Month: September 2014

The Retirees Go Abroad – Somewhere different – Lincolnshire

The Retirees Go Abroad

Somewhere different – Lincolnshire

It is a grey day. The forecast is for scattered showers across the midlands and the forecast looks pretty accurate. In addition there is a grey mist hanging just above the ground so all in all a great day to stay in bed or visit Lincolnshire. So we decide to visit. But where and what?

We have joined the National Trust and this is proving to be a great investment. So I hop onto the web site and select to visit Tattershall Castle at Tattershall in the north-west and Belton House in nearby Belton Village.

Although Lincoln itself is only 35 mins from Nottingham these places are in the eastern side of the county so we had a 1.5 hour drive to our first stop at Tattershall. Lincolnshire is very agricultural and most of our drive we passed open fields of fertile looking soil going off to the horizon (shrouded in mist today). It has the appearance of being very flat with villages spread out so that the farms appear much larger than down south. I don’t know if that is true but the country side we drove through seemed largely to be farmland. There were a few changes such as the RAF bases (RAF Cranwell RAF Waddington) we passed on the way, an air museum which we will have to visit next time and RAF Coningsby from the turrets of Tattershall Castle. The RAF seems to like Lincolnshire and I have attached a link to the official website of RAF Lincolnshire museums for those interested – http://www.raf-lincolnshire.info/museums.htm.

The road was good but the mist did not leave us and we passed through some small showers/ spits of rain. We arrived at Tattershall around 11.15 am which is good timing as the Castle is not open til 11.00 am. The car park had at least a dozen cars in it surprising for what seemed one of the more remote places we have visited. We walked passed the lawn bowls green into the church yard. Wow!

A surprisingly large church stood there in front of us –the Collegiate Church of the Holy Trinity Tattershall. “The Church of the Holy Trinity at Tattershall was completed in 1500 AD having been endowed, in 1439 by King Henry VI, with Collegiate status. A Collegiate Church is one that has attached to it, a Chapter of canons and prebendaries – priests whose livings are paid through endowments and by the income from land or tithes.” http://www.httf.org/history.html.

From the moment you walked in you knew this was going to be in its original state. The sign at the entrance was the give-away. Inside you could see this was a grand church although somewhat raw by other standards. Still it had a substantial presence and was clearly loved by its community and the local bats who roost in the exterior (and sometimes the interior) of the church. It had an obvious bell tower but the cords were just out of reach. I suspect only part of the church is now used as a consecrated church. The web site above is well worth a visit and I hope my photos give you some idea of the presence of this church. We bought some local baked wares and Kerry found an “antiquities” stall purchasing some bits and pieces for the 50p each.

Welcome
Collegiate Church of the Holy Trinity
The ancient front door
the campanologists ropes
the main chapel in the church
unusual wooden ceiling

Walking from the church we passed under shady trees and through an open area across a timber footbridge into a building called the guardhouse (it may have once served such a purpose but today it is a ticket office gift shop and visitors centre). Immediately in front of us but probably 200 meters away is the only remaining portion of the castle, a six story tower that was once the centre of a fortified castle surrounded by two moats. One of the moats exists today whilst only part of the outer moat remains. Built in 1434 by Ralph Lord Cromwell Treasurer to Henry VI (he also served in the army of Henry IV at Agincourt) it was saved from complete demolition (and pillaging by American entrepreneurs) by Lord Curzon in 1911 and bequeathed to the newly formed National Trust in 1925. When Cromwell died in 1456, the castle was initially inherited by his niece, Joan Bouchier, but was confiscated by the Crown after her husband’s demise. Tattershall castle was recovered in 1560 by Sir Henry Sidney, who sold it to Lord Clinton, later Earl of Lincoln, and it remained with the Earls of Lincoln until 1693. It passed to the Fortesques, but then fell into neglect until bought by Lord Curzon. It remains today one of the three most important surviving brick castles of the mid-fifteenth century.

As we approached the tower we noted that there are foundations for the old kitchens in the moat. These kitchens were connected to the castle along with the guest apartments, the enclosing walls and watch towers. There are three doors at ground level the middle one leads to the basement where the castle servants lived and provisions were stored. The right hand door leads to the parlour where estate business was conducted by the Lord’s warden (tenants paid rent etc). The third doorway on the left is the stair case to the upper floors. On the first floor is the Great Hall where the Lord would wine and dine and entertain guests, the second floor was the Audience Chamber where only special; guests would be entertained, the third floor was the Private Chamber where the Lord retired for the night and the family lived, the fourth floor is the roof and the fifth floor the turrets. The sixth floor is the below ground servants quarters.

In the basement was the well for the castle, on the first and third floors there were garderobes (a medieval toilet – the garderobe on the third floor included the dressing room as it was believed the smell of human urine drove fleas and lice from clothing and this configuration is believed to have led to the word ”wardrobe”). On the second floor a dovecote was installed in one of the anterooms in the 18th century (a dovecote is a nesting construction so that the occupants of the castle had fresh eggs and meat when other sources were not available. For more information go to http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/tattershall-castle/.

the Gatehouse
Bridge from Gatehouse to Tower grounds
the Tower
the basement
the Parlour
Memorial to Lord Curzon
the Great Hall
Fire place in the Great Hall
the Audience Chamber
the Dovecote
the Main Living area
Tower defences
Looking toward the Gatehouse and Collegiate Church

The visit to the castle was very interesting. Belton House however was entirely different. Built between 1685 and 1689 for Sir John Brownlow–Cust (they did not like the “Cust” so they dropped it despite the added wealth that marriage brought to the family) and often cited as the quintessential country house with a 1300 acre estate and deer herds. Unfortunately only the house was open and the below stairs tour would have to wait for another day. So we keyed in the post code for Belton House and Tommy took us right there – as though it was still 1700. Because Tommy took us to the front gate which these days is locked we alighted and walked the last 1.6 kilometers to the house only to find there is a new entrance from Belton Village to a car park directly alongside the house. We were not the only ones fooled by our GPS.

