Author: Glendon

Retired Australian Lawyer having worked representing the innocent and the not so innocent in Australia and some of the remote parts of the world and having travelled widely through Europe, Western Russia, Canada, USA, New Zealand, Thailand Malaysia Solomon Islands northern China, Hong Kong and the UAE So now that I have the time I am writing about my travels present and past. Hope you enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

THE RETIREES GO AROUND THE WORLD – BRIGHTON HOVE to TRURO CORNWALL UK

I recall that it was almost sunny on our way to Cornwall and our stop in Dorchester was welcome to stretch our legs.

Dorchester

It is situated between Poole and Bridport on the A35 trunk route. A historic market town, Dorchester is on the banks of the River Frome to the south of the Dorset Downs and north of the South Dorset Ridgeway that separates the area from Weymouth, 7 miles (11 km) to the south. In the 17th and 18th centuries Dorchester suffered several serious fires. Only a few of the town’s early buildings have survived to the present day. Dorchester remained a compact town within the boundaries of the old town walls until the latter part of the 19th century because all land immediately adjacent to the west, south and east was owned by the Duchy of Cornwall.

This was a stopover to have lunch and break our trip. Despite the many attractions trumpeted by the local visitors bureau we were limited to dining in a quirky coffee shop and wandering through the quirky building in which the coffee shop was located.

Truro

We arrived at our B & B “The Fielding” late in the afternoon. To our delight onsite parking was included at no cost but a little bit squeezy. The premises are an Edwardian style two/three story house with two accommodation rooms and the couple who own it living on site – breakfast was included. I am certain this pair were older than us by 10 years and still running a B & B.

The accommodation was comfortable, and we spent little time in it, so it did the trick. A group of workers was staying at the premises whilst they fixed whatever needed fixing around about and we shared breakfast in the dining room. Then they would leave for their days work and we had no problem with the parking arrangements.

St Ives and Penzance.

Our first journey involved a visit to St Ives.

St Ives is a seaside town, and port in Cornwall. The town lies north of Penzance on the coast of the Celtic Sea. In former times, it was commercially dependent on fishing. The decline in fishing, however, caused a shift in commercial emphasis, and the town is now primarily a popular seaside resort. It is notable in achieving the title of Best UK Seaside Town and named best seaside town of 2007 by The Guardian newspaper. We kept to the waterfront and were lucky to find parking on one of the shoreline parking areas. Unfortunately, it was a showery day but not miserable. We made our way from the car park to the seafront in the town’s centre and found the mariner’s church. On the way we encountered St Ive’s Church. St Ives is a parish church on the waterfront in St Ives. The church is dedicated to the Virgin, also known as Ives, supposedly an Irish holy woman of the 5th or 6th century. The current building dates to the reign of King Henry V of England (1413 to 1422 AD).

A small “A” frame sign beckoned us to enter with the word “Café” – yes inside in one of the wings of the church was a modest coffee shop offering a free service for those who could not afford a coffee. I believe it had a volunteer operating it so we stopped had a coffee and cake and paid forward for the next two people in need to receive a coffee. What a great idea!

We continued our walk keeping to the waterfront. The weather remained overcast and rained intermittently so there was not much excitement – so we moved onto Penzance.

It is the westernmost major town in Cornwall. Situated in the shelter of Mount’s Bay, the town faces south-east onto the English Channel. Penzance’s Chapel Street has a number of interesting features, including The Admiral Benbow public house (home to a real life 1800s smuggling gang and allegedly the inspiration for Treasure Island’s “Admiral Benbow Inn). It is also the base of the pirates in Gilbert and Sullivan’s comic opera “The Pirates of Penzance”. Exploring the town we came upon Rotary Shop in New Street. We stopped off to check it out and Kerry introduced herself. The Rotary Shop is unique among local Charity Shops. The shop raises funds specifically to assist local groups and charities by selling goods donated by the community.

From Penzance we went to find Land’s End. Land’s End is a headland in western Cornwall, on the Penwith peninsula about eight miles (13 km) west-south-west of Penzance at the western end of the A30 road. To the east of it is the English Channel, and to the west the Celtic Sea. However, we followed the route given to us by our maps on my phone. This proved to be a mistake as there are two ways to Land’s End – one along the A30 to the end and the other being the route we took, through farm roads and lanes to a vacant paddock with a sign saying, “Land’s End – 800 metres”. It had been raining for several days, and the paddock was a bog, so we turned around to return from whence we had come, and there was a garbage truck in our way. Kerry managed to get passed (I don’t understand how) and we got to the A30 saw the sign to Land’s End and decided we didn’t need to see it at all. So we decided to push on to St Micheal’s Mount. The following photos show how the weather deteriorated and the narrowness of the lanes. This building is part of a tin processing plant from ages gone by.

We arrived at St Micheal’s Mount where the tide was out. It is a tidal island rising high out of the surrounding water, topped by a towering stone castle complete with battlements, a church, and a museum. I remembered the French version Mont St Michael, its steep steps and defibrillator at the top awaiting you. The castle is also the home of the St Aubyn family, who have owned the island for nearly 400 years. At the base of St Michael’s Mount is a small village with a harbour with charming eateries and picnic areas. Whilst it was appealing, with the tide out we were not going to get across the causeway and the light was fading. Next time.

We returned to Truro for the evening and rest as tomorrow we planned to find Port Issac and Tintagel Castle.

Port Isaac is a small fishing village on the Atlantic coast of north Cornwall. From 2004 to 2022, the village served as the backdrop to the ITV television series Doc Martin. It also is home to the sea-shanty singing group Fisherman’s Friends. For those who don’t know Fisherman’s Friend is an all-male a cappella group (a group who sing unaccompanied by instruments) who sing sea shanties. Just as Doc Martyn became a popular TV series a movie made about Fisherman’s Friends in 2019 and its sequel Fisherman’s Friends: One and All in 2022 has kept Port Issac as a popular tourist destination. The trip through the countryside was pleasant and as we approached Port Issac we noticed of course, we are here in winter, and the place is very quiet with lot’s of maintenance being done for the spring and summer. We could not park in the village itself but the walk down to the the village centre showed us some of the unusual building styles. We saw the school house and the bay, the oldest building housing the boat rescue crew, Doc Martyn’s house and surgery and where we had coffee.

