Author: Glendon

Retired Australian Lawyer having worked representing the innocent and the not so innocent in Australia and some of the remote parts of the world and having travelled widely through Europe, Western Russia, Canada, USA, New Zealand, Thailand Malaysia Solomon Islands northern China, Hong Kong and the UAE So now that I have the time I am writing about my travels present and past. Hope you enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

The Retirees go Abroad – France Norway UK and Ireland – Hammerfest then the Arctic Cathedral Tromso

Next morning, we enjoy a lie in and a peaceful preparation for breakfast. Today we go to Hammerfest at 10.15 and then Tromso at 23.45 for the midnight concert. Hammerfest is a really pleasant town but shame about the weather. The tour manager recommends we buy spikes for this visit due to the icy conditions. The best advice. They stretch over your shoe and provide a very efficient set of spikes for walking on ice and icy surfaces. As I said earlier I spotted two outstanding churches in this town as we departed going North so I have the opportunity to see them. They are certainly remarkable but there are churches everywhere in this town including the Seventh Day Adventists. The Polar Bear Club is located in the tourist info centre and to see the display is free but you can join the club for what purpose I don’t know.

Home for lunch a walk in the gym (the decks are still icy – we are in the Arctic circle) on the treadmill. Whilst I had a nanna nap to prepare for tonight, the boat moves on to Tromsø, a city in Norway, which is a major cultural hub above the Arctic Circle. It’s famed as a viewing point for colorful Northern Lights that sometimes light up the nighttime sky. The city’s historic center, on the island of Tromsø, is distinguished by its centuries-old wooden houses. The 1965 Arctic Cathedral, with its distinctive peaked roof and soaring stained-glass windows, dominates the skyline. Dinner, read my book then at 2345 we join the rush to the concert. The obligatory bus ride to the Arctic Cathedral.

Wow it is surprising. My first impression was a mini Sydney Opera House. It is made up of a series of inverted concrete “Vs” with the ends closed off with stained glass windows. Very simple design with stunning effect. The concert turned out to be a presentation by a soprano, female flautist and male pianist presenting Norwegian instrumental and vocal pieces, and Sami folk music called “yoiks”. They started off at the organ on the mezzanine (a 26-piece pipe organ) and progressed to the temporary platform at the front. Very pleasant and the musicians superbly accomplished. To bed as we are off again in the morning at 0800.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France Norway UK and Ireland – Vadso

An hour in the gym and then Kerry wanted to get off at the next stop – that’s now! Shower, dress for the snow (still – 10 degrees but now the wind is gusting to 20 knots) and out into the wilds of Vadso. Not heard of it? Vadsø is a municipality in Finnmark county, Norway. The administrative centre of the municipality is the town of Vadsø, which is also the administrative centre of Finnmark county. Apart from a memorial (which was covered in snow and we could not see it) and a fort which was treacherous due to wind and ice there was not much to see.

Back to the boat share an orange whilst the ship leaves port.

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After dinner they show a DVD on Pomor trading which showed that Vadso was the most important centre in this trade with the Russians from around the White Sea. The Russians were traditional orthodox and were being persecuted by the new order in Moscow. So they commenced trade with the Norwegians to buy fish which helped the Norwegians who were very poor.

Pomor trade, is the trade carried out between the Pomors of Northwest Russia and the people along the coast of Northern Norway, as far south as Bodø. The trade went on from 1740 and until the Russian revolution in 1917.

The pomor trade began as a barter trade between people in the area, trading grain products from Russia with fish from North Norway as the main trade. With time it developed into a regular trade against money: in fact the ruble was used as currency in several places in North Norway. The pomor trade was of major importance both to Russians and Norwegians. The trade was carried out by Russian pomors from the White Sea area and the Kola peninsula who came sailing to settlements and places of trade along the coast of North Norway. The pomors were skilled traders and sailors, and they did also explore the areas around the White sea. In addition to their trade westwards, they established a trade route east across the Ural mountains to North Siberia.

Bloody shame they did not show this before we arrived at Vadso.

Off to bed. I am buggered but just able to finish my book before tumbling into sleep. A disturbance during the night woke me at 1.30am. Out of one eye I saw Kerry go out the door – meeting her boyfriend? No the northern lights – Kerry is off for some photos and I fall straight back to sleep.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France Norway UK and Ireland – Hammerfest, and Honnisvag

When I arose this morning we were just leaving Hammerfest. It was 0615 and -8 degrees. An hour walk around the deck and it had dropped to -10 degrees. I saw two most spectacular churches this morning and look forward to seeing them on our return journey south.

