time we reached the Tower of London we decided it was lunch time and found a pub and some warmth. Part of the tour included a boat ride down the Thames from Tower of London to Parliament House caught the bus and then back to Point West. The following day we shared a cab to Victoria Station and there farewelled Mick and Terri and picked up our hire car. Kerry then drove to Long Eaton where we picked up Frances and the entire product for the Move It Trade Show. 3 hours up and then 3 hours back to London set up the trade display (great position). Now we had promised David and Veronica we would catch up with their first born Tiffany and deliver some contraband for her birthday (vegemite, Twistees, and other Australian delicacies). I planned a clandestine meeting that night at an unknown pub off Edgeware Rd. Paddington. Everything went to plan except it was curry night at the pub. So after handing over the goodies we bored her with our travel tales. At about 10.00 pm we farewelled Tiffany who graciously thanked us for a wonderful evening.
First day at the Trade Show
Figure 3 Move It at the Olympiad
and obviously I was not required out side of taking some photos so back to the shops to top up the fridge and complete the washing. I had made contact with an old colleague Angus Innes and his wife Kath. They have been working in the UK for the last ten years but always like to hear from “the old country” so we caught up at La Poule au Pot at Sloane Square. Lovely little French restaurant and great company but now getting a bit tired. Day two and Kerry heads off to Olympia Earls Court and I go to the Natural History Museum to finish off what I did not see before – well after 4 hours I’ve had it and there is still more.
Natural History Museum Kensington
The London Bus Tour had introduced me to Primark – cheap clothes and as I packed light I needed some more clothes. $32 and I have 2 new shirts 2 pairs of trousers and some new underwear plus I had a great walk down Oxford St. from Marble Arch to Tottingham Court tube station. Then I had to go to Olympia to pick up Kerry and Frances and all the gear. We were parking the hire car under the apartment along with the Porsche Cayenne the Bentley and 5 Porsche sports cars. The following day its back to Long Eaton but fitting all the gear plus suit cases Frances and boyfriend in a Ford Focus – big ask but we got it done. On the way Kerry gets me to call Babeco and order something which screws up our cash card and HSBC account. As a result we had no cash in Long Eaton. We visited the new show room for Glitter and Dance UK and what a difference. The new premises are far more presentable airy and light but somewhat cold. So we bought some carpet remnants to carpet the office area and the samples area. With the help of Mitch (Frances boyfriend) we laid these bits and cleaned up the kitchen toilet area. We also took the opportunity to visit Nick and Selina Smith at Attenborough Textiles (the old residence of G&D) to introduce Frances, view the new fringing range and invite Nick and Selina to the new premises for a christening drink and dinner at the place of their choosing. After the christening drinks we left Frances and Mitch to clean up while we went to dinner (the boss can do that). Dinner was at the Dayles on a weir in Derby. It would have been picturesque except for the rain wind and snow. Exceptional food and service but we paid for it. But as a thank you to Nick and Selina for the last 4 years it did the trick. The next day we finished off the chores at the shop farewelled Frances and Mitch leaving them with instructions for future additions to the shop. Travelled back to London to find Heathrow flights had been cancelled and there was no room to be found around the airport. We got lucky. A disabled room (a room for disabled people) came available at Premier Inn at Hayes (yes HAYES) 15 minutes from Heathrow by car (with GPS). We dropped the car off the following morning and felt really good that everything was going to plan (even the UK debit card was freeing up). Caught the shuttle to Terminal 3 and headed off to Toronto on my birthday. Well almost – something fell off the plane so we sat on the tarmac waiting for it to be repaired. Premium economy again and it was great. Watched two movies – Cloud Atlas and Lincoln but somehow we were not seated together but on opposite sides of the plane. This