Still, we had a great time locating and identifying things from the TV series. We have seen the first of the Fisherman’s Friend movies but all we could recognize there was fishing nets and boats. We enjoyed a coffee in the restaurant/café closest to the boat ramp. It felt special being in the place as seen on TV. After coffee we moved on to the village of Tintagel and the ruins of Tintagel Castle.

Tintagel Castle is a medieval fortification located on the peninsula of Tintagel Island adjacent to the village of Tintagel. No Roman-era structure has been proven to have existed there. It was settled during the early medieval period and a castle was built on the site by Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwall in the 13th century, during the High Middle Ages. Archaeological investigation into the site began in the 19th century but later digs exposed significant traces of a much earlier high-status settlement, which had trading links with the Mediterranean world during the Late Roman period. Two digs in 2016 and 2017 at Tintagel Castle uncovered the outlines of a palace from the 5th or early 6th century (the early medieval period), with evidence of writing and of articles brought in from Spain and from the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea. Investigation is continuing.

The castle has a long association with legends related to King Arthur. This was first recorded in the 12th century when Geoffrey of Monmouth described Tintagel as the place of Arthur’s conception in his mythological account of British history, Historia Regum Britanniae. Geoffrey told the story that Arthur’s father, King Uther Pendragon, was disguised by Merlin’s sorcery to look like Gorlois, Duke of Cornwall, the husband of Igraine, Arthur’s mother Cornwall and managed by English Heritage.

As we drove into Tintagel, we noticed there were numerous signs directing the visitor to parking. Some were remote from the ruins and the closest we found was the rear yard of a pub which was still 1 klm away along a rough path from the ruins. We ended up finding Camelot Castle Hotel (see below) situated above the ruins of Tintagel Castle. It is a grand Victorian building built in 1899 and has been a popular destination for artists (check out the painted car) and travelers for decades since. The hotel sits on a clifftop overlooking Tintagel bridge and the island beyond, offering panoramic views its stunning views of the castle ruins and the coastline. It continues the Arthurian theme with the Round table (Kerry was amused by the Merlin circle on the table). We could clearly see the ruins but as with everything else it was closed due to maintenance on the bridge crossing to the island. Apart from the pictures below we didn’t get to the site, but we had a cozy drink and some lunch before moving on.

We had realised after arriving in Truro that a return trip to Heathrow and catching the bus to Nottingham would prove a challenge so we had a change of plans – we would leave Truro a day earlier and travel to Amesbury then onto to Heathrow return the car before bussing it to Nottingham – an overnight stop at Amesbury was required.

Amesbury

Amesbury is a town in Wiltshire, best known for the prehistoric monument of Stonehenge which we passed on our way to our hotel.

The town is claimed to be the oldest occupied settlement in Great Britain, having been first settled around 8820 BC. Amesbury is also associated with the Arthurian legend: the convent to which Guinevere retired was said to have been the one at Amesbury. Our hotel was in the centre of the town, and it too had history most notably the many additions over time such as in the hallways where the halls weaved and rose and fell without any rhyme or reason.

A walk around the town was hardly exciting but we were able to find a few treasures – our photos are below.

That brings us to the end of our Cornwall adventure, so, until my next blog “THE RETIREES GO AROUND THE WORLD –CORNWALL UK/NOTTINGHAM UK” – keep on following our tour.

THE RETIREES GO AROUND THE WORLD – SAN FRANCISCO USA/BRIGHTON HOVE UK

The B&B (pictured above) was well located on the road that marked the exact boundary between the two towns (Brighton and Hove), and you would not have known the difference save for a sign on a building at the end of the road announcing the boundary. Upstairs It had two bedrooms both with an ensuite and downstairs a powder room kitchen lounge room and a dining table in the middle. Enough room for us but no garage. The missing garage came as quite a shock. The hiring of the car was based on the B&B having “private parking”. Our strategy was to spend the day traveling around and hope to find a space at night when it was free to park on the streets. Mick and Terri had joined us.

Mick had in his younger days worked in or owned a garage at the end of the street with a “lady of the night” working from the building across the road and the Robin Hood Pub on the opposite corner. The garage has gone, and the Lady has moved on but the pub was still there.

I had prepared an itinerary and planned to drag Terri and Mick around. Despite the itinerary we got side tracked on our way to Battle Abbey and Battlefield. We visited Beach Head and the suburbs of Eastbourne to allow Mick to catch up with an old friend. The wind was howling this day and sea mist blanked out the sun. The coastline is a continuation of the white cliffs of Dover and towered over the beach. It’s known for its dramatic, 531-foot (162-meter) high cliffs being the highest chalk cliffs in England and offers stunning views of the coastline and the English Channel. Beachy Head is part of the Seven Sisters Country Park. The visitor centre measures the distance from the edge of the cliffs to the centre and predicts that the centre will be lost over the cliff by 2050. We drove to the highest point and stepped out to take photos and were close to being blown away. The first picture is the visitors centre which will one day be in the sea as they lose a portion of the cliffs each year. The little lighthouse is further along the coast until you come to the highest point which is the last photo.

We moved on through Eastbourne to the town of Battle and parked behind Battle Abbey at the monastery car park. Terri had put the money in the meter and we moved onto the Abbey which was closed – it was Sunday. Disappointed we walked through the village and found somewhere warm for lunch. We paid no further attention to the parking meter until we received a rude email from the car hire people. We paid the administration fee but never received the fine – its in the mail. The first two pictures are Eastbourne Pier and its “shop” followed by the advertisement for a re-enactment of the battle on the carpark wall in Battle. The last picture is the phone box outside the Abbey from which King Harold rang home to tell his Queen he may be late for dinner. The battle with William in 1066 AD took place in this area.

With the Abbey closed our afternoon was free so we headed to Lewes and Lewes Castle and Museum of Sussex Archaeology. The town was buzzing, and the only parking space was the council car park near the river Ouse 500m away from the castle and museum. The castle is largely a ruin with a castle gate and some other buildings remaining. Still, it was very interesting. Lewes Castle is a medieval Norman castle originally called Bray Castle. it occupies a commanding position guarding the gap in the South Downs cut by the River Ouse and occupied by the towns of Lewes and Cliffe. It stands on a man-made mount just to the north of the high street in Lewes and is constructed from local limestone and flint blocks. The Barbican gate is mostly intact and can be accessed. The sign on the wall in the photo below tells the passerby that ten of the seventeen protestant martyrs were imprisoned in the vault below this building and burned at the stake a few metres from this site in 1555 to 1557.