We visit Honnisvag this morning. It is on an island which claims to be the most northern settled island in Europe. I visit our neighbours who are just arising. We have decided we don’t need a bus trip to see another monument, so we have tramped the town and found a wonderful little museum on the history of the island and other things. Pictures of life for the Sami residents were fascinating. We found the statue of a local hero -a gnome of giant proportions who befriended Kerry.There was a moving story about a St. Bernard dog which served in the Norwegian navy in the Second World War called “Bamse”. It ended up on a mine sweeper working off Montrose in Scotland and died there with a monument erected to its memory and duplicated here in Honnisvag where the story started. This really felt and looked Arctic. I think it’s -10 degrees today. We continued to look around the town with the black ice making it interesting.

There was a seafarers’ church made in timber and surrounded by ice but worth the trip to see inside.

On board the ship we were tempted onto the back deck to see some King Crabs. These crabs originate from Russian seas to the east but the Russians transplanted them in an experiment and they have grown in numbers so that the Norwegians now harvest them. Have a guess what was on the menu for dinner. Stopped long enough to get some photos but with the temperature dropping to minus 14 degrees a short spell was all I wanted. Of course on the coldest night we receive the call for more lights. I poked the camera out and got one good photo.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France Norway UK and Ireland – Kirkenes

Its Nerida’s birthday. We meet at the breakfast table and she breaks open the gifts. Kerry kept her busy in Bodo whilst I secured the gift and despite carrying it with me in her company around Bodo she never once asked what it was that I bought.

It’s an early start and I have not had my walk (too f****n cold but I missed it) and feeling a bit grumpy. We are off to do dog sledding at the Ice Hotel in Kirkenes. Kirkenes is a town in Sør-Varanger Municipality in Finnmark county, in the far northeastern part of Norway. The town lies on a peninsula along the Bøkfjorden, an arm of the large Varangerfjorden. All aboard the bus with the tour led by our little Miss Heindriksen (we caught her hiding in the bus shelter to have a ciggie) and off we go turning right at the turn off to Murmansk USSR otherwise we would have been looking at Russian guns not Norwegian Huskies.

On arriving we had to change into our winter gear. We walked past the Gabba Restaurant – yes the Gabba. Then we got acquainted with the dogs. The dog sledding was good as for the first time I got to ride in the sled instead of helping the dogs push the damn thing. Bumpy ride but those little dogs raced across snow, ice and fjord without breaking into a sweat (it was -10 degrees). Getting dressed and undressed for these occasions is the killer as you feel like a blimp with all the gear on over the top of your own warm gear.

We also inspected the ice hotel which was different from our experiences in Quebec some years ago. I was not tempted to stay. We farewell Kirkenes and started our trip back to the South. It has been very dry in Norway with not much snow. Well that has changed as it has now been snowing for an hour and no sign of stopping. Oh yes this is where Kerry lost her IPhone. It is somewhere on the fiord.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France, Norway, UK and Ireland – Camp Tamok and Sami village

Next morning, we arose late at 0730 and dined at 0830 with Jim and Mary before docking at Finnsnes and heading off to Camp Tamok for our wilderness adventure. Finnsnes is a small town located in the municipality of Lenvik in Troms county, Norway. The town is located on the mainland part of Norway, across the Gisundet strait from the island of Senja. Our bus driver had a hole in his throat and used a hand held “microphone ” which he held at the hole in order to speak. While travelling through the countryside he took a call on his mobile – the mobile in one hand, voice enhancer in the other and driving the bus with his knee – no trouble! On the way we passed a 4 wheel drive that had slid off the road just to show how much of a risk he was taking.

2 hours on the bus then we were greeted by Rufuo a Sami who became the tour leader. A change into warmer gear (it is now -10c) and I was heading off to snow mobiles (skidoo) while Kerry went with Doug and Nerida on the Husky sledges and Reindeer ride. The snow mobile was exciting but most of the participants were novices so the guide took it easy particularly after there was a rollover by one of the snow mobiles. I was conscious also that I had a passenger a Dutch lady travelling with her girlfriend. Then having finished the snow mobile ride we went to the reindeer where Rufuo introduced us to his animals and told us a bit about Sami life (including that he kills these animals and butchers them for meat for his family). Riding on the traditional sleds was very peaceful and slow. Temperature -14 degrees. Back to the Sami village (a mock up) to the Sami lavu (tent) for some of bambi in a stew and a cup of tea. Then another one and a half hours in the bus to catch the boat in Tromso.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France, Norway, UK and Ireland – Trondheim, Bodo and aurora borealis

Third day on board started with a 5 klm walk around the deck on level 5 whilst the ship docked at Trondheim. Spectacular views of the harbour in the morning light. Kerry joined me for the first 20 minutes. This docking is becoming rather mundane. After breakfast we caught the bus to the city “sentrum” and walked up town finding interesting things like the hole in the road exposing a window below ground, the old town with its quaint timber buildings and note the steps which indicate the depth of snow expected yearly. Then the old docks redeveloped as a modern residential area and the old warehouses now redeveloped as residences.