Even so it was pleasant walking along the avenue. It was still overcast although the mist had lifted about 3.00pm so it was cool walking along watching the deer frolic in front of us. The grounds were lush and the deer prolific. In the distance we could see a grand house in a green sea with figures running around in white. It was a cricket match. Apparently the local cricket team counts the ground in front of the house as their field.

We circumnavigated the pitch and climbed the front stairs into the marble entrance hall filled with family portraits. The house has three storeys above ground and one below. Two storeys are open to visit and the below storey is accessible only by tour. We moved into the saloon with more portraits of the family, to the Viscount Tryconel Room, to the Chapel Drawing room. Here in this room is a Delander long case clock made in the 18th century showing not only the time but has an in built calendar – a Julian calendar (a bit like a betamax video recorder wrong technology). Beside this room is the chapel which is actually in the basement and we were standing in the organ room overlooking the chapel. The organ retracted into the wall. In the Chapel Drawing room we had the opportunity to see the original colour of the room (a brilliant Lapis blue with gold and white flecks) and the degraded colour after 300 years.

In the Blue Dressing Room we saw the Lapis cabinet of 21 draws two of which were secret drawers. Italian made it is completely decorated in lapis lazuli, the favoured precious stone of the Pharohs. There was also a portrait of Richard Brownlow founder of the family fortunes and the Chief Prothonotary of Queen Elizabeth I’s Court of Common Pleas (principal clerk of the court). There are 3 main staircases in the house (not counting the hidden staff stair cases) and at this point we entered the Little Marble Hall and went upstairs. They did not forget the Cust family altogether as there is a bust of Harry in the West Stair case

Upstairs we saw the bedroom which is a bit unusual in these old country houses. There was the Queen’s bedroom and the Windsor bedroom with ensuite (Prince Charles stayed here while training at the RAF base at Waddington and I found two “toby” jugs in this room one portraying George V and the other Winston Churchill). There was the library and then the study which looked like a second library, the Red Drawing Room and then down the west staircase to the tapestry room but we could not go into the breakfast room (they had hosted a showing of the silver ware from No 10 Downing St and had not cleaned up after 17,000 people visited the display.

We then ventured out to the stables (now the shop, café, book shop etc etc,) and into the ornate Italian garden. Like all of these gardens just beautiful. The topiary was fascinating as it waved through the trees with no particular shape but joining them all together as a green wall. The Orangery (hothouse) was filled with sub – tropical plants and behind it was a formal Dutch garden. Hidden in the trees was the family church and crypt. All the Brownlow’s are there including one pair who died in 1670’s.

We needed a cup of coffee and to sit down for a rest because we now had the walk back to the car. The deer had coalesced into a larger herd but still there were the odd few rambling about as we walked back to THISTLE. The sun had finally come out we warmed up walking to the car. Our trip had ended and we now had 34 miles (yes they still use miles in the UK) to go to return to Nottingham.

Only 1.6 klm to go
Hows zat
Thistle is down there somewhere
One of the early Brownlows
Looking into the Chapel
compare the colours
Lapis Lazuli cabinet
Some of the crockery
Winston and George “toby” mugs
A prince’s bed
the Tapestries
the Entry
the Italian Garden
Some of the flowers
From the Orangerie
Some more of the flowers
Part of the topiary wall
In the church – the 17 th century crypt

 

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy – Milan/Milano – Farewell

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy

Milan/Milano – Farewell

Friday we decided to try the train to go to Milano. Our hotel offers free airport transfers to Malpensa Airport. The train station at the airport provides express transport to Cardarno station in Milano. So we went to the airport on the shuttle and caught the train – 24 euros for both of us and it only takes 29 minutes. No trouble with the train but when we arrived in Milano it is not easy to find the tourism office. We got some directions which led to us purchasing an underground pass for the day (only 4.50 euros). We travelled to Duomo metro station then walked aimlessly till directed once again to the tourism office just near the Castello Sforzesco, just around the corner from Cardarno railway station. I said we wandered aimlessly.

So armed with city maps we go to the Sforzesco Castle.
“Historical background
Along with the Cathedral – Milan’s most famous and much beloved monument – the big Castle is linked to the vicissitudes and dramatic events that the city has been experiencing over the past centuries. For many years, in fact, it has represented a symbol of the power in the hands of the Dukes, as well as of the foreign dominators. Only at the beginning of the 20th century the Castle assumed its distinctive role, becoming a place of culture, which hosted numerous Lombard art collections. The Castle was named after Francesco Sforza, who transformed it into a ducal residence in 1450. But its origins date back to the second half of the 14th century, at the time of Galeazzo II Visconti. ”

For more information go to http://www.milanocastello.it/ing/home.html

We stumbled through the castle grounds (bloody cobblestones maybe romantic or authentic but very hard on the feet) – there does not appear to be much of the military castle left now and the skeleton of the castle now holds multiple museums. I have taken photos of some of the features of the castle but it did not hold much interest for me. The internal walls are pock marked with holes which appeared to be for either ventilation of the passage ways behind or weapons windows. Either way this has been a significant fortress and center of the city with three or more circles of walls outside the main fortress. I hope my photos tell a story. Whilst wandering through in the midst of the castle we found a playful cat chasing lizards in a fountain in the wall. Then another cat and then more and more cats. I think there is a very playful and productive Tom at work here.