This tour ended our day, and we returned to Hove to find a car space, a place to eat and a warm space to retire.

My niece Louise, who is presently managing the race days for Formula 1 Racing around the world, took time out of her busy schedule to come down by train to Hove and arrange for more of my relatives to meet us. Louise, Trish (Terri’s sister and my cousin) and her daughter Sarah arranged for dinner at the Connaught Hotel in the heart of Hove. We parked in the Aldi parking station and walked on to the Connaught Hotel – large and noisy hotel and a table of 7.

We also managed to fit in a visit to Ditchling a very small village with a lot of history. Even so the place was busy with visitors, and we ended up parking in a puddle in a dead-end lane – the only park we could find. It brought into the churchyard and as is typical of English churches we also passed through the cemetery finding a very quaint grave with its own font. Some of the buildings look to be from the Tudor era but the pub was warm and cozy. On the way to Ditchling we passed through some pretty country as you will see below. In the village itself the church stood out as the centre of the village and the buildings all to be very early or Georgian built.

After spending the morning in Ditchling we returned to Hove and the “Nevell” an old haunt for Mick and we met up with one of Terri’s sons for a drink and get together. The following day we continued our visits to beach side towns and the photos following show a mariners church where the sailors went to sea after visiting the church.

We had a lovely time renewing friendships meeting more of my father’s family in the UK and visiting new things in Brighton Hove. Our time in Brighton Hove had come to an end and we had the discussion as to when we might catch up again before we headed off to Truro in Cornwall. We had not visited places like Port Issac where Doc Martin had his practice (the TV show) and King Arthur’s alleged castle at Tintagel. The drive would take over 4.5 hours so we scheduled a stopover in Dorchester for a break and some lunch.

Read on in my next blog “THE RETIREES GO AROUND THE WORLD – BRIGHTON HOVE UK/ CORNWALL UK.

THE RETIREES GO AROUND THE WORLD – BRISBANE/SAN FRANCISCO USA

Ever wondered what it would be like to go around the world dropping in at various points of call, visiting relations and friends and visiting new points of interest? Well, we did wonder and now I am here to tell you what it was it was all about. Welcome to our holiday blog – The Retirees go around the World in 51 days.

It started with booking a cruise from Japan to Taiwan and return then taking fright at the cost to travel to Tokyo to catch the cruise ship. This caused us to investigate traveling around the world with connecting flights starting with a flight from Brisbane to Sydney, then Sydney to San Francisco departing on 24th January 2025 and arriving there the same day due to the time zones.

Our son Ben collected us from the airport and put up with us visiting them in their home for 5 nights enjoying spoiling grandson Angus and learning about Jee’s progress with Angus #2.

We played Garage – getting out boxes of cars and trucks and racing them down the track. We then had a mess, and we had to pack it away under grandson’s supervision. Then we visited his preschool at Saint Joseph’s Basilica, played in the park with a new friend and found a new park developed over a discontinued rail line.

Photo

It was just a few days with them but being so far away makes it difficult to connect. Gus is such a personable child I never feel as though we have been away. After those glorious few days, sadly, we waved goodbye. Angus is a joy for grandparents – not so sure it’s always that way for Ben and Jee.

Ben took us to the airport where we then flew from San Francisco to London Heathrow, where we collected a hire car from Green Motion Car Hire. The car collection point was outside of the airport, but the hotel shuttle bus got us to the collection point easily. From there Kerry drove to our accommodation in Hove. A tip for all travelers – ensure you understand the local rules regarding parking. Brighton / Hove Council has made parking on the street a costly dance to avoid the parking costs and fines. We found ourselves finding overnight parking up to 200m away from our B&B in weather down to freezing at times. The parking could easily cost £30 per day on the street. My cousin Therese (Terri) and her husband Mick (former residents of Hove but now gite owners in France) met us at the B & B and wisely had parked their car with friends outside the parking limited areas and caught a cab into Hove.

Read on with my next Blog – The Retirees go around the World –San Francisco/Brighton-Hove.

THE RETIREES VISIT HOBART AND THE TAHUNE FOREST

Star Date 5th August 2024

We were staying in the Allurity Hotel in Bathurst St and had dined nearby. It was a regular school day for Lola and a working day for Paul, so we decided to look around for a breakfast joint. Photo #1 (looking left to right) is the view from our bedroom window – the building had been converted from its former use of an office building to a hotel, and it had an unusual arrangement for the shower and toilet, but the bed was comfortable, and we were close to the CBD.

At first we walked up Bathurst St in the direction we had gone the night before and were pleasantly surprised by some of the street art. Photo #4 is the hotel and photos #2, 5, 6, & 7 some of the street art. Photo 7 is in a narrow lane and getting a clear picture a challenge.

We found a cafe serving breakfast and then moved onto towards and into Salamanca Markets which were not open but it meant there were no crowds. We walked down Elizabeth St passed the Post Office – a 19th century styled building, and onto the Seafarers Centre and the Mission to Seafarers in the midst of Salamanca its Custom House, wharves and chandleries. A piece of history of sailing ship and sailors lost in many cities Photos 9, 10, & 11. What has helped preserve the history is the construction behind the historic buildings providing residences and work places photos 12, 13, & 14.

We found the site of the American Embassy from the times of the sailing ships in one of those lanes but apart from the plaque and the story it told there is nothing of the embassy.

As we made our way back to our hotel we walked through the park Franklin Square which we had passed by going to Salamanca. Who was it that is remembered by the statue in the park photos 15, & 16. The statue commemorates Sir John Franklin (1786-1847), Lieutenant Governor of Van Dieman’s land. Sir John Franklin was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of Van Dieman`s Land in 1837. Sir John established a State education system, founded the Tasmanian Natural History Society (which became the first scientific Royal Society to be established outside Britain) and subsidised the Tasmanian Journal of Natural History. During his period in office, Tasmania became the intellectual hub of the Australian colonies. There may be some doubt about that claim but that is what I found out on Monument Australia – https://monumentaustralia.org.au/.