We were making our way to Nidadros Cathedral. A Christian cathedral in medieval style. After the Norwegian reformation in 1524 it is now Lutheran. Most unusual to see such an ornamented stone building as a Lutheran Church. It is very detailed with many grotesques adorning the roof and windows. We started to walk back to the ship and found the Love Bridge adorned with the locks of lovers swearing undying love. As we made our way back we ran into this tiger – uni students raising money to save Sumatran tigers.

But we ran out of time and with the ship leaving on time – no excuses we caught a cab back and had a lazy afternoon watching the scenery, a very remote lighthouse, the sunset and answering emails. It was during this time that we sailed into the Arctic Circle. With the onset of the evening we passed the beacon marking the outer edge of the circle. We are in the territory of the “northern lights”.

Day 4 on board the boat and after half a dozen stops overnight we pull into Ornes to drop off passengers.

Then onto Bodo. Bodo is just past the Arctic Circle so the ship’s crew initiated everyone stupid enough to have ice poured down their back whilst in 0 degrees on the back of deck 7. There was a competition to guess the time the ship crossed the circle and I speculated 0712.00. The correct time was 0711.59 and you would not credit it but 3 kids from Israel won.

We sailed past an old volcanic cone topped with snow before tying up in Bodo. Bodo is an ordinary town but interesting to stroll around for the afternoon. We rugged up and then strolled past the “Spare ” Bank took a seat on the street furniture and visited a more traditional Lutheran Church.

The girls found a kitchen shop and whilst I cooled my heels I noticed some of the street art – it grabbed my attention.

Then we visited Svolvaer and an ice sculpture museum – a short visit as the ship only docked for an hour. As we sailed out of the harbour the fish dry racks were illuminated and looked like a modern church reflected in the waters of the harbour.

Back on the boat at 2315 to be exact. We enjoyed Norwegian fish cakes and mulled rum also on the back of deck 7. Temperature now -2 degrees. Got to bed about 24.00 nodded off to sleep and there is an announcement that the northern lights can be seen. Bolted upstairs (deck 3 to deck 7) in my night attire with a big coat over the top to freeze whilst looking at the northern lights (aurora borealis) and grabbed some photos. Back to bed and a sleep in before going on our wilderness adventure.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France, Norway, UK and Ireland – We are Sailing – Alesund

I’m awake at 4.00 am go to the gym at 5.30 am – shit it does not open till 7.00 am. So I am back again at 7.00 and do a walk till 8.00 am then find Kerry having a cup of hot chocolate with Doug and Nerida but the ocean has started to chop up and the ship is tossing. Kerry is not well and goes to the fresh air (4c and 25 knots) on the back deck and we go to breakfast. Kerry retires to bed but as I type the sea is calm we have docked in Torvig for 1/2hr and Kerry has left the cabin without leaving a note.

I have found her just as I expected on the back deck. We will soon dock at Alesund for the afternoon. Alesund is a coastal city of about 40,000 people with a large hill in the middle or so it seems.

We wandered the town looking for the information centre even tried to walk up the hill but only got half way before coming to the 481 steps to the top. After finding the info centre we fell upon a great plan we will catch a cab to the top and walk down. The cabbie was charming and provided us with some history of the town where he had grown up. It is actually made up of 3 principal islands although to travel around you would not know this, the hill has largely been hollowed out over the years particularly by the Norwegian resistance during the 2nd World War whilst the top of the hill has German bunkers from that same period.The town burnt to the ground in 1904 except for one house (and he showed us this house – the story is that God spoke to him and told him to stay in the house and the house was untouched) which is being renovated and will be turned into a museum.

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Once at the top of the hill we could see the horizon for 360 degrees and all that was in it. The cabbie told us that one of these islands contained the world’s best recording studio and once per year a festival is held and musician from around the world are invited to pay in exchange for use of the studio.

The walk back down the hill was much easier than going up and the views continued to be magnificent.

Once back to the boat we had time to recover with a few drinks and met Jim and Mary (brother and sister, Jim living in Perth and Slovenia and Mary in London and both claiming to be Aussies). We now run into them all the time – I think they are stalking us.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France, Norway, UK and Ireland – Bergen and Norway

Its 3.50 am when the wakeup call comes. Arising we find it is dark but not overcast – trust it to fine up as we leave. Down to the shuttle and across to the airport to board a plane for Frankfurt then to Bergen. Frankfurt is enormous. We land and enter the terminal at gate A5. Our flight to Bergen leaves from gate A69. Hmm a bit of a walk ahead but we get there in plenty of time in fact we could have caught a flight to Basel we were that early.

