Author: Glendon

Retired Australian Lawyer having worked representing the innocent and the not so innocent in Australia and some of the remote parts of the world and having travelled widely through Europe, Western Russia, Canada, USA, New Zealand, Thailand Malaysia Solomon Islands northern China, Hong Kong and the UAE So now that I have the time I am writing about my travels present and past. Hope you enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

Retirees Go Abroad –Bristol and Bishop’s Knoll

There was a “Bristol during WW1” Remembrance Day exhibition on display at the M Shed. The receptionist recognising our accent invited us to particularly look at the display on private hospitals for soldiers at that time. Amongst the memorabilia war this article about an Australian who threw open his home for Australian soldiers. Here is an excerpt for Bishop’s Knoll and the web links.

“Bristol’s Australians- only hospital

With the outbreak of the First World War a number of wealthy families offered to turn their mansions into convalescent hospitals for wounded soldiers. Bishop’s Knoll War Hospital stands apart as it was the only “make shift” hospital in the area that accepted patients directly from the front. Eventually it was to be used only by Australian soldiers, and it was entirely paid for by former Gloucestershire cricketer Robert Edwin Bush.

Years before the war Bush played for the county alongside the greatest cricketer of all time, WG Grace, but after hanging up his bat Bush spent many years in Australia as a sheep farmer, and made a fortune. On returning to Bristol at the turn of the 20th century, he and his wife Marjorie took up residence at Bishop’s Knoll. With the outbreak of war, Bush wanted to play his part and so set about converting his family home into a war hospital for wounded soldiers.

Having made his fortune in Australia Bush wanted to repay the country that made him so wealthy, and so wanted his home to be used only by Australian soldiers. To start with the Australian authorities refused his offer, before saying that if he wanted to do this then it would have to be staffed by Australians too. Bush disagreed, but finally won his battle in 1916, and for the remainder of the war only soldiers from Down Under were treated at Bishop’s Knoll.

Hundreds of Anzac soldiers came through the gates of the Knoll including Victoria Cross winner John Patrick Hamilton. The care was reported as second to none with Bush himself working there as an orderly. The hospital history reports that after the war a fight broke out in an Australian bar between two men who had been looked after in the West of England during the First World War, both arguing the place they had been treated was better than the other. It was only after the fight that both men realised that they actually been treated at the same hospital – Bishop’s Knoll.

Read more:

http://www.bristolpost.co.uk/Bristol-cricketer-fortune-turned-mansion-hospital/story-22072945-detail/story.html#ixzz3OWq1nqy7

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p022nlmd

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Retirees Go Abroad – What a lovely pair of – Bristol

Before our Australian guests arrived in late November, Kerry was anxious that we visit Bristol and experience that city. She had gone there to see a surgeon whilst I was working back in Australia and felt compelled to return. We booked accommodation at the Mercure Hotel Brigstow Bristol in Welsh Back with parking at the parking station in Queen Charlotte St behind the hotel. Our room was very comfortable and overlooked the Canal with a view of Bristol Bridge and St Peter’s Church.

The weather was mild with a slight breeze and the trees were still losing leaves. Every now and then the sun would poke through just to check that we were okay.

I had a few ideas around what I wanted to do in Bristol but once we started walking along the canal toward Redcliffe Way most of my planning went by the way. We came across a memorial to merchant seamen just outside the hotel, then a Tudor style hotel Llandoger Trow, and then further around the canal the memorial to John Cabot.

I remembered this name from social Studies in Primary School but had no idea what controversy surrounded his exploration. Wikipedia reports“. In May 1497. John Cabot, sailing from Bristol, took the small ship Matthew along the coasts of a “New Found Land”. There is much controversy over where exactly Cabot landed, but two likely locations that are often suggested are Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Cabot and his crew mistook this place for China, without finding the passage to the east they were looking for.”