After his Tasmanian appointment he conducted two significant polar explorations, the first in 1845 and the second in 1847 in his attempt to discover the North West Passage. The statue was intended to commemorate the governorship of Tasmania by the great Arctic navigator, Sir John Franklin.

In 1847, Franklin reminded the Admiralty of its promise that his having held a civil post should not debar him from further naval service. The Admiralty kept its word. At 59 he was too old for Arctic exploration and died on this expedition, in the HMS Erebus, which was beset in the ice-pack off the coast of King William’s Land, on 11 June 1847, in sight of the North-West Passage which he had first set out to find nearly thirty years before.  Franklin and 128 sailors aboard the HMS Erebus and HMS Terror perished in the Royal Navy’s worst polar expedition disaster.

We had a rest while waiting for Paul to call to take us to Lola’s performance. Lola attends Taroon State High School situated on picturesque Little Sandy Bay near Dixon’s Beach. You can see through the headlands at the mouth of the Derwent River and that means you look directly south to Antarctica and the winds from the south howl through – bloody cold. The programme was arranged so that each band played two numbers and whilst they were playing the next band was setting up at stage 2. The band sounded quite good and were roundly applauded by their school mates and thank god it was over quickly – we were not dressed for this weather. We left Lola Paul, her mum Emily and sister there to enjoy the celebrations that followed returning to the hotel. Paul and Lola would later pick us up for dinner.

Next morning we had booked a tour to take us to Tahune Forest on the Huon River.

Tasmania is known for towering trees. In fact, the second tallest tree in the world lives here (according to the Tasmanian Tourist Bureau and Tahune Adventures. So it’s no surprise that the Tasmanian government went through the trouble to build the Tahune Airwalk.

Built amongst the treetops in the Huon River Valley, the Tahune Airwalk takes you 50 metres above the forest floor. From here, you’ll be able to see across the verdant valleys that earn Tasmania the nickname ‘Apple Island.’

The morning did not start well with Kerry needing a day off. So on my lonesome I walked up the hill to the pick up missed the pickup but saved the day by a phone call to the operators of the tour – Tahune Adventures – http://www.tahuneadventures.com.au.

It was a small bus with some obvious tourists aboard like me with my camera around my neck who awaited the round trip to pick me up. We left Hobart traveling to Taroona (yes past the school I visited yesterday) hung a right turn and headed to Huonville and into Franklin. On the way I noticed a sign about a cafe in Franklin that raised a legal heckle on my neck – Osteria – cafe of petty sessions.

The phrase “petty sessions” in Australia, historically referred to a lower-level court that dealt with minor criminal offenses and civil matters, akin to what is now typically handled by Magistrates’ Courts. Petty Sessions courts primarily handled summary offenses—minor cases such as traffic violations, petty theft, or public order issues—where quick decisions were appropriate. These courts operated in a more informal setting than higher courts, with magistrates often presiding over cases without juries. The term “petty sessions” has largely fallen out of common use. So I was interested to check it out when we stopped in Franklin.

Franklin, is a small town in Tasmania’s Huon Valley, with a rich history tied closely to Tasmania’s maritime heritage, agriculture, and early settlement. Named after Lady Jane Franklin, the wife of Sir John Franklin (yes Sir John Franklin, the fellow immortalised by the statue in Franklin Square, who was the governor of Van Dieman’s Land (now Tasmania) from 1837 to 1843. Franklin was initially established as an agricultural and timber town in the 19th century.

With its riverfront location, Franklin is historically known for its wooden boat-building industry. The town’s rich maritime heritage continues today with the presence of the Wooden Boat Centre, a workshop and museum dedicated to traditional boat-building skills ( unfortunately closed this day). Franklin’s location along the Huon River made it a prime spot for riverboat transport. The riverboats played a critical role in transporting goods to and from Hobart and surrounding settlements, and the Huon River became a lifeline for local communities. Photos #1 & 2 (left to right below) picture the Cafe of petty sessions which Photo # 3 identifies as the former police station, court house, Gaol, and residence for the Franklin area. Photos #4 & 5 identify the water mill and the painting depicting an earlier time in Franklin’s history and alongside is one of the pub’s (suitably located across the road from the former court and police station). Finally photo 7 provides a view of the harbour on the Huon River. Our break was quickly over and we were on the road again to Geeveston where we took a right hand turn to follow the river into the hills and its headwaters.

We had chosen this tour to see Newdegate Cave and the Tahune Skywalk. On arriving at the tourist centre I learned about everything else that was available but this was a tour no changes permitted. Photos # 1 to 3 (viewed left to right) is the entrance to the carpark, and the Tourist Information Centre. Newdegate is one set of caves in the Hasting Caves area. Firstly we explored thermal hot spring Photo # 7 (yes the water runs into the swimming pool – not very natural), the picnic area, photos #4 to 6 (one of the smaller trees provides the centre pole) and the entrance to two short walks – photo #8. After killing time doing those things we started the march to the cave entrance.

Photos #9 to 12 are photos of the walk along with two feature notice poles which could not be read to to the weathering and photo #13 is the cave entrance. Photos #14 to 26 are all from the interior of the cave which was dry in the sense there was no stream running through it.

After completing the cave we returned to the Tour centre and took a different path to the Forest walk. Photos #27 to 30 show the lodge front and back then the bridge across the Huon River. Then the climb started until we go to the entrance to the Sky Bridge – photos #31 to 33. The walk is made up of a circuit and then a viewing platform over the Houn and Picton River conjunction – photos 34 to 42 and the final photo is the view back to the tourist centre. The journey concludes at a cantilever sitting high above the intersection of the Huon and Picton Rivers to give you breathtaking views. There’s no better way to experience the healthy natural abundance of the Tasmanian island.

We were offered the opportunity to take the long walk or short walk back to the bus. The long walk had the attraction of a swinging bridge whereas the short walk had the bus, so I took the short walk. Good thing too, the driver came with me while the rest went on the long walk so I could rest while the driver panicked when the group did not come back by the designated time. I offered to stay with the bus and after two abortive attempts to find them, the group turned up oblivious to the time – did I say they were Japanese & Korean? On the road again and it was lunch time – we were stopping at Kermandie Hotel Port Huon on the mouth of the Huon River.