Cooled our heels for an hour and a half before we caught the plane and arrived in Bergen. We caught a cab into town and played a guessing game with the driver about his place of birth. It started when Doug asked him about refugees in Norway and comments were made about Afghans in Australia for 200 years. We went all round the world and he turned out to be Afghani. Checked in our luggage at the terminal (cab was the way to go – door to door) and took a walk through the city – did not see much but what we did see was appealing and cold.

We are sailing on the Hurtigruten line. Hurtigruten (“Express Route”) is a daily passenger and freight shipping service along Norway’s western and northern coast between Bergen and Kirkenes. Sometimes referred to as Norwegian Coastal Express, Hurtigruten ships sail almost the entire length of the country, completing the round-trip journey in 11 days. We boarded the ship and went through the safety ritual and the unpacking and then the evening meal – Doug and Kerry both went to bed while Nerida and I represented the team at the next information presentation. Well at least I did Nerida went to sleep in the presentation. Its now 9.30pm and Nerida and I check out the gym and then retire for the night. The ship sets sail at 10.30 and throughout the night we feel it go bump as it docks at various little villages delivering supplies.

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The Retirees go Abroad – France, Norway, UK and Ireland – Bayeaux

Our hotel was very nice but small and offered a nice continental breakfast for 6 euros. So after filling up  we are off to the Tapestry in the Augustinian Abbey in Bayeaux. In true French style it was not open when we arrived  so we dropped in at the Bayeaux Cathedral, Notre Dame de Bayeaux – enthralling majestic and very interesting.

But we are here for the Tapestry so back to the Augustinians – but they are still not up. So we went across the road looking for other highlights of Bayeaux and there to my surprise was an operating water wheel. Still operating we could not determine if it was still part of a mill or generator.

Back to the Augustinians and they had finally opened. We were greeted by the security guard opening the door. Inside a former Abbey the museum is made up of two parts, the tapestry room and then the history of the tapestry. The tapestry room is an air conditioned large room with no natural sunlight. I estimate the room is about 8 metre square with a case containing the tapestry standing in the middle. If I am correct about the size of the room, then the case is 7 metres square and displaying the full tapestry under glass. Remarkable!  After viewing the tapestry we went to the history room which explains how the fabric of the tapestry was made through to how the tapestry survived the trip through history – it has not always been preserved in an air-conditioned secure environment. Well worth the wait though – remarkable piece of history and the history around its preservation is just as remarkable – a must see.

As we are due in Rossypole to meet Doug and Nerida Bishop and fly to Norway tomorrow morning we cannot spend too much time in the museum so we drive onto Rouen and had a brief look around spotting this unusual church, lunch then onto Paris and Rossypole.

Had some entertainment returning the car and then finding our hotel but we made it but now we have lost Doug and Nerida. Back again once we find them. They had left a note with their room number and collapsed into bed with jet lag but the wrong room number. Once raised they joined us for dinner, a wine tasting and some of the sights of Paris – everyone is excited about Norway tomorrow except it is a 4.00 am start.

 

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The Retirees go Abroad – France, Norway, UK and Ireland – Winston Harbour Arromanches

Set sail early for Bayeaux and the WW2 battlefields. Arrived in Bayeaux at the tourist info office and then drove out to Arromanches and the “Winston harbour”. Unfortunately, the bad weather has returned and it is windy and wet. However, this does not dampen our spirit. Arromanches is a village which lives on tourism and in part the D Day invasion. This was the site of the English floating harbour which supported the troops after the invasion. The other harbour at Omaha Beach was to support the American troops and it failed due to bad weather. There are parts of the harbour still in place at Arromanches but the best thing is to go to the local museum which has displays of the construction and how it was planned and deployed.

Still raining, so we went to the Normandie Hotel and had lunch – onion soup followed by mussels Normandie for me and steak for Kerry and a dose of the runs for both of us. But in true stoic fashion we marched on to the American military cemetery – like Arlington in many respects but on this occasion the Americans accepted they were not the only ones winning the war and recognised all nations with a great static and film presentation on all aspects of the invasion and the rest of the war. This was without a doubt spectacular and fitting for the remembrance of the lives lost. We also called in at the Red One museum – not so hot in my view. We then set sail for Utah beach and the museum there but ran out of time. We did not get to see the Bayeaux tapestry and made it our purpose to visit tomorrow.

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