After the memorial I spotted the M Shed on the other side of the canal. This was one stop I wanted to make. Bristol has been a major maritime port (its proximity to the Americas helped) and large wharves have been turned into a museum housing England’s oldest steam tug, steam powered unlading cranes and a replica of the “SS Matthew”.

There was a “Bristol during WW1” Remembrance Day exhibition on display at the M Shed. The receptionist recognising our accent invited us to particularly look at the display on private hospitals for soldiers at that time. I have prepared a separate blog for this subject “Retirees Go Abroad –Bristol and Bishop’s Knoll”.

After visiting the M Shed we continued our walk through Millennium Square and north to Bristol Cathedral. This is another enormous Cathedral and apparently the only one in the UK to have the ceilings of its halls along the Nave at the same height as the Nave. Kerry was very taken with the stained glass. Although modern, the original having been damaged in WW2, it depicts the heroism of different branches of the  civil services during that war.

After the Cathedral we decided to continue our journey down Deanery Road and we found the Central Library. We poked in side and were surprised to find a structure made entirely out of pencils with furniture made of the same material.

Kerry was wanting to get to Clifton Village an inner suburb of Bristol so we headed to Constitution Hill and what a hill. Probably a 25% grade and 500m long but there no stopping when you are on a mission. It did not take long before we were in the Village – very pretty Victorian shops and houses – pretty pricey too I would bet. There was a pretty arcade where we had coffee and then the White Lion Hotel overlooking the Clifton Suspension Bridge. So we had drinks at the White Lion and by the time we returned to our walk the sun had set and lights were on all through the village. We decided to walk up to the Bridge and then across the Bridge before trying to find The Coronation Tap (the Cori Tap to the locals) a cider house with live entertainment. When we did find it unfortunately it did not open til 8.00pm with no food and the entertainment at 9.00pm. Too late for us.

We strolled back along the narrow streets and found a plaque to the memory of Francis Greenway Father of Australian Architecture affixed to the wall of a hotel design by Greenway presumably before he moved to Australia. The community had erected their Xmas tree and lights making the old town picturesque by night. We dined at a small Italian restaurant (no chips) and then walked back to our hotel through the lights of the modern city.

We planned a return trip through the countryside tomorrow unaware that we would discover Britain’s most complete Roman Villa.

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Retirees Go Abroad – Chedworth – grand 4th century Roman Villa

We had a traditional roast lunch at a pub in Cirencester before driving north towards Long Eaton. We were travelling on minor roads so when the sign to “a roman villa” appeared we were able to take a sharp left hand turn in the direction indicated by that sign. Although it had been wet throughout the day the rain was now easing and that damp chill for which England is famous was now hanging in the air, so any detour had better be worth it.

I know I have stated we have travelled some minor country roads but this was down to the ridiculous. And winding through country side that was last seen by the Romans – or so I thought.

But as the sign had said we finally came upon the ruins of the Chedworth Roman Villa. Discovered by a gamekeeper in 1864, the ruins were first dug to reveal the extensive walls, bath houses, and fine mosaics. In the 19th century Lord Eldon constructed a timber shelter for the most delicate remains and ran a small museum. In 1920 the Villa was purchased for the nation through public subscription. It was acquired in 1924 by the National Trust who have conducted a long-term conservation programme, with new on-site facilities and cover-buildings.

The Chedworth Roman Villa is one of the largest Roman villas in Britain. The villa was built in phases from the early 2nd century to the 4th century, with the 4th century construction transforming the building into an elite dwelling arranged around three sides of a courtyard. The 4th century building included a heated and furnished west wing containing a dining-room (triclinium) with a fine mosaic floor, as well as two separate bathing suites – one for damp-heat and one for dry-heat. It is debatable among historians whether Chedworth was indeed a farm or in fact a religious hostel, there is evidence to support both of these arguments, however most historians believe that Chedworth was a farm, owned by a very wealthy Roman.