enabled Kerry to whisper in the steward’s ear that it was my birthday and I was presented with a bottle of French Champagne. This was to play a role later on as we were carrying a bottle of Grant Burge sparkling pinot (a gift to me for finally retiring). Welcome to Toronto – grey and bleak also. Jumped the shuttle to Niagara Falls 1 hour late not knowing this was not a direct shuttle but a journey through the suburbs and villages to Niagara Falls. Two hours later (about 8.00 o’clock at night) we arrived in a windy freezing and empty Niagara Falls. Checked in ordered room service and looked out our “Falls view” window to see mist but no falls – they don’t light them up at night during winter. So we put the French bottle in the bar fridge and popped the top out the Grant Burge and tucked into dinner. The end of my birthday and I am now 59. Up early next morning to see the Falls – mist and more mist. But there are two! The semi circular falls on the Canadian side and the USA falls and we could not see either clearly. Determined to see the Falls we set off on foot with brief directions from the staff. We discovered an alternate route (all usual routes being closed for winter!) through the Casino (YES a Casino). Even so it was a 20 minute walk to the edge of the Niagara River and our first view of the USA Falls and the Canadian Falls in the distance. But the camera died apparently I had to recharge the battery. So a further frosty walk up to the Canadian Falls (the weather was cold Kerry was Frosty) and what a sight to behold. Then a brain storm – we would walk back to the hotel and recharge the camera and come back by cab to the Falls on the way to the station.
Niagara Falls
You have not felt cold until you have been to Canada. The walk back about 40 minutes in bright sunshine was still extra cold due to the wind but we got there and then after setting the camera to recharge we went to get a coffee at the Casino. Fabulous and grand it drew us in like fish into the net. But we only had yankee dollars a situation fixed with an aussie credit card. Kerry won as usual. But returning to the main story we caught the cab and down to the Falls and Kerry got her photos. Now to the station – then we learn that we have to go to the USA – across the Rainbow Bridge (which we could see was jammed with traffic),
Canadian / US border Rainbow Bridge
and through the border gates to the Amtrac station. Well it was 11.45am and our train left at 12.35pm (we thought the train left from the Canadian side). Homeland security refused us entry at 12.20pm. Our visas only permitted entry to the USA by air not land (F**K!). As we had travelled by taxi we had to be accompanied by our driver to get our visas. The driver assured us that we would get our visas and still get the train -“they are very quick”. As soon as we walked in I knew it was not going to be quick, Oriental families, Latin families and various couples were there in front of us. It took two hours to get our visa, Kerry sweet talked the ticket officer to transfer our tickets to the following day and our cab driver( oh yes he was still with us) took us to a hotel for the night. Just as Niagara Falls is pretty and modern Niagara USA is a dump. Our hotel was 3 stars but a dump. Just depressing and old but beggars cannot be choosers. The Marriott was well and truly behind us. It was at this time I found that I had left the GPS cover in the hire car at Heathrow and that I had packed the opened and unsealed Grant Burge and left the French champagne at the Marriott. Well our train left at 6.35 am and we did not want to miss it so up at sparrow fart caught a cab (yesterday’s fare ended up being USD$120.00) and caught a train to New York. Well if it wasn’t the most tedious, boring and prolonged journey – nine and half hours – to New York. I saw some of the dirtiest litter strewn parts of North America. But New York made up for it. After arriving at Penn Station (Pennsylvania station) Kerry took charge and led us in a circle eventually finding our Hotel in 32nd street “Korea town”. It turned out to be a great location for us. After booking in we wasted no time and went shopping – Lord and Taylor in 39th street then on to 42nd street Times Square and points beyond then walked back to the hotel. Friday was over. Saturday we bought our underground passes and went downtown walked around the World Towers site.