Then we walked back to the Cathedral Duomo. Magnificent grand and impressive. Facing Palassio Reale the cathedral started in 1386 and it evolved over the centuries. From the ornate finish on the outside I expected something far more ornate inside but instead it is just huge and dark – not very exciting to my mind. The thing that took our attention most was the floor and the variety of marbles creating amazing tiles for the floor. Having seen enough we headed over to the Galleria Victorio Emanuele II for a spot of shopping – ouch! The shops were very expensive and this worked up my appetite for a spot of lunch. We found a very nice little place in Via Marino and whilst enjoying lunch we worked out we were close to the Museo Teatrale alla Scala.

“The museum, which is adjacent to the opera house in the Piazza della Scala, was opened on 8 March 1913 and was based on a large private collection which had been purchased at auction two years earlier, with funds raised both from government and private sources. The displays include costumes, set designs, autograph scores, and musical instruments of historical interest as well as paintings of musicians and actors, and a range of related paraphernalia including precious ceramic figures portraying characters from the commedia dell’arte, and board games which used to be played in the theatre’s foyer.” Wikipedia

If you want to read more about Duomo then go to http://www.duomomilano.it/en/
and the theatre http://www.teatroallascala.org/en/discover/museum/museum.html

Included below are my photos which include the Steinway gifted to Franz Lizt  by  the manufacturers which was later subject of litigation to save it for the museum.

We did find something not on the tourist trail and out of the ordinary. Just near to the Duomo was an old building that had been used as a hall of justice from the mid 14th century by the Milanese and later conquerors including the Hapsburgs (Austro-Hungarian empire)and is amongst a group of buildings all with different building styles around one of the city’s old well heads. Oh yes and I found this delightful “Jolly Bar” (don’t let the innocent ice cream signs fool you) and they still use drop sided trams. There may be a lot more churches and museums in Milan but I could not get excited about them or the city unfortunately.

Photos.

The next day Kerry, after her disappointment in Milan, decided she needed some retail therapy. We were fairly unsuccessful in finding a local venue to quench the appetite for shopping so we returned to the hotel some-what frustrated. As it approach dinner time, we had to make a decision about where to dine. The hotel had been spectacularly unspectacular so we ambled down to the village. There was certainly more life in the village than the Sunday we arrived and we found a cosy and cheap pizza restaurant to dine and watch the world go by and contemplate the return journey to the UK the following day.

We had chosen to stay in a hotel near Malpensa Airport which we thought would give us best access to the lakes. We had flown into the airport at Begamo (which of course is not called Begamo Airport just to make it difficult when consulting google maps to plan your journey) so we had to drive for an hour across Milan and hope the traffic was not a problem. Well early Sunday morning in Italy no one is on the roads so we arrived two hours earlier than required. Murphy’s Law! Isn’t that the way of things.

We had an uneventful flight to East Midlands and decided we would try the bus back to Long Eaton. It was magic and only 7 pound for the two of us. A lot different to 25 pound for the early morning taxi.

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy – The Borromeo Trifecta

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy

The Borromeo Trifecta
As we travelled back to our hotel we passed above Arona and I happened to spot Rocco di Angera on the other side of the lake. Doing some research on the internet we decided we had to visit the Rocco and complete the Borromeo trifecta. Thursday we drove over to Angera where we spotted on top of the highest point in town the Rocco.

“Rocca Borromeo at Angera.
Before 1227, the castle belonged to the Della Torre family, who lost the possession to the Visconti after the Battle of Desio (1277). In 1449, it passed into the ownership of the Borromeo family. It once belonged to the Visconti family, beginning with Bernabò Visconti and his wife, Beatrice della Scala. But it was purchased by the Borromeo family who expanded and refurbished the castle over the centuries. It still belongs to the Borromeo family. It is best known for its Hall of Justice (Sala di Giustizia) which still contains its original late 13th century fresco depicting the victory of Ottone Visconti, archbishop of Milan, at the Battle of Desio. The castle suffered damage during bombardment in the Second World War.

The castle also contains the Museo della Bambola (Doll Museum), founded in 1988 by the wish of Princess Bona Borromeo Arese, and displays over a thousand dolls made between the 18th century and the present day. Wikipedia”

We started by walking up to the gatehouse and then onto the barbican and through the main gate but before doing so we took a look at the view from the walls of the castle. In the stable we found an old and large wine press. Inside the castle is the major museum of the history of dolls. Mixed amongst the museum are elements of the original castle but as you progress through you find some of the castle furniture and then we came across the hall of Justice. What a find and some of the original frescos still on the walls. Then there is the staircase up to the roof and the watchtower above the roof. Truly amazing. I hope my photos do it justice.

Photos

After Angera it was still early so we decided to go back to Como 40 minutes away. After programming Tommy, we drove off and I had a strange feeling that we had passed that way before. We stopped and checked Tommy. Somehow Tommy was taking us to Stresa and not Como. Como was now 1 hour 40 minutes away. Oh well a few extra euros for tolls but otherwise no real harm done.

