19TH MAY TO 10TH JUNE 2026
Day 9 Dunedin to Lake Tekapo.
Before leaving Dunedin, we decided to visit The Dunedin Museum Toitū Otago Settlers Museum that features the history of arrivals and immigration to Dunedin. Located in the central city, it focuses on the social history of the region, featuring life-size depictions of early immigrant boats, pioneer portrait galleries, and stories of past and present arrivals. The key highlights for me were:
- Smith Gallery featuring hundreds of portraits of Otago’s early pioneers.
- Immigration Boat Exhibit a life-size depiction of the interior of an immigrant boat, giving a sense of the long journeys from Britain.
- Different forms of transport including “Josephine,” a green steam locomotive transported from England in 1872.
Smith Gallery, Ship gallery exhibition and early transport exhibition
Moving on from Dunedin we drove north to the Moeraki Boulders on the beach of the same name, off State Highway 1, between Hampden and Moeraki. The Moeraki Boulders are massive, naturally spherical calcite concretions scattered along Koekohe Beach on New Zealand’s South Island. Exposed by coastal erosion, each boulder weighs several tonnes and measures up to two metres high. We walked up the beach checking out these unique boulders, then made way through the bush above the beach to the cafe on the beach.
Boulders on the beach and returning to the cafe
Sitting in the sun we ate fish and chips taking in the unobstructed view of the beach and its surrounds. As soon as we recived our lunch we were joined by a young cat, likely a stray, and he greedily snapped up our leftovers. Travelling through the Waitaki Valley we headed to our destination a B&B called Serendipity located at 20 Hamilton Dve. Lake Tekapo. It is a two-storey house with a fireplace, and we had much joy in lighting the fireplace warming us and the house. It had a deck facing the village and the lake although views of the lake were obstructed by other houses.
The café, the road through Waitaki Valley and the mist.
Day 10 Lake Tekapo
We arrived in Lake Tekepo late in the evening. Our accomodation was 5minutes drive from the centre of town but still carried some of the early settlers landmarks. After starting the fire we got down to the serious business of playing cards and snacking on cheese and the like. Next morning Kerry and I walked down to the main road passing a stopover/dump station for camper vans and sheep pens known as Tekepo Sales Yards which once served as a central focal point for high-country farmers gathering to trade livestock.
The lake, the pens, the dump station and the mountains
After breakfast we climbed aboard the car and headed to the famous statue on the shores of Lake Tekapo: The Sheepdog Memorial. It is a life-sized bronze sculpture of a Collie sheepdog perched on a pedestal of local rocks. Located 100 meters east of the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd, it stands as a monument to the hard-working dogs that made high-country farming possible. The memorial was just around the corner from our B&B but already there was a crowd of people at the monument and the Church.
The Sheepdog Memorial and Church of the Good Shepherd
The Church of the Good Shepherd was in sight of the memorial and unfortunately it was defaced by scaffolding to enable repairs. So, we walked to the church and entry was not permitted. The church and grounds were closed from Wednesday 20 May – Friday 29 May 2026 to facilitate earthquake strengthening work on the bellcote. As access to the interior was not possible, we walked on to a footbridge crossing the waterway entering the lake. The footbridge was a modern construction replacing at least 2 other bridges and connected to the carpark serving the tourist shops but empty at winter time. We walked around to the Dark Sky Project building. The Dark Sky Project is a world-renowned astro-tourism venture that offers guided stargazing tours, multimedia astronomy exhibits, and dining in the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. Inside the building was several multimedia astronomy experiences, fabulous views over the lake and a coffee shop of course. Whilst enjoying our coffee I noticed a huge telescope inside the building so I took a photograph hoping I would do it justice. The centrepiece telescope displayed is the historic 18-inch (45.7-cm) Brashear Telescope, a famous Victorian-era refracting telescope crafted in 1894. Have a look at the surface of the hot chocolate that Kerry ordered. Yes its Saturn.
The footbridge, the Brashear Telescope, Dark Sky Project building, and Kerry’s hot chocolate
We were keen to join one of their tours. There are 2 tours on offer: the Observatory Tour (Evening stargazing tour at the University of Canterbury Mt John Observatory located on the summit of Mt John and the Crater Experience (Stargazing from a purpose-built, sheltered crater enclosure for a highly immersive viewing environment). We chose the Crater Experience as the drive to the observatory on top of the mountain at night did not appeal to us.
After purchasing our tour tickets, we decided that we would drive to the Mount John Observatory. It is a comparatively short drive to the foot of the mountain but that is where a comfortable drive ends. We made it to the car park before the crowds fortunately and I was able to snap this panoramic photo of the observatory hill. I walked toward the edge overlooking the village below and then turning a further 90 degrees I snapped a further panorama.
Time for another coffee and lunch so up we went to the Sky Café with its space scene at its entry. Here Kerry purchased her perfect drink vessel, and we perched on top of the mountain to have our lunch when joined by a flock of sparrows. They sat in that thorny bush until we moved on and then it was lunch for them.
The observatory and café, overlooking the village and lake, 90 degrees to the right, the observatory close up the café entrance, sparrows in thorny bush, solitary island in the lake.
We went back to the village and while walking through it we read that Bill the Bard was delivering a performance on the lakes edge starting at sunset. Well, we rested for the rest of the afternoon as we would join Bill for his performance and then go to the Crater experience. Sunset and we sat at the listening circle awaiting Bill’s arrival. Dark Sky Project was alive with people in the restaurant and then Bill arrived in an old station wagon, and he hopped out in his kilt to unload his gear. This was a bloody cold night and the wind up his kilt must have chilled. At first, it was bill and the 4 of us but by the time bill had unloaded the 44-gallon drum fireplace and his drum we had another family join us. The moon was almost full; the sun had almost disappeared behind the observatory on the mountain and Bill started on his drum. He told his story and we had a sing-along then he produced an umbrella which he raised and lit with light providing imitation of the Milky Way. For this performance he left it to the audience to determine his value, so we rewarded him modestly but retained the memory of Bill the Bard.
Sunset at the lake, Dark Sky alive, the moon, the mountain, the fireplace, Bill and his magic umbrella
We enjoyed a fish and chip dinner in a Chinese café (yes, I am still puzzled that we ordered in one café and went next door to collect the meals from a different café which we consumed in the first café). Refreshed and watered we went back to Dark Sky project to board our bus to the Crater Experience. Barry waited under a rather threatening sign but the threating arm was a shadow from a mannequin. Right on time the bus arrived, and we began our Crater Experience. There were about 20 of us on the bus. Fifteen minutes down the main road we turned off into the bush and wound our way to a circle of shipping containers and sundry sheds. Our astronomy hostess was from the University of Canterbury the institution that operated the Mount John Observatory and manned the café with students. We went around the dark sky, and she pointed out salient points. Her assistants meanwhile lined up two telescopes for us to use to more closely observe the sky. It was a very enjoyable but very cold experience, so it was great to get back on the bus.
Barry under threat, the Crater, me and the telescope, Kerry and the telescope, the night sky and the moon through the telescope.
Home to bed and Lake Tekapo to Christchurch tomorrow. Keep watching for Episode 5 here on THE RETIREES VISIT THE SOUTH ISLAND ACROSS THE DITCH.