World Tower work site
then onto the Hudson River board walk and walked for an hour down to Battery Park did the ferry ride to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Is. Then the helicopter ride over New York. Walked to the subway and went up to Bloomingdales – by the time we got out of the subway it was snowing and we were glad to get indoors. Sunday was a big day starting off with a trip over to the Museum of the Moving Image in Queens (they call it Long Island City for some reason). We took the 36th street train and talk about broken down and ramshackle and yet once we walked over to the Museum the surroundings changed dramatically for the better. The museum was great fun – a history of the moving image and interactive tools we felt like kids at the kindergarten. Back to the Big Apple – Manhattan Island – and we went over to the Intrepid Museum – an old aircraft carrier moored in the Hudson River with old fighter jets, the Concorde and space shuttle on display. After that we walked from 12th Ave over to Times Sq. (Broadway and Sixth Ave) to purchase theatre tickets to Spiderman.
the USS INTREPID
Spiderman (a musical) is some thing to behold – arial stunts and bizarre costumes as well as song and dance. On the spectacle element it is hard to beat but the underlying story and music was average. Late night so we plan a sleep in tomorrow. Rise and shine it is a work day. We are to visit Nipkow, Spandex House and Fred Franknell but another load of washing first. So back to 30th Street and while Kerry was washing i went for a walk from 5th Ave to 9th Ave around the block and back again a full half hour at a quick pace. Then over to Penn Station to collect our tickets and check out where we had to go to catch the train- we were not going to miss this one either. Nipkow (Jackie and Regina) was interesting viewing all the fabrics and listening to their gossip but had to run to meet Mark at Spandex House. A very quick walk along a few blocks to 39th St and there it is. Strange it has a familiar look – glitter everywhere with cardboard tubing in use for all kind of things. Mark was a charming 68 year old Jewish gentleman very glad to be in our company. Off to lunch at his favourite pub accompanied by Asvir – an Indian from near Bombay (the accent was still distinct) and Fiji. He has family in Brisbane and is familiar with Australia. No fabric just lunch. Then off to Fred Franknell which turns out to be a woman (third generation of the Franknells) and we collect a parcel and view the sparkly trims. The parcel is quite heavy so we hike back to 32nd Street to off load. The rest of the afternoon was spent doing some shopping and then resting for the next leg of our journey – Philly. Snow begins to fall about 6.00pm suggesting it will be a wet trek to Penn Station which it was. We arrived in time and caught the train Business Class down to Philadelphia. Upon arriving we were impressed by a large almost Roman looking station and immediately got the impression that life was not as hectic here. Caught a cab beneath tall Ionian columns and travelled to the old part of the city. The cab driver looked puzzled when we told him the name and address of our hotel – not a good start. However we travelled directly to city hall and the traffic and into Chestnut Street – #2000 Chestnut Street and our hotel – 300 Chestnut! Well when he pulled up at 3rd and Chestnut and said here it is I could not see any hotel. There was a run down pub and then I spotted it the awning over the single door saying “Society Hill Hotel”. It turns out this is one of the oldest areas in Philly and this was likely from the revolution. Rang the bell and we were finally greeted by the cleaner who told Kerry that we were 4 floors off the ground, there was no lift, that the room had only been paid for 1 night and we could not have our room for another couple of hours. Well all I could see was me carting the luggage to the nearest 5 star hotel but the cleaner showed us a room (after much pleading) and explained that our suite had a lounge as well as the bedroom. Resigned to our fate we took the luggage to the 2nd floor and then set out to explore Philly. As it turned out we were located in the heart of the old city. We took the bus tour for the afternoon and then walked around our area finding some very interesting spots like Elfreth St, with the same house from 1770 and a Union Jack flying from one of them. Quite surprising how much of the British influence is still apparent. We had a nice dinner and planned our next day. Back on the fourth floor we found our suite which was comfortable but very basic. The next morning we found our favourite breakfast spot – a cafe which had two “u” shaped benches and stools along either side. You ordered a 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 and got a cup of coffee or in my case tea on entry as you sat down. Office workers and tradesmen came and went and carried on a familiar banter with the staff. They did a take away service as well. Fully provisioned we set off for the visitor centre a huge building purpose built to inform on the city from its foundation through the revolution as capital of the United 13 States up to the present day. we were lining up to get our tickets to Independence hall where the colonies met to determine the future of the colonies as British subjects where the constitution was signed and the declaration of independence was signed.