Port Huon, a small town on the Huon River, has a rich history tied to its role as a key port and hub for the apple and timber industries. Located around 40 km southwest of Hobart, it developed in the 19th century, mainly to support the bustling timber trade and the apple industry, both crucial to Tasmania’s economy. During World War II, Port Huon played a role in military logistics. The Australian and U.S. navies used the nearby waters for strategic operations, and the port served as a repair and refueling station. In recent decades, the area around Port Huon has seen significant growth in the aquaculture industry, particularly salmon farming, which has become a major part of Tasmania’s economy. This industry now provides employment and supports the local economy.

Today, Port Huon is known for its scenic beauty, with views over the Huon River and surrounding hills, and draws visitors interested in Tasmania’s natural environment and local produce, especially apples and seafood. Its history as a port, agricultural hub, and center for timber and salmon farming remains an important part of its character.

We stopped at the Kermandie Hotel. Charming old building decorated with the history of French exploration. The notable French expeditions to the region were led by explorers such as Bruni d’Entrecasteaux and Nicolas Baudin. In 1792 and 1793, Rear Admiral Antoine Raymond Joseph de Bruni d’Entrecasteaux was sent by the French government to search for the lost expedition of fellow explorer Jean-François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse. While searching, d’Entrecasteaux charted much of Tasmania’s coastline.The Huon River and subsequently Port Huon were named after Vice-Admiral Jean-Michel Huon de Kermadec, one of the expedition’s officers.

Nicolas Baudin arrived in Tasmanian waters in 1802. This expedition also mapped various parts of Tasmania and was significant in gathering scientific data. The French naturalists and artists aboard Baudin’s ships, including François Péron and Charles-Alexandre Lesueur, extensively documented the plants, animals, and landscapes, leaving a rich archive of illustrations and descriptions. The expedition anchored in areas around the Huon Valley and the channel, further solidifying French influence on place names in the area.

The hotel carries this history on its walls. Although the exterior may disappoint the interior has a 19th century charm.

Loaded with all accounted for, we headed back the way we had come to the Tahune Forest. One beer and a meal meant nap time for me so whilst the others prattled on in their own languages, I spent a little time walking amongst the stars. Safely home I found Kerry rested in bed and restless to do something as usual. So, I took her for dinner.

Our time on tour over we flew back to Brisbane and planning for our next voyage off the beaten track.

December 2024

THE RETIREES AND FRIENDS VISIT PERTH AND MARGARET RIVER – days 10 & 11 Back to our Itinerary in Margaret River

Star Date 3rd & 4th August 2024

Busselton a city in the South West region of Western Australia approximately 220 km (140 mi) south-west of Perth was home to the Noongar Aboriginal people was one of the earliest settlements in Western Australia. John Bussell was granted land in the area in July 1832 and the settlers moved there in April 1834. The present name of Busselton derives from the Bussell family. It was first officially used in June 1835. Busselton soon established itself as a leading port. In 1850, being in close proximity to the tall timber country, timber was being exported and the small town prospered. Jetties for this purpose were built at Wonnerup, Busselton, and Quindalup but of these, only the Busselton Jetty remains. During the 1850s, Busselton began to receive convicts who were beginning to arrive in Western Australia; they particularly helped with the timber industry.

The 1960s saw the beginnings of the professional fishing industry and, in particular, the Margaret River wine region, which greatly increased tourist numbers in and around Busselton. Busselton’s nearest city is Bunbury named after Lieutenant Henry Bunbury who led a contingent of troops stationed at Wonnerup. Bunbury is 52 kilometres (32 mi) north-east of Busselton. Busselton is home to the longest wooden jetty (pier) in the Southern Hemisphere, stretching 1,841 metres (6,040 ft) out to sea. Construction of the jetty began in 1864 and it was continually extended until the 1960s, when it reached its current length. It was closed to shipping in 1972, and maintenance was discontinued for a time. Following major damage caused by Cyclone Alby in 1978 and a fire in 1999, it was restored and improved. Since 2003, the jetty has offered visitors a tourist train ride, an underwater observatory, and an interpretive centre.

Photo #1 from the top left is the Visitors Centre, Gift Shop and train terminus. The train is rubber tyred but the carriages run on the rails. Photo #5 two gulls nesting – this is a remnant of an earlier part of the pier providing nesting spots for the gulls. We rode the train out and then walked back to the new building you can see in photo #2 for lunch and a lot of other people had the same idea. There are reminders of Busselton’s past in muriels on building walls such as the picture below. After Cyclone Alby.

Prior to the visit to the pier we visited a number of different spots in town. It remains a port city as seen in photos #1 to 3, with lighthouses sited amongst the residences. Surprisingly there is a lot of historic street art to admire as well as seen in photo #11.

We made our way home but both arriving we noticed the historic buildings at the northern end of Margaret River Village. It had blown up windy with sprinkles of rain so while it seemed miserable we were not going to miss this opportunity. Once again the pictorial artwork was terrific to see images of the past.

Well tomorrow we board the bus to Perth Airport so time to do some washing. Although there is a laundry in the house/home we decided to use the local laundromat – cannot recall why at the present but here’s the proof – the dryers and the lost and found basket.

The following morning 5th August we drove down to the bus stop in the darkness and sat in the shelter until the bus arrived. Dale and Zdravka protested that they would drive us to the airport but we won out and stayed for the bus. It was both cold and dark but gradually the sun peeped over the horizon, the street lights disappeared and the bus arrived. There would be one change before arriving at our accommodation at the airport. Now if you remember in my first of these blogs we had intended to meet Kerry’s cousin Ken and his wife Yena. Yena’s mother passed away suddenly and as she lived in Bali Ken and Yena had left Perth the morning of our arrival. So on our return journey we arranged to catch up that evening.

Our bus took us on an interesting circuit on the way to the accommodation – in this world of FIFO we went to every small aircraft operator providing FIFO travel taking men and women to work. Interesting!