We got to Como and it was lunch time. There is a nice little restaurant in the main square outside the Cathedral so after a healthy lunch we strolled the streets of the old city finishing off what we had started two days before.

Photos

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy -Two out of Three (marvels) ain’t bad

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy

Two out of Three (marvels) ain’t bad

It’s Wednesday. Roberto and Sue are off to the Dolomites. We are going in the opposite direction to Lake Maggiore and the three marvels of Maggiore – Isola Madre, Isola Bella and Isola Pescatore. Well that is what Roberto told us but in truth Pescatore is another tourist trap with little of culture history or architecture to recommend it. If you want to buy a T shirt or go for a swim its fine but otherwise it is not a marvel. The third marvel is Rocca di Angera.

To understand why these rocky islands have been turned into marvels you have to understand the history of the current owners. Let me introduce the Borromeo family. “The aristocratic Borromeo family were merchants at San Miniato around 1300 and became bankers at Milan after 1370. Vitaliano de’ Vitaliani, who acquired the name of Borromeo from his uncle Giovanni, became count of Arona in 1445. His descendants played important roles in the politics of the Duchy of Milan and as cardinals in the Catholic Reformation. In 1916 the head of the family was granted the title Prince of Angera.” “The family has owned the Borromean Islands since the 16th century. The islands have beautiful gardens. Two of the islands have grand palaces, still owned by the family. Vitaliano Borromeo built a summer palace on the Isola Bella for his wife Isabella between 1650 and 1671 which was later enlarged by cardinal Giberto III. (1615–1672) and count Vitaliano VI. (1620–1690). Count Carlo IV. (1657–1734) had the garden terraces added. The family still owns the majority of the Borromean Islands.”(Source – Wikipedia).

Pescatore was a fishing village and now one large shop/ rest stop for tourists. Rocco on the other hand was a fortified castle which together with Rocco di Arone (a fortified castle on the opposite shore destroyed by Napoleon when invading Lombardy) controlled the place where the lake drains into a river. We visited Isola Madre and Isola Bella on Wednesday and Rocco di Angera on Thursday. We chose to travel to Stresa and to catch a water taxi to each of the 3 islands for 15 euros each one way. The taxi (looked like a Venetian canal cruiser) takes you to Madre and gives you 2 to 2 .5 hours to view this island and its palace. I formed the view that the taxi operators want you to go to Pescatore where they hope you will spend your money. I wonder if the taxi operators don’t get any additional revenue from Madre or Bella hence the limited time on Madre. At Pescatore the taxis call every half hour to take you to Bella with the last taxi leaving at 4.30,

Isola Madra

“Isola Madre, at 220 m wide and 330 m long, is the largest island of the Isole Borromee archipelago which falls within the Italian part of the Alpine Lake Maggiore, in the Province of Verbano Cusio Ossola, Piedmont.” Wikipedia

We boarded our Venetian canal cruiser and glided across the lake to Madre. As you approach this little rock by boat the first thing you notice is the palace covering just about the whole island. A little closer and you see a gift shop and restaurant called La Piratera (and like the pirates of old they will rob you blind) sitting hard up against the water but that is the only commercialism you will encounter. Sure you have to pay to get in to the gardens and the palace but you will appreciate this is a moderate cost for what you see. Try to purchase a ticket which gets you into Madre and Bella (35 euros) and save 5 euros and unless you are very interested in the botanical information on the garden don’t worry about the programme.

The walk to the palace is cool and relaxing with outstanding Lake views. Plants from all over the world are in a garden designed for the leisure of the stroller. Australian casuarinas to black bamboo are some of the strange plants found here. There are white peacocks and other large birds roaming around and an aviary but the most amazing piece was a large Tibetan Kashmir cypress (Cupressus cashmeriana) which appears to have been planted in 1862 following a trip to the Himalayas. Until 2006 it had grown steadily to its grand height towering over the palace. Then a whirlwind uprooted the tree but rather than pull it out the family replanted it and supported it to where it continues to survive to day.

We toured inside the palace but photos were not permitted. Unlike other palaces I have visited this had the feeling of openness and light, coolness and relaxing surroundings. It has not always been a home. There is a lot of evidence of gun emplacements and guard points. One of the surprises was the marionette theatre and the variety of the marionettes in the house. These were for the entertainment of the family and their guests but I was to be surprised even more at Isola Bella.

The island structures are completed with the family chapel.

Photos

Isola Pescatore

When we arrived at Madre there was only one other couple with us but the numbers quickly grew. When we sailed for Pescatore the boat was full as was the island. It was lunch time so we went looking for a restaurant. We crossed the island to get away from the crowds and chose an outdoor umbrella restaurant for no other reason than it looked inviting. Unfortunately looks are deceiving and we waited for 1 hour to get a salad and a pizza. Like most of this island this was disappointing.

There was an interesting small church on the island and some interesting houses and lanes. The church had a cemetery at the back and all of the tombstones had a photo of the deceased – something I have not seen before. Amongst my photos you will see a Jolly Roger and I thought that was the definition of Pescatore. So we sailed for Isola Bella.

Photos

More alleys
the Jolly Roger on Pescatore
Jumble of alleys – Pescatore
Where we should have had lunch
Pretty vista of Pecatore
the Pirates lagoon – gift shops

Isola Bella

As you approach you are struck by how large this palace is and how much of the island it consumes. Unlike Madre this is palatial as well as grand. No photos were permitted but like most laws and speed limits in Italy everyone ignores them so you will see my photos below.

