THE RETIREES VISIT THE SOUTH ISLAND ACROSS THE DITCH blog 495 Episode 2

19TH MAY TO 10TH JUNE 2026

Day 5.                Today we are headed from Te Anu to Invercargill but we had to stop for coffee at the smallest coffee shop. It was clearly a diversified income stream for the laundry operating behind it as our barista came from the laundry to serve us.

Invercargill was 2.1/2 hours away and we would be staying at the Ibis Styles in Tay St. Invercargill. It had been our plan to look for stops on the way – yes, for coffee but stops of interest. There was one thing common about all the scenery, and this was the plantations of pine trees. Plantation forests are dominated by Radiata pine (Pinus radiata). Introduced in the 1800s, this incredibly fast-growing species is used for everything from structural timber to pulp. While plantation forests are strictly managed, the South Island faces a significant ecological crisis from wilding pines. These are self-seeded, invasive pine trees often Contorta pine and Douglas fir. These wilding pines choke out native alpine vegetation, use vast amounts of water, and ruin natural landscapes.

On the way to Invercargill, we expected to pass over Clifden Suspension Bridge. Wikipedia says “The historic Clifden Suspension Bridge is located in Southland on the South Island of New Zealand. Built in 1899, this 111-meter wooden and steel bridge spans the Waiau River and features a Category 1 Historic classification. Originally built to replace a ferry punt and connect the region, it was the longest suspension bridge in the country. It was closed to vehicular traffic in 1978 when a modern bridge was built nearby. Today, it is pedestrian-only and serves as a popular roadside stop for photographs and historical appreciation.”

So, here we are at Clifden Suspension Bridge.

The Bridge and its history, the Waiau River

Out comes the coffee and biscuits and we appreciate the work and effort to construct such a bridge in 1899 in the wilds of the South Island. Suitably refreshed (Barry had picked up some Scotch Fingers whilst I had picked up a packet of Biscoff biscuits and prepared vanilla latte sachets, Kerry had her Spicy Chai Latte and the thermos of hot water) we motored on now following the coastline. McCracken’s Rest just off the main road, caught our eye for our next stop. No idea who McCracken may be nor why he rested here (no sign of a grave) but it has awesome views up and down the coast. From here we are closer to Stewart Island than Invercargill! We are right at the bottom of the South Island. According to a sign nearby “Locals appreciate McCracken’s Rest for its stunning coastal views and proximity to attractions like Monkey Island and Gemstone Beach.” After reading this Barry needed to see Monkey Island.

McCracken’s Rest, up and down the beach (Stewart Is in the background) Tuatapere history board.

We drove to Monkey Island a rocky knob which becomes an island at high tide. Well, Barry scrambled up one side, and I thought I chose an easier route up the other side but oh No! I was wrong and tumbled backward knocking my head. Very stupid and dangerous for me having previously broken my neck surfing and now with my head screwed on by a fusion of my C4 to C7 vertebrae. But I am still here to write about it. Kerry watched my fall from the beach causing her great grief. Not a high point of our holiday but a lesson learnt by me.

Monkey Island

I had no side effects from my tumble other than a bruised ego and an annoyed wife. So, we moved onto Riverton for lunch visiting the Aparima Hotel. We had an enjoyable lunch in a warm cosy atmosphere. There seemed too many locals having lunch and enjoying themselves, so I googled The Aparima Hotel and found according to google that it “is a well-loved historic establishment” on the South Island. “It had burned down in a devastating fire in 2013, but the site has since been successfully rebuilt as the Aparima Restaurant & Bar.” We can attest to that.

Aparima Restaurant and Bar

We moved onto Invercargill arriving at our hotel around 3.00pm Saturday. Barry and Sandi had plans of visiting Stewart Island, but their enquiries changed their minds. They could not do a day trip and would need to stay overnight. Whether that was a seasonal thing or not, they decided to do things with us which changed our very loose plans. The hotel was not as expected either. It was in one of the main streets of the CBD and there was, despite our being told otherwise, no onsite parking. Parking on the street was free on the weekend but after 8.00am on Monday the parking on the street would be free for 20mins only. This still didn’t give us secure parking off the street. On the positive side, we had comfortable rooms and access to a lounge which gave us plenty of room to play cards and prepare meals and lunches.

Day 6                 The following day Barry revealed that he had discovered a motorbike museum nearby. Now Barry is still riding and couldn’t wait to view the museum. The legacies of George Begg and Burt Munro are displayed at Classic Motorcycle Mecca. Classic Motorcycle Mecca and E. Hayes & Sons. are also located in central Invercargill and showcase New Zealand’s incredible motorsport and engineering history. Most of the motorcycles in the collection were originally acquired by Tom and Heather Sturgess. In 2016 Sturgess announced that he had undergone major surgery, and that the collection of almost 300 motorcycles, eventually was sold to Transport World in Invercargill to be relocated to new premises in Invercargill.

So, we visited the museum and what a phenomenal exhibition it is. We started in the café which had some interesting bits and pieces. After coffee (of course we had coffee!) Barry and I entered the museum. Gob smacked at the number and variety of motorcycles, we wandered through the ground floor where we discovered the original elevator for the building and the original mobile washing service run by Mary Watson on her Indian Scout motorcycle and side car. How did the Messerschmitt three-wheeler get in there? And the twin rider Whizzer from 1948?

One of the two buildings with The Café beside it, the museum entrance and ground floor showroom, Mrs Watson’s Indian Scout, the Messerschmitt and the Whizzer.

But there’s more downstairs.

Photos              Push bikes and the George Begg Collection

But there’s more upstairs from the ground floor. However I have run out of space so to see the World’s Fastest Indian you will need to go to Episode 3

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Glendon

Retired Australian Lawyer having worked representing the innocent and the not so innocent in Australia and some of the remote parts of the world and having travelled widely through Europe, Western Russia, Canada, USA, New Zealand, Thailand Malaysia Solomon Islands northern China, Hong Kong and the UAE So now that I have the time I am writing about my travels present and past. Hope you enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

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