It was located just off the Roman road known as the Fosse Way, and 8 miles (13 km) north of the important town of Corinium Dobunnorum (Cirencester). It was one of about fifty villas in the Cotswolds, and one of nine in just a 5 mile (8 km) radius. The villa was located next to a natural spring in the north west corner of the complex, which was the villa’s main source of water.

In recent times, it emerged that the Victorian efforts at conservation on the site were outdated and that the early conservation shelters weren’t providing sufficient protection. The National Trust built a new conservation wrap as well as a reception and learning facility for the archaeological site. The new £2.2m project was completed in March 2012.

 

This was a dramatic find off the beaten path and one certainly worth a visit.

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Bishops Visit – York the city of the Viking – St Leonard’s Hospice and lighting the Christmas Tree in St Helen’s Square

It started with a band, horns and drums assembling in the square around a plain fir tree. Then the school children assembled on the dais and the crowd closed in. The carols started and the crowd sang along to all the old favourites, Good King Wenslas, Silent Night, Once in Bethlehem and more. We were shivering with cold but transfixed by the joyful sight. St Leonard’s Hospice was lighting the Christmas Tree in St Helen’s Square, in the old town of York.

Then suddenly the tree was lit up to spontaneous applause and cries of Merry Xmas. This was the end of our first day in York. Filled with the spirit of Xmas we journeyed home to our hotel. We would have tomorrow to explore more.

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Bishops Visit – York the city of the Viking – Merchant Adventurers

The following day we visited The Merchant Adventurers’ Hall which is a medieval guildhall. Other such guilds still exist such as in Bristol and London, but do not have the medieval hall such as in York. The majority of the Hall was built in 1357 by a group of influential men and women who came together to form a religious fraternity called the Guild of Our Lord Jesus and the Blessed Virgin Mary. In 1430 the fraternity was granted a royal charter by King Henry VI and renamed ‘The Mistry of Mercers’. It was granted the status of the Company of Merchant Adventurers of York by Queen Elizabeth I in the sixteenth century. The main part of the building consists of the Great Hall and the undercroft, which was originally a hospital or almshouse for poor people of York.

The Great Hall is a timber-framed structure and is the largest timber-framed building in the UK still standing and used for its original purpose. The roof of the hall is of two spans supported by a row of large central timber posts. It includes complex crown posts and is held together by wooden pegs.

The undercroft, like the Great Hall, is divided in two by its supporting row of timber posts. The undercroft also provides access to an attached chapel built for the use of the ill and poor in the hospital as well as the members of the Merchant Adventurers’ Guild. It is still used for worship.

 

The Hall belongs to and is still regularly used by The Company of Merchant Adventurers of the City of York, who still exist as a charitable membership group. They have an extensive set of records, with documents dating from the 13th century and accounts dating back to 1432.

You can see more at their web site: http://www.theyorkcompany.co.uk/.

 

Lady Peckett’s Lane. Kerry loves to poke her nose into these sort of places just to see what is there.

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Bishops Visit – Bothwell Castle

After resting in Perth, we had planned to visit Scone Palace on our way to York but as is often the case this time of the year it was closed for the winter so a quick change of plan and we visited Bothwell Castle.

Historic Bothwell Castle “is a large medieval castle sited on a high, steep bank, above a bend in the River Clyde, in South Lanarkshire, Scotland. It is located between Bothwell and Uddingston, about 10 miles (16 km) south-east of Glasgow. Construction of the castle was begun in the 13th century by the ancestors of Clan Murray, to guard a strategic crossing point of the Clyde. Bothwell played a key role in Scotland’s Wars of Independence, changing hands several times.

The huge cylindrical donjon was built in the 13th century, but before the rest of the castle was completed it was severely damaged in a series of sieges. Rebuilding in the early 15th century enlarged the castle, but it was abandoned by the 18th century. The present ruin is rectangular, with the remains of the donjon to the west, and the later Great Hall to the east. The courtyard is enclosed by long curtain walls, with round towers at the south-east and south-west corners.” (source Wikipedia)

 

We had a little difficulty finding this site because of the surrounding residential development. However once you arrive it is immediately apparent that this edifice has had a tumultuous life. Parts of the former castle like the well and a watchtower – now only the footings remain, lie scattered in front of todays entrance  . Inside we met a very friendly and knowledgeable volunteer for the Scottish National Trust. We showed that we had some interest in the history and then he could not do enough for us right down to displaying for us chain mail, a two handed broad sword and the various arrow head used in the medieval period. If he had a trebuchet (early form of catapult) I am sure he would have rolled it out for us.