After showering and pulling on some of those clean clothes we went to the inhouse restaurant to meet Ken and Yena. Reminded me a bit like Star Wars and the bar on Tatoon but fortunately Jaba was not in. Ken and Yena arrived and we caught up on everything from Ken’s father Barry passing away to Yena’s mother passing – a characteristic of getting old. Here is Ken and Yena.

Well after farewelling Ken and Yena we dragged ourselves to bed. We were scheduled to travel with the FIFO workers to the airport and what a shock. The bus transfer was a true shuttle with everyone jostling for space and once we got to the departure terminals all of the shuttles were converging and spewing passengers into the terminal. We were stunned but we had allowed plenty of time fortunately. We were not going to Brisbane but to Hobart to catchup with our youngest son Paul and his family. Whilst we booked a direct flight the plane took us firstly to Sydney then to Hobart where caught an Uber to our hotel. Having found our way to the hotel we arranged to catch up for dinner at a local eatery. The reason for our visit was tomorrow our granddaughter Lola was to perform in a school band.

December 2024

THE RETIREES AND FRIENDS VISIT PERTH AND MARGARET RIVER – day 8 Back to our Itinerary in Margaret River

Star Date 1st August 2024

The mornings were quite crisp so the fire was lit whilst we fed the birds and had breakfast. We had word that the Markets were on this morning. Nothing like the word “Markets” to wet the palate so the plan to go to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse took a slight deviation to the local school grounds for the Markets. A short drive to the other end of the village and there it lay – the Markets – a collection of all strange things and smells a bit like early explorers we lay anchor in the crowded carpark and moved amongst the natives. There was a lonely busker plying his trade before an uncaring audience wound up in the goods on sale. Now I tired very quickly – once around the tents was enough. So I became the buskers sole fan but I was soon joined by Dale and we sat patiently like dogs on a lead waiting for the madam to return.

Once the shopping flea had been scratched the girls returned to collect us and on the road again.

On our way to the lighthouse we had a few other points of interest to visit and the first of these was Canal Rocks – a rocky headland outcrop with interesting formation and wind weathered rocks. The wind was strong but the rocks tell you how strong they can get.

It was still early by the time we arrived at Cullens Wines Cellar Door and vineyard. Our thoughts ran to a hot coffee and a bun but the cellar door was under renovation and the staff disinterested so we basically looked around and moved on.

Next winery Vasse Felix. Founded by Dr Thomas Cullity in 1967, its first vintage in 1971, David Gregg appointed winemaker in 1973, the Gregg Family acquire the vineyard in 1984, and the vineyard and cellar door were acquired by the Holmes a Court Family in 1987 and remain the owners today. The cellar door is picturesque and the top of the range in Australian cellar doors. The entrance is manicured with a large well maintained carpark so much so that an odd looking home made vehicle stands out like a sore thumb. Sculptures decorate the entrance walkway with gracious trees and landscaping – the carpark is worth visiting!

Stepping inside is an experience in its self. There is a gallery behind the enormous doors shown below and only two chairs to sit an admire the art. There is a cellar of the very best Vasse Felix wines above which is the wine tasting area and cafe and outstanding pieces of sculpture and art then upstairs is the restaurant exuding an opulence of elegance with an Australian flavour. The dining room was full of guests and I felt like a pervert spying on them so I declined to photograph the dining room. As we left we were followed by birdsong.

Finally time to return home but not before we visited Cowaramup; a village just up the road from Margaret River paying homage to the dairy cow. These fibre glass cows and calves adorn the footpaths and shop fronts throughout the village adding significantly to the character of the place. The pharmacy was particularly caught up in the mad cow disease.

There were a number of shops we had to visit and fortunately 1 was the French bakery where we obtained lunch then a Curiosity shop (I found it curious we were in there) and the sweet shop – I missed that having been caught up in curiosity. We were now close to our home and the fireplace and bottle of wine was calling – no sorry that was the birds for their afternoon feed.

We will be back on the road tomorrow this time going to the most south-westerly point on the mainland Australia.

December 2024

THE RETIREES AND FRIENDS VISIT PERTH AND MARGARET RIVER – THE FOUR MUSKETEERS IN SWAN VALLEY – 2024 DAY 5

Star Date 29th July 2024.

Batteries fully recharged – the camera of course.

Did I tell you we handed the car back to cousin Ken which meant that we got the opportunity to unite our efforts to explore this big wide land or at least Swan Valley. After feeding the birds and ourselves we picked up the tourist map provided by the Tourist Information Centre and Zdravka’s itinerary and headed out for adventure. First Stop – the chocolate shops. Oh, the Morish Nuts shop was worth a stop for a photo too.

Then we moved onto the House of honey – a sticky situation developed.

We continued our exploration of the waterholes and camp spots finding delights wherever we went.

After filling the morning with all the delights of the valley we returned to Guildford and the selection of somewhere to get lunch. Now there are a number of pubs near the centre of the old town – The Rose and Crown – well we had been there, the Stirling Arms built in 1852, or the Guildford Hotel which had been the subject of a fire and we decided to go to the last one Guildford Hotel to see what they had done to the menu and whether it was all burnt up. The reno looked positive so fingers crossed for the menu.

With our bellys full we decided to slow the pace and take a walk in the park – Stirling Park on the other side of the rail line. To get to the park we had to cross the rail line in Meadows St and we encountered the first of a number of memorials to the Tenth Light Horse Regiment. The first is the Guildford Town War Memorial, then Guildford’s Artillery Guns and the Memorial Gates. The Guildford Town War Memorial remembers the many men who served in World War 1, the 25 pound Artillery pieces are replacements for two earlier guns, a captured Howitzer from WW1 and a twenty five pounder from WW2 and the Memorial Gates originally from Perth Railway Station presented to the town to honour the men of the Tenth Light Horse Regiment.

There are a number of other memorials but I was very taken by the Tenth Light Horse Statue developed by Charles Robb as part of a community initiative again in remembrance of the Tenth Light Horse Regiment raised in the town in 1914. It acknowledges the bond between horse and Trooper and support of indigenous horse breakers. None of the horses returned to Australia.

There is more to the park than war memorials, there are the white cockatoos nesting in the caverns in the gum trees.