At the entrance there is an enormous hall with a domed ceiling. I got some of the best views of Pescatore and Madre from the windows of the palace. Then there were the marionettes and the theatre settings. These were just wonderful. I have given you just three examples in my photos.

The gardens were very different from Madre but just as wonderful. At one end is a wall of statues and fountains which run back down to the lake in 10 terraces. I found a pond in which there was a frog croaking but I could not find the frog so I photographed one of the water Lilly flowers instead. But the unique thing was the grottos.

Rooms in the palace decorated to look like underwater grottos. I have taken photos and they will give you an inkling of the amazing scenes.

Photos

We got back to Stresa about 4.00 pm and I noticed on the way back that there was a cable car running from a building at the wharf up into the hills. We investigated and not really understanding what we were doing we parted with 40 euros to ride the cable car and do something else when we got to the top.

The trip started very quickly travelling by cable car up to Mottarone 1385 metres above the lakes. We could see the three islands then the whole of the lake but we were nowhere near the top yet. We changed cable cars and went up to 1491 meters where we took a chair lift to the top. I have no idea of the height at the top – suffice it to say it was high and above 1500 metres.

From the top we were able to see the whole of the lakes district for 360 degrees. We also saw the Alpyland fun park. For a further 5 euros each we took a trip on the bob sled ride on rails. 1.2 klms of twisting down hill track and a bloody steep hill at that. Threatened with the loss of my manhood I drove the bob sled with Kerry in front of me and kept the sled to a reasonable pace (he he he heeee – she screamed her head off). I got a few photos which will give you the idea and show you the scenes from the top. Truly magnificent and well worth the cost.

Photos

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy – Where are the rich and famous

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy

Where are the Rich and Famous?

Tuesday and our second day in Italy. Roberto is touring around Lake Como and going to Belliago by ferry. George Clooney is supposed to have residence somewhere near here which might be of interest to some people so it did not upset my day that he remained reclusive. Having arranged with our Italian mate to meet at Bellagio, I plugged in “Ferry Belliago” into the GPS (which we call “Tommy” as it is a TomTom) and we set sail. Now I was not expecting that Tommy would take me literally so when Tommy announced “after 800 metres turn left and take the ferry” I was astounded. But sure enough there it was a car ferry to Bellagio.

We parked and for 10 euros each return we boarded as walk-ons arriving at Belliago 15 minutes before the bus tour/boat tour. Belliago is located on the western shore of Lake Como and a tourist trap with expensive shops set in an old village of many stairs (it is all very hilly). Strolling through the village was interesting once we got away from the shops. One of the interesting buildings was the local church which had an amazing interior. The exterior is not so exciting. But I got an interesting photo of the back of the church which I have included below.

Roberto and Sue turned up with the rest of their tour about 20 minutes after us and we then started exploring the remaining areas of Bellagio. Kerry and Sue found an oversized cork screw outside one of the many “caves” at Bellagio.

Lunch was partaken in the back streets as the lake front is overdone. After lunch I found the oldest building in Bellagio behind the church – the only remaining part of the 12th century watch tower. There were some exquisite gardens, beautiful vistas, and ancient vestiges of an elegant past. Time went quickly and like Cinderella, Roberto and Sue rushed back to their “coach” to join their tour.

We returned to the other side of the lake and drove back toward Como. On the way we stopped at another village. Argegno is on the lake and has a stream running through it. Colourful and quaint we felt compelled to walk through before taking a milkshake at the Hotel Argegno. Some photos follow.

Roberto (being first generation Australian from Italian heritage) had expressed the view that there was nothing worth looking at in Como. We thought we would check it out for ourselves. So when we drove into a central Como car park alongside the remnants of an old walled city then to find in the basement of the car park Roman foundation for the original Roman village founded in or around 1 BC (it was moved from the hills to the site of these foundations on the order of Julius Caesar) we had to disagree. There is evidence of an earlier Bronze Age village present also. I have included some photos of the remaining towers, the foundations and a massive cathedral constructed in 1397 on the centre square. There is also examples of 16 th century residences still in use today. As well it is situated on the lake with very accessible public parks and gardens close to the city centre. We found at least two other churches in the old city precinct and just outside the city is a funicular. So I have no idea what city Roberto visited to find nothing of interest.

 

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy – Up, Up, and Away

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy

Up, Up and Away

Our first morning in Lake Como. After 3 to 4 hours sleep, I awoke to a cloudy sky and irregular showers. The sunny day Sunday had promised was gone but we had made our plans to meet Roberto and they could not be changed. To add insult to injury when we entered onto the highway we were met by a car park. Some multi vehicle collision was holding up all traffic (see photo below) and in true Italian style we reversed back through the entry lane to try a new direction and as we crossed over the highway the blockage had been cleared and traffic was flowing again.

We finally started our journey for Lugano on the lake of the same name in Switzerland. There are tolls on most autostrada in Italy and the A9 is a set 2.20 euro. But the Swiss do it differently. At the end of the A9 we were met by the Swiss border control. They were not interested in our passport. They only wanted to collect 35 euros road tax. (Note to self – Switzerland charges a 70 euro toll to use their toll roads for one year and this toll reduces to half at June). So the cost for the joy of visiting Roberto – 35 euro. Even though we were delayed twice we still managed to beat Roberto with his friend Sue into the old city. After the usual ritual – a cuppa and a transfer of gossip -we decided to find the funicular to the top of Monte Bre for views of Lugano and the lake. We found a disused funicular and on the basis that I had read on the internet that you caught one line to join the main line to the top, we climbed a couple of hundred stairs to find that we were way off target. But we got some great photos. We decided to grab a cab and asked to be taken to the funicular but went not to Monte Bre funicular but Monte San Salvador Funicular – I did not even know there were two funiculars in the town. Nevertheless we bought tickets which included lunch at the summit. Two (2) funicular journeys later we were 813 meters above sea level and in a white out – low cloud prevented us taking in the view. So we went to lunch which turned out to be pretty good. We had hoped the cloud would lift after lunch but no such luck and Roberto and Sue had a bus to catch. On a clear day the views would be fantastic. An excursion I can recommend.