The main part of the remaining castle the donjon or keep was under maintenance so we could not go inside but we were able to tour around the court and our friendly custodian opened the basement so we could view a display of history cards and he told tales of the how the Scots prevented captured English Long Bow men from raising their fingers against Scotland ever again. They chopped them off (the bow fingers that is) giving a two fingered salute was how the English returned the compliment to the Scots and just as the salute is an insult today so it was in the 13th century sieges of Bothwell Castle.

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Bishops Visit – York the city of the Viking – Evensong at York Minster

After Bothwell we travelled down to York where stayed at the Hotel Noir. A descent hotel, reasonable cost, with lots of character and an easy walk to the old city. We arrived in the late afternoon and made our way by cab (we did not know how close we were at this stage) through the traffic striving to get to York Minster for the Evensong service.

Evensong is different from Vespers but I don’t know how – it appeared very similar to Vespers we participated in at Lincoln cathedral. Anyway, we gained entry to the Minster just in time to witness the choir convening outside the chapel and singing before enter the chapel for the service. No photos allowed but a certain individual did not tell me that insisting that I take the photos appearing herein. I have done my penance for this blasphemy.

The service was enjoyable with a superb male choir chanting and singing us through the service. Once the service was completed we ventured out into the old city lit up from head to toe for Xmas.

Earlier we had wandered around soaking up the history of York. The schools were running a competition for the best nativity scene and they were featured in many of the shops around the town.

Walls of the City

Before taking to the walls we journeyed through “the Shambles” and down to the river to stroll along the bank. It was too bloody cold so we retreated to a coffee shop to reconsider visiting the Walls. Fortified we proceeded with our plan.

The old city of York is partly enclosed by the city walls. On a cold autumn evening we braved the walk on the walls giving different views of the cathedral and the city beyond.

After strolling the walls we returned to the Cathedral to meet Doug and Neri where we found them trying to hail a taxi to get out of the cold and back to the hotel.

 

Bishops Visit – Castle Howard

Castle Howard is a stately home in North Yorkshire, England, 15 miles (24 km) north of York. It is a private residence, the home of the Howard family for more than 300 years. Castle Howard is not a true castle, but this term is also used for English country houses erected on the site of a former military castle. It is the fictional “Brideshead”, of  Brideshead Revisited.

 

The house is surrounded by a large estate which, at one time, covered over 13,000 acres (5,300 ha) and included the villages of Welburn, Bulmer, Slingsby, Terrington and Coneysthorpe. In 1952, the house was opened to the public by then owner, George Howard, Baron Howard of Henderskelfe. It is currently owned by his son, the Honourable Simon Howard, who grew up at the castle.

A large part of the house was destroyed by a fire which broke out on 9 November 1940. The dome, the central hall, the dining room and the state rooms on the east side were entirely destroyed as well as valuable paintings and mirrors. Some of the devastated rooms have been restored over the following decades. In 1960–61 the dome was rebuilt and in the following couple of years, the frescos on the dome was recreated. The East Wing remains a shell, although it has been restored externally. Castle Howard is one of the largest country houses in England, with a total of 145 rooms.

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Bishops Visit – York the city of the Viking – Jorvig Viking Centre and Barley Hall

The Jorvig Viking Centre is widely advertised in York as a must see. Despite its appearance as a commercial kids attraction, this is a serious historic/archaeological site and reconstruction of Viking life in York. Whilst the archaeological finds are there on display along with the work to uncover them, a ride through a reconstruction of an 890AD village is part of the experience. The ride takes you through the village at a time of change in the construction of their homes and there are real life smells sounds and visual effects. As you would expect no cameras allowed but you can see more at their web site: http://jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk/ and it is worth the visit.