Independence Hall
The city is all about the heritage and formation of the USA – most interesting. We saw the liberty bell and some of the other heritage buildings relating to that time.
Liberty Bell
Our bus tour the previous day had singled out the Penn University Archaeological Museum and the Mutter (pronounced “Mooter”) Museum of medical specimens. The first museum (there are three major main universities in the city itself) had vast quantities of artefacts as it conducts its own digs world wide but most interesting to me was the information on the Zuni, Hoppi, Navajos and Apache tribes of New Mexico and Colorado. Then on to the Mutter and thank God we had lunch before going there. Gruesome specimens in jars, skeletons and pock mark faces. For example the cast of the skeletons of conjoined twins who lived conjoined at the belly button had wives and 21 children and the intestine of an individual who had 42lbs of faeces in this blocked intestine. Very interesting but not nice! The next day was time for some shopping therapy on foot so we walk over to Reading Terminal Markets which is similar to South Melbourne or Phrahan Markets but located in an old disused railway terminal in the centre of town onto which they have tacked a modern exhibition centre and hotel. Around the corner is city hall but wait there’s Macys. Now that is an impressive building with the world’s largest organ still operating inside. But there is no one to play the organ today. After therapy we proceed at somewhat of a dead end (tired from trying to do too much) and we walk past the South East Pennsylvania Transport Authority building and see an old trolley car in the basement so in we go and we end up in the subway riding to 69th street in West Philly. Oh dear some of this is not pretty and the people begging. We witness what we thought was a genuine person in need of help being evicted from the car by SEPTA personnel. Back in the city we felt like doing a movie and saw “EMPEROR” with Matthew Fox and Tommy Lee Jones. Good show. We had dinner at National Mechanics and then home to bed. Another busy day coming up as we are travelling to Washington. Next morning after breakfast at our favourite spot we returned to the rail station bound for Washington DC.
An uneventful journey through boring country side but I had plenty of time to continue this story. We arrived at Union station. Shit! It is huge and impressive on the scale of Russian buildings in St. Petersburg and just as ornate. This is going to be some town if this is just the railway station. A short cab trip over to K Street and Pennsylvania Ave (that’s right they have named their streets after the alphabet, the states, and the numerals – hardly seems that original). The Sofitel Hotel was also impressive with the staff thinking they were in Paris greeting us in French but the luxury and service was outstanding. Our room was on the top floor but no view except we could see all the other apartments without a view. We had a huge king size bed, glorious shower – every thing that we did not have in Philly. Once again it is a great location. We could not waste any time so off to the Concierge and book the night tour and a play for Saturday at the Ronald Reagan Centre. Then out into the open air – wow! It must have been -2C. Rugged up, we went on a walk and said hello to our neighbours (within 300m) the Obamas. A kindly coloured family living in a plain white house – lots of fuss though with blokes on the roof with binoculars and guns.
White House
They told us there would be a good service for Palm Sunday at their church – St Johns just across the park and they would be mighty pleased to see us there on Sunday. We said we would think about it.
St John’s Church
Down the road is the Renwick gallery and around the corner this bloody great obelisk comes into view. So we wandered around made friends with some furry locals and after walking for a couple of hours and seeing all these huge sandstone buildings home for a rest before the big night. The night tour started at 7.30pm -2C and a 25 knot breeze giving a wind chill lowering the temperature to -8C. Capitol Hill was first and after that every major monument in the city. If it had lights on at night we visited it. So by 11.00pm we return to the hotel. The tour was far too long the commentary very amateurish and the bloke expected a tip – he was back on the job after doing something else for 6 months and had not rehearsed his dialogue. Still it was a good way to see the sights even though I was frozen to the bone. The thing they don’t tell you is that most of these monuments and public buildings are a great distance from bus parking – we walked a few further miles that night.