Roberto and Sue rejoined their tour and we then drove up to Mont Bre. Kerry drove and we both were very nervous about this trip. Monte Bre is higher than Monte San Salvador and the road is winding with an ever decreasing road width. Further because it is higher we drove through the cloud with oncoming traffic just appearing in front of us. We arrived in Monte Bre with a feeling of relief and trepidation as we had to drive back down.

Monte Bre is an ancient village of stone houses. Rough paved lanes join the houses into a village. The village has been home to a number of renowned artists who lived and worked in the village and an outdoor walking museum of their art and others artists has been developed. We walked around the outdoor museum which is in the lanes of the village with art posted on the exterior of houses. Kerry was fascinated with the architecture of the village particularly the old and its integration with the newer (there was nothing new). If you wish to read more go to www.lugano-montebre.ch.

Suffice it to say I drove down the hill and we found out that the funicular was not operating that day. In fact we witnessed the operators testing the funicular on our return trip. We had decided to visit Roberto and Sue at their hotel in Saranno for dinner. Saranno is a bigger village and the Grand Hotel (where they were staying) in Saranno is a true 4 star hotel when compared with our Best Western. We had aperitifs at the bar and a pizza at a cafe near the Hotel. The cafe was in a derelict looking building beside a pile of broken concrete at the railway station. Cheap in every sense. So it was home to Best Western and a good nights sleep. I have included photos of our trip up Monte San Salvador and trip up Monte Bre:

 

Lake Como Italy – The Trouble with cheap airfares…..

Retirees go Abroad – Lake Como Italy

The Trouble with cheap airfares…..

Sunday morning and the alarm goes off at 4.30am. We are prepared to dress and catch the taxi we have booked for 5.00am to go to East Midlands Airport for our flight out at 7.40am. However despite the best laid plans we did not read all the endorsements on our tickets so we went through security to learn that we were supposed to get our tickets endorse with our passport check before going through security. This would not have been a problem if a particular Greek family had not delayed our clearance through security because they ignored every possible preparation before going through security – they had scissors, knives, aerosols and liquids all through their carry-on luggage. Now East Midlands may be a rural airport but it has 23 gates and during school holidays is really busy so our margin for error evaporated and instead of quietly having breakfast before catching the plane we were breaking our necks to get to the gate.

Oh a point to note even if you miss the passport check as we did, you can still get the check performed at the gate but they don’t like doing so.

The airport trauma behind us, we settled in for our flight to Bergamo. Ryanair is a true no frills airline and we purchased breakfast taking turns to eat because of the lack of space.

Arrived at Bergamo and picked up the car. Ooh an upgrade. A BMW station wagon. It is twice as big as the car Kerry wants so not a good start. Anyway we made it to our hotel Best Western at Cardano Al Campo by accident (spotted a sign on the side of the road) and at first when we first saw the building we were quite impressed. But it was deceiving.

The room was large and spacious but the carpet has seen a better day. We unpacked and went down to the bar for some lunch. Well the porter was called to serve us in the bar and the bar snacks were lasagne or cannelloni microwaved to death. Not a good start. We spent the afternoon walking around Cardano Al Campo centre (note to self – don’t expect anything to be open in an Italian village between 12.00 and 4.00 on a Sunday afternoon). But we did find a bar run by a Chinese expat from Tsin Jing and the local drunk who wanted to make friends and take us to dinner. We politely passed on the opportunity.

We decided to have dinner at the hotel which was a big mistake. We had the buffet which was cold when it was intended to be hot the fish was full of bones and the choice very limited. Most disappointing. After dinner we went to our room to plan our meeting with Roberto who was going to Lugano on a bus tour. But first I had a teleconference with Australia for three hours at midnight.

Photos of Cardona Al Campo on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

Main St looking north
Main St looking south
Council Chambers to the square
Local Church

Tudor Halls – Sudbury Hall Sudbury Derbyshire

August 22, 2014
Tudor Halls – Sudbury Hall Sudbury Derbyshire

As we leave Calke Abbey we realise we have not had lunch so we decide that we would go to Sudbury Hall 30 mins away as there was likely to be a pub open in a larger village. Well of course when we get to Sudbury and visit the Vernon Arms there the kitchen closed 30 mins beforehand. No time to lose we thought we would go to the Hall and its café.