After a walk in the park we thought about a cup of coffee and recalled Yahava Koffeeworks that we had driven passed. It was on the way home so we called in. In the carpark we found an old Toyota – someone enjoyed the coffee and decided to stay. The garden was pretty but I think I may have been getting bored at this time. Inside they were roasting beans and there was every known apparatus for drinking the brew. They even had a water view to enjoy the brew and finally there was the bird bath – bye bye birdee.

I was pretty tired by then and so we ended the day in front of the fire at home with a glass and watching the Olympics. We have picked up some local products and decided that between the wine and local product that was it for the night. Tomorrow is another day, more fire wood to be chopped and Galahs (the birds) to be fed so I would need my kip.

November 2024

THE RETIREES AND FRIENDS VISIT PERTH AND MARGARET RIVER – days 8 & 9 Back to our Itinerary in Margaret River

Star Date 2nd August 2024

Our next destination was the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse located on the headland of the most south-westerly point on the mainland Australia.

The light tower which is built of local stone was originally designed to show two lights – a higher white light and a lower red light. Although the foundations were completed, the lower light was never installed. It was opened with great ceremony in 1895. Until June 1982 the lens was rotated by a counter weight driving clockwork mechanism, and the beacon was a pressure kerosene mantle type. A radio navigation beacon was commissioned in 1955 and operated until 1992. The lighthouse was automated in 1982. The lighthouse, besides being a navigational aid, serves as an important automatic weather station. The lighthouse’s buildings and grounds are now vested in the local tourism body and the single (1960s) and double (1980s) communications towers that were north-west of the lighthouse, seen in older photographs of Cape Leeuwin, have been removed.

We approached the lighthouse from Augusta. The rock below commemorates the landing of the first settlers in 1830 from the Brig Emily Taylor . From that point you look out across a broad bay and behind us you can see the rock walls protecting the new marina. Immediately behind the memorial is a rock shelf decorated with the seaweed washed ashore. A bit further along is another memorial this time to Capt. Matthew Flinders RN aboard the HMS Investigator 6th December 1801 when he sighted Cape Leeuwin and commenced mapping the coast of Australia. Atop of the memorial are the features that can be sighted from this point such as the conjunction of the Indian Ocean and the Great Southern Ocean.

The reason we came this way – I don’t recall but the vista of the lighthouse emphasises the remoteness of this point. The light keepers house and other out buildings and water tanks can be seen on the right hand side of the photos. The entrance takes you into the coffee shop and gift shop and then you make your way through each of the following buildings with museums and artifacts all of which i think is to disguise how far you have to walk to get to the lighthouse. Finally we got to the reason for coming here today – to see the meeting of the two oceans

The climb to the viewing deck of the lighthouse consists of 176 steps. Enough said.

Returning north along Caves Rd we encountered the Lake Cave. It is a stunning crystal wonderland, situated deep beneath the earth. The entrance of the cave lies at the base of a spectacular sinkhole. Visitors descend a staircase through an ancient sinkhole called a doline, gazing up at the towering karri trees from the floor of the sunken forest. Inside the cave a tranquil lake reflects the delicate crystal formations that grow from the cave ceiling and dazzling crystal formations dominate the cave roof, while the unique ‘Suspended Table’ is perfectly reflected in the tranquil water below.

Droplets hang from the tips of straws and stalactites before dropping to the cave floor or into the lake creating ripples in the water’s reflections. The unique ‘Suspended Table’ formation, which weighs several tonnes and seems to defy gravity as it hovers above the clear lake water is one of the unique features within the cave. We took a guided. They say there is moderate physical exertion required to enter this cave. Don’t believe it for a minute – easy going down but when you make your way back up the staircase of the magnificent doline do it at your own pace.

Looking at the photos we start at the Visitors centre and from there you walk out onto a deck above a huge sinkhole – you have to see it to believe it. As you go down there are a number of changes in direction and this has alot to do with the return journey being exhausting. You will see a large rock lying on its side (from the left down photo 8) and this is a staligmite that collsaped during a recent bush fire almost sealing off the entrance to the cave. The photo to the right of the staligmite is the hole it came from. The inside the cave is like a fairyland. Photos 10 and 11 show you the suspended table formed by flood waters through the cave. The final photo #17 is the doorway to the tunnel that was drilled to release the flood water to preserve the cave.

Well we have visited many caves around the world, but we were about to encounter the worst return to the Visitors Centre – up the stairs. Well I don’t know how many stairs but both Kerry and I took at least half an hour to climb out of the hole and that was it for us that day. Dale and Zdravka patiently awaited our climb and I may have had a nanny nap going home. Tomorrow we will go north again to Busselton – no stairs.

THE RETIREES AND FRIENDS VISIT PERTH AND MARGARET RIVER – day 6 Back to our Itinerary in Margaret River

Star Date 30th July 2024

We were staying approximately 70m from the main street of Margaret River Village in an old looking cottage that has been modernised. It is on a brick base which forms a basement with a carpark not built for a Landcruiser and above is the front deck leading into a very small living room with fireplace, small dining area, a small galley kitchen, our bedroom which only just fits a double bed, a short hallway leading to the bathroom and back door where a porch brings you onto the back yard probably 3m wide. Here stand the chopping block for the fire wood to be split. The house is surrounded by trees. Of particular interest is the avocado tree which has fruit on it but without a ladder very much out of reach fruit. Of a morning and evening pink and white Galahs, pigeons and an occasional kookaburra come to be feed on the front deck, a ritual created by everyone who has stayed here and perpetuated by the landlord providing the seed. The house has a loft and this was the domain of Dale and Zdravka – two bedrooms and a bathroom.

We had brought some beverages to put in the fridge so after lighting the fire which I kept adequately stocked with split logs, we would feed the birds turn on the TV (the Olympics was on) and have some refreshments with the birds scrabbling away on the deck to get their fair share of seed. Of course there was spillage and that brought a local chook to pick up the scraps. Here are a few photos of the birds and one of the house.