Capitol Hill
A late start the next day and we took the circulator bus over to Georgetown – an older part of town and very much worth the visit. We walked through the main street (the same silly naming system applied) and down to the Potomac River where the old wharves had been converted to parks and walk ways. Following our noses we came across the John F Kennedy Performing Arts Centre – a bit hard to miss as it was two city blocks in size. Just fantastic but well off any pedestrian track so when Kerry saw a shuttle bus we jumped aboard where ever it may go and ended up at George Washington University Hospital and two blocks from the circulator bus stop. Siesta time so back to the hotel – we were going to the theatre. That night we made our way to the RR theatre to see “Capitol Steps” to find out it is a political satire that has been going on for more than 30 years satirising the government and parties and a lot of other things in song. Fantastic! It was so slick and parodied every bit of the stupidity you read about in the papers – the pirates of Somalia plea for financial aid was just side splittingly hilarious. Another late night! So what do we do the next day Sunday we thought we would take up the invitation from those nice folks at the white house and we went to church. After church a healthy breakfast at the hotel then we get the metro out to old Alexandria town. In the beginning Maryland and Virginia were to provide the land for Washington so the port of Alexandria was handed over to the Feds but Virginia changed its mind and took all that part south of the Potomac River back including Arlington and Alexandria. On the way we dropped into Arlington Cemetery, and saw the memorial to women in war saw innumerable headstones and the Kennedy memorial. I don’t think he would have been that famous if he lived. Then we went onto King Street at Alexandria (finally some proper names). Older than Georgetown and in some respects prettier. After walking a few miles around there we headed back to the hotel and rest. Feet up on that big bed order room service and relax.
Arlington Cemetery
Last day with our flight to JFK in NY at 7.00pm so we went to the Newseum. This is a museum on the reporting of the news starting with books from Aristotle to Magna Carta and part of the history of the printing press and television. Some areas are also interactive so in some respects similar to the Museum of the Moving Image. One last visit to the Sofitel to get our luggage then off to Ronald Reagan DCA and our flight to NY and London. Over night a snow depression has moved in so guess what our flight is delayed so our connector to London will be missed. At least we have not got to pay for the cab driver to wait with us this time. We managed to catch a connector to London at 12.00 midnight arriving in London at 11.00am approximately and a two day stay at the Kensington Close Hotel.
Unpack the luggage and extract the diamontes collected in NY to send on to Frances. We picked up the package from Babycoe for Carly. Clearly we were not going to fit these into our suitcases. Down to the Post Office we send the diamontes and then onto the underground to go to Harrods. We had lost the greeting cards when losing our travel folder so Kerry wanted to replace them. Very tired so room service and off to sleep. Next day a late start but a big day planned. Into town we visit the Shard. Viewing platforms start at 69th floor and go up to 72nd floor of this unusual building. The railways look like toys from this height. Unfortunately the day was over cast and visibility is not very good and the camera battery flat.
The Shard
Next we went to see the Textile and Fashion Museum. Unexpectedly it was about a bloke that knitted and not what we expected at all. We then went into the West End planning to see a show. We settled on “the Thirty Nine Steps” and after buying our tickets we went to a Casino near by – Kerry won again. We had dinner at the Slug and Lettuce Pub followed by the show which is an unusual performance by 4 actors two of whom played multiple parts from secret agents to highland inn keepers and coppers. Very funny! Next day repack again for the flight home. Then we fill in time with a walk through Kensington Gardens -wind blowing and temperate VERY COLD – but we find a nice restaurant in Westbourne Gardens called Cote so we settle in for a long lunch after which we walk over to Portobello Rd and then catch the underground back to the Hotel. Now the wearisome return journey begins.
After what seems a lifetime of travel we are met by Kerry Hayes at Brissie Airport. A great holiday which once again demonstrated how lovely Brisbane is as a place to live.
glendon1954 