After visiting the Viking Centre we made our way (with some hiccups) to the Barley Hall. Named after Professor Maurice Barley who supervised the restoration of the hall, the Hall started life in 1114AD when Henry II established an Augustinian Priory for a community of hermits. In 1540 Henry VIII closed the Priory and confiscated the property. The hall was then used for multiple purposes thereafter and gradually is covered over with later development. In 1984 the building was due for demolition to make way for a new development, When a survey of the site is done the old building is rediscover and in 1987 it was purchased by York Archaeological Trust and restored and opened to the public by 1993.

On the ground floor, Barley Hall comprises a number of rooms. The store room, used as an admissions area, contains a large quantity of original 1360 woodwork, which leads onto a second store room, now called the Steward’s room. At the heart of the building is the Great Hall, a 1430 construction, decorated on the basis of equivalents elsewhere in the city of York. The building also includes a pantry and a buttery. On the first floor is the parlour, which overlooks the hall, a gallery and several bedchambers. These rooms now form a museum of medieval life in York. Rather gruesome and interesting at the same time. To read more I suggest a visit to http://barleyhall.co.uk/.

Entry to Barley Hall
History
Great Hall
ceiling of great hall
Museum
Museum
Museum
Museum-Surgeon Barber

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Bishops Visit – France and More – Dampierre and Cognac

Kerry and I had been to Cognac previously so going back there was only intended to be a quick visit. There was no hurry this morning, no ferry to catch or traffic to avoid so we cruised through bright sunlight with clear skies with expectation that we would travel wider than just Cognac today. Tommy decided to give us the “Cook’s Tour“ and we travelled down back roads past thousands of vines all dedicated to the divine brandy called cognac.

The weather is not a trustworthy friend for as we arrived at Cognac the wind rose and the temperature dropped – I could feel the cold through my corduroy trousers and my fingers were losing sensation without the warmth of gloves. As we approached the town we caught sight of this odd house overlooking the river and the town boundary for Cognac. Cognac is situated on the river Charente between the towns of Angoulême and Saintes. The majority of the town has been built on the river’s left bank, with the smaller right bank area known as the Saint Jacques district. The town is situated on one of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostella. We parked on the banks of the River by the St Jacques Gate a remnant of its medieval past.

Flying high above us was the flag of Hennessy and the flag of Otard, two of the international distillers of Cognac located in the city (there are three other internationally known distillers in town – Camus, Remy Martin and Martell – and many lesser known brands as well). But there is more to this city than the distilleries.

We start by walking through the Gates of St Jacques along the cobbled streets to the city centre. The architecture tells a story of an old city with a variety of influences. Cognac was unknown before the 10th century and was established as a fortified town which changed hands a number of times during the 100 year war. The Chateau de Valois remains looming over the township but it is closed for visitors til next year. One of the special sights was the “Maison de la Lieutenance” the house of the Lieutenant General of Cognac from 1603 to 1624. Made of timber rather than stone and ornamented with carved figures it is unique.

Strolling on up the hill we discover a whole new Cognac. Kerry and I had gone straight to Hennessy last time we visited but there is another part to the town (particularly the old town) which we had not seen. I was sent back to the car to bring it up to the centre and on returning found the girls had found the shopping. Doug and I found St Leger Church.

As we passed through the mall I noticed that some of the citizens were more interested in modern history as shown by the graffiti of Marilyn Munroe. We made our way to the centre of the old town and found a nice coffee shop. Kerry found out the hard way that the southern French have a different idea of a cappuccino – espresso topped with whipped cream and sprinkles! We ended up overstaying our planned time and with a special dinner tonight we headed back to Dampierre. Not to be out done Tommy found even smaller roads in even remoter parts of the Charante to get home.

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