Now its all very well to have an itinerary but following it can some times be difficult as we were about to find out. Despite the best laid plans, we were going to Cape Naturaliste lighthouse. Then onto House of Cards Vineyard, Vasse Virgin, Fishbone Japanese inspired dining, and Margaret River Chocolates but we did not know that nor did the driver. The lighthouse is north of Margaret River village but well worth the drive. You may have noticed the french twist on the name of the cape. Cape Naturaliste, in the south west of Western Australia, is the site of a lighthouse which was activated in 1904. The tower, positioned on a 100 m high bluff overlooking Geographe Bay, was constructed in 1903.The lighthouse is constructed of limestone quarried from nearby Bunker Bay, which was also known as the Quarries.

The French twist comes from French explorer Nicolas Baudin, after his ship, Géographe.  The bay was named in May 1801 and is a wide curve of coastline extending from Cape Naturaliste past the towns of Dunsborough and Busselton, ending near the city of Bunbury. Geographe Bay is in the south-west of Western Australia, around 220 kilometres (140 mi) southwest of Perth.

It is a 20-metre-high (66 ft) cylindrical tower built of limestone that still uses its original first order Fresnel lens made by Chance Brothers. Another precious lens optic is displayed there, the second order Fresnel lens of the Jarman Island Light, as well as the original Great Sandy Islands beacon. Both items were originally used on the Pilbara coast further north.

The entrance leads us through the original lighthouse keepers dwelling and other out buildings which now contain a museum and of course the gift shop.

The handset as seen being used by Kerry is in fact a recording of the ship wreck of the Carnarvon Castle in 1907. It is a chilling re-enactment. The lighthouse is not the tallest nor the brightest light but in this setting it gives a romantic/heroic feel to the whole area.

We then returned to the car planning to visit Vasse Virgin home of the olive shampoo but memories got in the road. Driving along Kerry and I recognised a favourite winery of our last trip over here – House of Cards. As we drove in an air of despair came in through the window. It looked sad and unkempt. Its neighbour the chocolate shop was gone and everything looked tied except for the smart looking restaurant behind the cellar door. The cellar assistant told us that the winery had changed hands many years ago (just after our visit) and it had lost its glitter. So we visited the restaurant it being that time of day. Oops forgot my cheque book – a touch too rich for us. Moving along to Vasse Virgin, we entered a beautiful row of trees either side of the entry.

Vasse Virgin is a factory with a gift shop attached. Here they make Kerry’s favourite shampoo and conditioner using olive oil which has been a real find for her treating her psoriasis. Whatever else they do does not matter – Kerry pulls out her bulk containers and says “Fill ’em up”. So I have a look around and whilst it is quite impressive and obviously successful its all girlie stuff – No Sale.

Hunger has grabbed the attention of Dale who having heard the words”Japanese style dining” is looking for “Fishbone”. We find Margaret River Chocolate Company but across the road there hiding in the bushes is Fishbone. Well I have been off my food and the thought of any food was not appealing but in we go. Not only is it a restaurant but its part cellar door and distillery – something for everyone. The 165-acre Fishbone estate is a picturesque expanse of gently sloping hills, falling into the Wilyabrup brook. Against the backdrop of the vineyard, is a fresh, refined and elegant Japanese restaurant. The food is excellent and we grabbed a bottle of wine and bottle of gin.

The chocolate company was identical to the same named establishment in Margaret River so we did not spend much time there. We decided to call it a day and pulled up stumps. Home for the fire and more Olympics.

November 2024

THE RETIREES AND FRIENDS VISIT PERTH AND MARGARET RIVER – SWAN VALLEY – day 4 Back to our Itinerary

Star Date 29th July 2024

Dale and Zdravka have planned to go to the Pinnacles and without the use of Ken’s car we decided to hitch a ride. The Pinnacles are limestone formations within Nambung National Park, near the town of Cervantes, Western Australia 2 hours drive north of Perth. Dale had his trusty new Landcruiser at hand with plenty of space for all. The drive proved trouble free and we were treated to some unique countryside. Note the unique intrusion of the sand into the surrounding scrub in photos # 6 & 7 (reading left to right down the page).

The weather was slightly overcast but the air-con was on and we were sweet. As we came closer to the area around Cervantes the country was flat with scrubby bushes but as we drawing nearer suddenly there were sand hills rolling in across the top of the scrub and to match the sand hills the clouds piled up promising rain at some stage. Below are pictures of the pinnacles. You can walk freely among the pinnacles and it reminds me of walking among headstones in a cemetery.

There was a visitor’s centre with an interesting museum on the wildlife and the Aboriginals tales about the origins of the Pinnacles – a bit more interesting than the speculation by the scientists about the creation of the rock formations. Fascinating to wander through and see how the animals and birds used them. Referring to our tour itinerary we decided it was time for the Lobster Shack in Cervantes for lunch. Zdravka had spent hours piecing together our tour making this a relaxing holiday for us in the back seat. Cervantes is named after a ship that was wrecked nearby. The ship, in turn, was named after Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote. The principal industry in the town is fishing particularly Lobster. The Pinnacles in nearby Nambung National Park and the saline Lake Thetis, which contains stromatolites, supports a small tourism industry which helps out the economy of the area. Firstly we stopped off at a beach and touched the Indian Ocean then into Cervantes and the Lobster Shack.

The Lobster shack – watch out for the robbing sea gulls.

Leaving Cervantes and onto the saline Lake Thetis, which contains stromatolites. “Stromatolites – Greek for ‘layered rock’ – are microbial reefs created by cyanobacteria”. These deposits built up very slowly: a single 1m structure may be 2,000 to 3,000 years old. But the tiny microbes that make up modern Stromatolites are similar to organism that existed 3.5 billion years ago! What’s more, Stromatolites are the reason why we’re alive today! Before cyanobacteria the air was only 1% oxygen. Then, for 2 billion years, photosynthesising Stromatolites pumped oxygen into the oceans (like underwater trees, before trees existed). When the oceans’ waters were saturated, oxygen was released into the air, and with around 20% of oxygen in the air, life was able to flourish and evolve. For context, consider that the Earth itself has been around for 4.5 billion years, and that modern Homo sapiens have only been on Earth for 160,000 years.

Finally we had to climb this hill and look at the ocean to end our visit to Cervantes.

I may have nodded off on the way home- old people do that.

However it was the end to an enjoyable day. The Pinnacles presented a foreign landscape out of place until we experienced the Stramatolites of Lake Thetis and somehow it makes sense – billions of years have passed and this is the outcome.