This hall is one of the finest restoration mansions as opposed to the stabilised decline we had just seen at Calke Abbey. In the 16th century there was a marriage between the heiress to the Sudbury estate and Sir John Vernon. This house was then built by George Vernon between 1660 and 1680 and is noted for its grand staircase (strangely not located in the centre of the hall but at one end (the west I guess as an east wing was built on the other end by later owners toward the end of the 19th century). It also is noted for its Long Gallery with portraits of various people but particularly Charles II’s mistresses (one cheeky one had a wardrobe mal-function whilst sitting for the portrait – cover up that nipple) and its grand wood carvings and murals. It is worth a visit to http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sudbury.
We were a bit rushed so my photos may not do it justice.
• The grand staircase – note the mural on the ceiling of the staircase
• One of the drawing rooms – note all the scroll work and the murals – the scroll work is hand carved.
• The Long Gallery – typical of Tudor Houses to show off the family (I did not take a picture of the lady with the wardrobe malfunction out of modesty)
• The Vernon Arms – kitchen closed
• The Sudbury Hall kitchen pet
• A view of a part of the garden – who would be so anal to plant every tree in rows

Sudbury Hall
the Grand Staircase
the ceiling above the staircase
Drawing Room
Friend in the kitchen
the Great Hall
trees in a row
Vernon Arms Hotel

The Unstately Home and Country Estate

August 22, 2014

The Unstately Home and Country Estate

It is a dull old day in Long Eaton. So we pick up the National Trust book for ideas of places to go. Didn’t I tell you when we visited Stowe House that we joined the National Trust? There is just so much but a lot seems to be the same. Calke Abbey stood out because it was close and it appeared different because it had been restored but not renovated. We also have to collect some parcels from home from UPS but Kerry has not been able to find the UPS station to collect her parcels. With these two objectives in mind we set off.

We find the UPS station very quickly – it is disguised as a corner store with a very small sign that it is also the UPS station for Long Eaton. That puzzle solved we set off into the country side and within 30 minutes arrive at Calke Abbey. We are greeted by sheep and cattle and to my surprise dozens of vehicles with locals visiting for the day.

Calke had been founded as an Abbey just before 1100AD and given to England’s first Augustinian order whom formed the Priory. In 1129AD the Abbott of Chester seized the Priory until he was told to hand it back by the Arch Bishop of Canterbury. St Giles Church which still stands on the site today was founded in 1160AD survived the rages of Henry VIII and his Parliamentary commissioners (which the Priory did not and was destroyed) until 1834 when it became a private manorial chapel until acquired by the National Trust with the manor house in 1984 due to the family being unable to pay the 8 million pounds in death duties. The bell tower contains one of the earlier bells from the 14th century made at Leicester by Newcombe Bell-founders (source National Trust).

The church is still consecrated and holds occasional services, weddings and the like. The first family home appears to have been built in Tudor style by Roger and Richard Wendsley (1573 to 1585) until purchased by First Baronet Sir Henry Harpur in 1622 (the family had become wealthy from Richard who in the previous century had been Justice of the Court of Common Pleas at Westminster and later Chief Justice of the County Palatine of Lancaster and through marriage acquired other estates in Derbyshire and Staffordshire). The house was rebuilt by the 4th Baronet Sir John Harpur around the Tudor Home. The house remained in the family for 6 more Barons with Sir Vauncey Harpur-Crewe (the 10th Baronet) being the last. The last few Barons became very reclusive being educated raised and living exclusively within the grounds of the estate (source Wikipedia and the tour guide/volunteer from the National Trust).

The guide showed us through the house which has been intentionally displayed in the state of decline in which it was handed to the Trust. The Trust has located and interviewed a surviving member of the family who lives in the US and still has rights to reside in a flat within the house and two of the former staff. At the turn of the century there were still 26 household staff and 11 ground keepers, and a pony mower. We were shown both sides the lords side and the staff side and given free rein in the estate. I’ll let the phots tell the rest of the story:

  • The Stables – there is a large stable building which now houses shop café toilets and exhibits including a play area for kids
  • The house – is looking very sad and the front has lost its grand entrance stair case
  • The drawing room – the later barons were naturalists (shot and stuffed anything they could find) and mounted or encased it in this room
  • The letter box – the last baron was so withdrawn he would write letters to the staff rather than talk to them, the butler would clear the box each day and deliver the correspondence/instructions
  • The dining room – a show of wealth
  • The Butler’s Pantry – includes a dumb waiter for the meals from the kitchen and the footman (who we heard via an audio interview) slept in that room
  • The service bells – a bell for each household servant – here is one wall of the bells there were two others (the number of servants declined over the years)
  • The bed – a gift from Elizabeth I on the marriage of Sir John – apparently never slept in and so unique it has been displayed around the world
  • The kitchen and the pastry rooms – note the decay – these rooms were closed up in 1922. Note the colours yellow (lime wash and pigs urine – disinfectant effect) and the blue (apparently repelled flies from the pastry)
  • The servants dining room – just a little dampness problem
  • The walk to the church
  • The church
  • The gardens – this is a minute sample
  • The ice house – the servants cut ice form the river in winter and filled these chambers to provide ice throughout the year
  • The sheep and the deer

For more information on Calke Abbey see www.nationaltrust.org.uk/calke


Wollarton Hall Nottingham

August 20, 2014
Wollarton Hall Nottingham
We are both awake early as the electrician is coming this morning, we are joining the rotary meeting at Woolloongabba via google hangout and going to St Mary the Virgin Church to help clean up. The electrician arrived and fitted the new fittings except for one which was for a lamp not a ceiling and provided a solution to the poor lighting in the bathroom – he put in another light which now floods the bathroom so that it is brighter than outside the flat.
In the midst of the electrician’s work we “hang out” with the Rotarians at home. I think that some of them thought it was fanciful that we even try to attend the meeting from 26,000 miles away. Great fun and good to catch up but it feels like we have not left home.
The electrician is still here and we have to give St Mary’s a miss. Finally finished he stands around chatting until 12.00 noon – it was bloody hard to get him here then equally hard to get rid of him.
We decide we will change the lamp shade so into the car (THISTLE) and off to British Home Stores Derby. Oops cannot find the receipt but manage to exchange it anyway at the cost of 2 pounds parking. As we are out and about we decide to visit Wollarton House one of the sights of Nottingham recommended to us by our mates at Nottingham Rotary.
Wollarton Hall is located in the centre of Nottingham (CBD is only 3 miles away) in a very large park by the same name with Europe’s oldest and first cast iron greenhouse, and with herds of red and fallow deer running around. It is an Elizabethan mansion (late 16th century) completed in the same year the Spanish Armada was sunk 1588. (Interesting because this lead to some innovation around sourcing timber for the Prospect Room as the Navy was using every stick for ships). The Willoughby family had been sheep farmers in the county and changed their family name to reflect the wealth they were accumulating (they adopted the locality name). By the time that Sir Francis Willoughby (a Baronet) built this mansion the family were the wealthiest family in Britain next to the Tudors (Elizabeth I). Funny thing is that Sir Francis had a problem with status and wanted to lord it over everyone. So he invited Liz to visit his family home (the one before he built Wollarton Hall) and when Liz did visit her comment was something like – We don’t like the man, nor do we like the wife nor do we like the house. So he built Wollarton – the first place in Britain to have central heating, a bathroom and double glazing but more about that later. Money was no object.
One hundred years later Francis Jnr became a pioneering naturalist so the Hall is filled with stuffed animals and heads on the wall. The practice was continued down the centuries by the family.
As is the fate of these ambitious families someone loses the family fortune and the property falls into disrepair. In this case it was death duties that got them and the house and park has ended up in the hands of the Nottingham City Council and is now a natural history museum the stables are the industrial museum and shops and the park is open to the public (the day we were there it seemed every member of the public).
There was a tour on offer for 5 pounds each and as entry was free we thought what the heck. So as the kids disappeared to see Batman (yes it was a dress up day for the kids) we started our tour in the main hall. Most home for the gentry up to this date were castles or fortified buildings but this was to be a stately manor and they had no template other than a castle or a church so this looks like a castle but is intended to be a house. It is square (the only square manor house in the UK) and has a central court which was entered through stone arches to greet the Lord on his throne. Behind that was the dining room and the kitchens underneath in the basement. I mentioned the Spanish Armada. Well they did not have enough timber to provide the supports to the Prospect Room which is above the centre court. Also they tried to emulate the manner of support of the ceiling with the grotesques at the bottom but instead of support it actually pulled down on the floor. And when the architect could not get the timber he wanted because of the Navy he design a lattice support beam which never did work which meant the Prospect Room which was designed to allow notable guests to view the extent of the Willoughby lands (to the horizon for 360 degrees) all that was safe was a small viewing platform at the top of the stairs 3 storeys above ground. Of course when the Council took it over they put in the correct supports hence the floor today looks unworn although it is over 500 hundred years old.

From the Prospect Room we walked down to traverse a section of the roof (apparently a favoured past time of the Tudor gentry). Here we see the double glazing installed at a time when the government charged a tax on the number of windows but money was no object. The second lord (they climbed their way up to Dukedom also) had installed side doors to the centre court which created a draught and the centre court could not be kept warm so they installed steel pipes behind all fire paces filled with water channelled underground from a cistern installed 3 miles away to carry heat throughout the home (the first heating system) and then later the doubling glazing to contain heat (the first of its kind). On the corners of the house are the bedrooms for the guests starting with the highest ranking having access to the roof.
After viewing the walk we returned into the house and were shown the household safe (a solid steel door) and to protect the inhabitants of the house and the money from the staff at night there were two iron grilled gates and then a heavy wooden door before you got to the staff quarters (prison). Beyond were the Tudor kitchens discovered by the Council when renovating the hall. They are a bright yellow in colour and the Council discovered this was a paint made up of lime wash and pigs urine (the urine acted as a disinfectant). There were three areas to the kitchens and a slaughter room beside the meat salting room.

From the slaughter room we went into an underground tunnel which operated as both a beer cellar wine cellar brandy cellar and the cistern room for collecting the water from that cistern 3 miles away, channelling it through the tunnels to clear the air in the tunnels and ultimately to fill the man-made lake in the park. The tunnels allowed servants to clear the path for the water and to service that cistern and others but they could also call into the “Admiral Rodney “ a pub in the village going to and returning from the cistern.
After existing from the tunnels we viewed the rest of the house in particular the natural history displays and then the stables but they were closed – we had run out of time. After all was said and done a most interesting visit to see a Tudor household as it might have been.

Wollarton Hall
the Audience Room
Family dining room
some of the military display
“Heads of the House”
More Heads
the Prospect Room
Promenade on the roof viewing one of the corner guest bedrooms
motif in stone decorating all external walls
Part of the stables
View to the horizon from the Prospect Room
the bathroom – located between floors
the butchery and salting room
the kitchen – roasting room
the roast
the underground passage and beer store

Although I forgot the big camera we are starting to get prepared and I had the small camera in our travel pack and took some pictures and here they are:
• the Hall, its grounds,

  • some of the “heads of the household”
  • the centre court,
  • the Prospect Room
  • the view to the horizon, and
  • the stables (bigger than some other stately homes)
    • The bathroom (between the floors of the Prospect Room and below was the first indoor bathroom in Britain)
    • The kitchens and slaughter room